Remaining deduction tracks plaster

[joakim_j]

I placed them directly in plaster, applying a little extra and tapping them into the plaster. I set 3-4 of them and then apply the plaster between the first ones and work my way forward, moving the pins one by one as I continue plastering. I also checked that all the pins align with a straight edge since I was plastering a long wall and wanted to avoid it becoming wavy in the raking light.

Moisten the pins a little when they are new, otherwise, they might absorb some moisture from the plaster and possibly come loose.

I would have done it that way too if I were a pro Maybe in a few years...

 

[joakim_j]

Bauhaus has metal screed rails that you can easily nail up and move with you as you go along.

They look identical to the ones I linked in the first post, but there they're listed as permanent...

 

[Solvskaftet]

I have used them for plastering a wall with Weber gypsum and they were not visible afterwards and no cracks. Gypsum plaster might tolerate more?

 

[xLnT]

They look identical to the ones I linked in the first post, but there they are listed as remaining...

I missed that you found them
There's nothing stopping you from removing them.
That's what we did anyway

 

[cpalm]

That seems perfect for me, since I can then weigh them in peace and not have to work against the clock while the bruk is burning.

Everything depends on how fast you are, but I wouldn't worry too much, you have quite a lot of time.

 

[joakim_j]

Missed that you found them
There's nothing saying you can't remove them.
That's what we did anyway

No, that's actually true. Then I'm starting to think that my concerns might be unfounded. The profile has holes, which I guess make it a bit like reinforcement, keeping the sides together, so to speak.

 

[joakim_j]

I have used them for plastering a wall with Weber gypsum and they weren't visible afterwards and no cracks. Gypsum plaster might tolerate more?

Gypsum plaster is probably softer than KC plaster. But it would probably work for me too. I mean, someone must have tested that it works before they start selling the product.

 

[joakim_j]

Everything depends on how fast you are, but I wouldn't worry too much, you have quite a bit of time.

Yes, I might be worrying unnecessarily, but I dislike the type of work where once you've started, there's no turning back.

But I think I'll do this: I'll test a few different methods on different walls and see what works best. I have a few small walls that end up inside storage rooms and such, so it's not so critical there. Then most of it will be tiled over anyway, so if it's not perfect, I can patch it up with some husfix or something.

 

[Needas]

A small tip if you are going to tile is these boards
https://www.tebo.se/-Nu-byter-vi-till-BACboard-vatrumsskivor/news

Easy to work with, not too expensive and perfect results.

 

[hjalle74]

Run with metal rails. Glue clicks with, for example, hot glue fast and/or screw them exactly level with each other and in plumb and level, and then polish them in... it will be 100 times better and easier with the tiling if the wall is straight and level...
You only see a narrow metal line after the polishing...

 

[joakim_j]

yes, that's probably what I'll do, at least for the first wall. But I'm tempted to try the version with screwed wooden slats as well.

 

[hjalle74]

Wooden strips are probably used most when painting on plaster because it creates a smoother surface after they've been removed and filled in, though it requires more work...

 

[mr.Ola]

And the masonite has no stability, you can see that with the ones on the floor, so it only works if you already have straight walls, which I don't have.

Barely then either.. They came loose when I attached them with plaster.

 

[cpalm]

Yes, I might be worrying unnecessarily, but I dislike that type of job where once you've started, there's no turning back.

Yes, but don't see this type of job that way. If you're not using some sort of fast product, you have several hours before it becomes difficult to remove what you've applied. If it looks a bit messy when you remove the strip, it's not the end of the world. It will be plastered over anyway.

 

[joakim_j]

Yes, but don't look at this type of job that way. If you don't use some sort of quick product, you have several hours before it becomes difficult to remove what you've applied. If it looks a bit rough when you tear off the strip, it's not the end of the world. It will be plastered over anyway.

Yes, maybe it's not as difficult as I've imagined. But it's one of those things that looks so easy when someone does it on YouTube, that it must be really hard in reality I think.

Anyway, I will probably try a bit of everything, starting with the wall section under the stairs to practice on...