Renovating a concrete staircase yourself(?)

[ati]

I guess you meant me and all the green gunk on the steps?

Yes, both actually, the green slime will definitely disappear but maybe also the old paint/epoxy that otherwise needs to be sanded/brushed off. Makes my fingers itch just seeing the pictures

 

[nino]

I will try that, I can blow away some dirt from the bottom part that is also broken so it will be easier to repair. I need to order an A46 and do it in weekend v26 but then you know how the weather will be when you plan to work outside....

 

[ofrivillige_hantverkaren]

I have another problem and that is that the reinforcement has rusted and burst on the underside...

At first, I thought ouch... but then, from what I know, reinforcement is usually untreated iron - meaning it rusts (which is strange). You can't really use something like Hammerite on a piece Just brush and patch it up!

 

[ofrivillige_hantverkaren]

Great suggestions in the thread so far! Time to start reading up on concrete, A46, primers, and surface treatments. Something to tackle with good common sense, at least.

 

[Oxymoron]

I follow this gladly, as I myself need to look over our staircase which bothers me somewhat terribly. It looks awful with large cracks.

 

[ofrivillige_hantverkaren]

Gladly following this, as I myself need to look over our staircase that's bothering me quite a bit. Looks terrible with large cracks.

Welcome! First, I have to clean up a terrible flower bed and, of course, buy the material for the staircase - start soon

Will take pictures along the way and mention thoughts and problems I want to solve.

 

[nino]

After a session with the pressure washer


Have to chip off at least 50% maybe 70% of everything on this side and replaster, the window will also be bricked up.
The platon mat needs to be cut to the right height against the ground first

 

[nino]

What type of plaster should be used?
A friend of mine said he used Mortar B for everything; he's in the industry, so I would think he knows a bit at least.

Wondering if it should be a harder mortar since it's a base?
Maybe a little extra cement in it? I have no clue

 

[ofrivillige_hantverkaren]

Murbruk B for everything, he's in the business

Fun that the project got underway! I got stuck in the garden and will fix the roof next. The staircase will take a little longer. I remember you had a lot of knowledge about materials. If you have an acquaintance in the business, I would go with whatever he suggests is simplest.

 

[Ganescha]

I used Puts murbruk C. It was also done in the summer of 2018! Warm has held up well so far.

 

[nino]

I used mortar C. Also did it in the summer of 2018! Warm has held up well so far.

I've got the idea that one should use a hard mortar when it's outdoors and for the base, so it holds up better against damage, etc. I don't know if I heard that from someone or if it's something I came up with myself

I think I'll go with B mortar, it cost 50:-/bag at Byggmax

Well, it hasn't really taken off yet, but I've started to think about it at least

I need to replace a window with a smaller one, as seen in the last picture I uploaded, and wall up another one, so I guess I'll have to count on at least one weekend, if I can find the time

 

[Lerstenstegel]

Using B-bruk on the concrete is correct, and it's important to thoroughly prime beforehand with redgrund/primer a. However, in your case, you have leftover paint, which will make it much harder to fix on your own. Do you know if it's plastic paint or not? Paint causes uneven drying times, poor adhesion, and slippage, so you'll need to be patient when applying both the primer and during cleaning. Instead, I would use ef therm on the side with plastic mesh and then skim again with the same. It's more expensive, but it will be easier for you to get it to hold and look nice since the wall is already straight, and this product is applied with a steel trowel, and the mesh is fastened with a putty knife. If you're fixing the top of the stairs as well, only concrete products are suitable since it's a wear surface. Sto gm1 or sika 723 are good concrete products that are open; if you want water repellency, there's Sika k1.

 

[Lerstenstegel]

Two different people writing, the original poster's stairs had been repaired with sto gm1/Sika 723, then rubbed down twice with the same, resulting in a staircase that looks like new.

 

[nino]

B-bruk on the concrete is correct and it's important to apply a thorough primer beforehand with red primer/primer a. But in your case, you have paint left which will make it much harder to fix yourself, and do you know if it's plastic paint or not? Paint causes uneven drying time, poor adhesion, and slipping, so you need to have patience when applying both the primer and when you're about to scrub. Instead, I would go with ef therm on the side with plastic mesh and then float again with the same. More expensive mortar but easier for you to get it to stay and look nice since the wall is already straight and this mortar is applied with a trowel and the mesh is attached with a spatula. If you're going to fix the top of the stairs too, it's only concrete products that are suitable as it's a wear surface. Sto gm1 or sika 723 are good concrete products that are open, and if you want water repellency, Sika k1 is available

Yep, 2 different ones writing But it's me who has paint left. I will chip off most of it, the rest I will flex away or scrape off. The top side will also be renovated, preferably before winter. I will use Ardex A46 and E100 additive to repair all minor damages, then it will be STO and a name I've forgotten now, but I think I've written it in the thread; it can be tinted in any color and can include anti-slip.

 

[ofrivillige_hantverkaren]

had I repaired with sto gm1/Sika 723

Ardex A46 and E100 additive to repair all minor damages, then it will be STO

I am here - but haven't started with the stairs yet. But soon. Thanks for the tips so far!!!