Hello,
My first post...
I've searched the forum - but haven't found anything that specifically addresses this.
Setting up renovation plasterboard - and realized that only one side of the board has a "taper"/groove (i.e., the taper on the side that should face outward - and the taper in which you then screw the boards, apply tape, and then fill with joint compound)...
Why does only one side have a taper? I obviously don't want to have to create a taper myself (damaging the paper isn't a good idea, right?).
I'm now considering turning the board around and simply ignoring the tapered side - it just seems overly complicated to have to taper a plasterboard that's over 6mm thick. I was planning to just fill the joints between the boards and then apply some paint canvas (or whatever it's called) in the whole room (since the room's walls consist of a variety of materials).
Wouldn't this work?
Thoughts on this - am I completely off track?
Thank you very much in advance!
/Anton
My first post...
I've searched the forum - but haven't found anything that specifically addresses this.
Setting up renovation plasterboard - and realized that only one side of the board has a "taper"/groove (i.e., the taper on the side that should face outward - and the taper in which you then screw the boards, apply tape, and then fill with joint compound)...
Why does only one side have a taper? I obviously don't want to have to create a taper myself (damaging the paper isn't a good idea, right?).
I'm now considering turning the board around and simply ignoring the tapered side - it just seems overly complicated to have to taper a plasterboard that's over 6mm thick. I was planning to just fill the joints between the boards and then apply some paint canvas (or whatever it's called) in the whole room (since the room's walls consist of a variety of materials).
Wouldn't this work?
Thoughts on this - am I completely off track?
Thank you very much in advance!
/Anton
As mentioned, it sounds very strange if you only have a groove on one long side of the board, I've never seen such boards. You should definitely not flip the board, it is important that the board is properly aligned with the surface; with the groove, you will get a gap behind the board if the groove is facing inward.
Is it possible that your boards have been cut lengthwise so that one bevel is cut off?
Of course, it is possible to plaster even without a groove (you have to do it on the short sides), but it is much harder to make it look even.
You should use a paper tape (not fiberglass tape) in the joints and plaster over it; this is an important part of the wall's strength. If you just plaster over the joints without tape under the plaster, it will crack at the joints.
Is it possible that your boards have been cut lengthwise so that one bevel is cut off?
Of course, it is possible to plaster even without a groove (you have to do it on the short sides), but it is much harder to make it look even.
You should use a paper tape (not fiberglass tape) in the joints and plaster over it; this is an important part of the wall's strength. If you just plaster over the joints without tape under the plaster, it will crack at the joints.
Thanks for the quick response!
A "small" detail I forgot to mention is that the renovation boards are mounted on 15 mm plywood, not on studs (the plywood is attached to the studs). This is to create a more stable base and to use the plasterboards to achieve a smoother surface compared to the rest of the room's walls.
Does it matter as much then if we place the boards the "wrong" way?
One board has already been put up with the joint/tongue inward against the plywood (i.e., the wrong way) - is it OK to take down the board and put it up correctly, or is the board wasted because it already has drill holes?
Thanks again!
A "small" detail I forgot to mention is that the renovation boards are mounted on 15 mm plywood, not on studs (the plywood is attached to the studs). This is to create a more stable base and to use the plasterboards to achieve a smoother surface compared to the rest of the room's walls.
Does it matter as much then if we place the boards the "wrong" way?
One board has already been put up with the joint/tongue inward against the plywood (i.e., the wrong way) - is it OK to take down the board and put it up correctly, or is the board wasted because it already has drill holes?
Thanks again!
Thanks for all the answers - it was beginner's confusion that was haunting...
Fortunately, we installed the boards correctly from the start, i.e., with the "finished side" facing the room.
The boards weren't defective - however, the rebate wasn't as pronounced on all boards and only appeared once we started screwing them into the base. That's when the paper was pressed into place, and the rebate became visible.
I assume the rebate is more visible from the start on thicker boards?
Once again - thanks for the help!
Fortunately, we installed the boards correctly from the start, i.e., with the "finished side" facing the room.
The boards weren't defective - however, the rebate wasn't as pronounced on all boards and only appeared once we started screwing them into the base. That's when the paper was pressed into place, and the rebate became visible.
I assume the rebate is more visible from the start on thicker boards?
Once again - thanks for the help!