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25 replies
Possible to "splice" rafter?
I think so too, but the labor effort and price probably differ very little in going up to 18 instead of 12, so it feels better to over-dimension.corre said:
It is probably oversized already at 12 mm, but 18 mm or something along the way is not a problem either, then maybe one can start thinking. Having a light calculation/estimate in mind never hurts, but it's perhaps relatively uncommon. Most people look at you strangely if you get into such reasoning, no matter how rough and simple they are, best to fly under the radar there. 
Thanks for all the answers! Always nice to have a little support from BH when you venture into these unknown areas.
If the house collapses the first winter, I'll get back to you with compensation claims to everyone who replied here.... Just kidding!!! 
I think I'll go with 15 mm on both sides and one screw per dm2. As mentioned, one end will be visible, so maybe, maybe I'll use 12x2 on that end. Besides, there's a hefty limträbalk in the way there, so I'm not too worried about it holding...
I think I'll go with 15 mm on both sides and one screw per dm2. As mentioned, one end will be visible, so maybe, maybe I'll use 12x2 on that end. Besides, there's a hefty limträbalk in the way there, so I'm not too worried about it holding...
Know-It-All
· Stockholm
· 1 831 posts
Just make sure not to have a big party with 50 people jumping to Van Halen's Jump up in the loft 
I would have gone with 25mm P30 plyfa glued and screwed on both sides with coarse screws. My rafters are built with such plyfa at the top, and it's calculated by an engineer.
However, I was considering lifting the roof instead. Shouldn't it be possible to saw off the slanted roof beams in line with the horizontal beam, slide in a standing glulam beam underneath, and then stabilize the entire structure with glued and screwed P30 25mm? That way, you avoid losing ceiling height inside. The truss construction would then be modified to resemble mansard trusses.
However, I was considering lifting the roof instead. Shouldn't it be possible to saw off the slanted roof beams in line with the horizontal beam, slide in a standing glulam beam underneath, and then stabilize the entire structure with glued and screwed P30 25mm? That way, you avoid losing ceiling height inside. The truss construction would then be modified to resemble mansard trusses.
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Safe there too, the neighbors are Sören, Olle, Siv, and Eila. None of them are at an age where they could even spell One Direction. However, I should probably keep quiet about Snoddas, Hasse Kvinnaböske, and Karl-Gerhard's latest pieces.corre said:
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