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Hello,

I am going to tear down the insulation in the basement walls and plaster the walls. I have a few interior walls that connect to my köllarvägarn. I suspect there are wooden studs behind them.

Is it best to tear down about 1 meter of the interior wall and put a metal stud against the basement wall and then drywall the interior wall again? And how do you handle the junction between the interior wall (drywall) and the basement wall (plaster), in the inside corner?

Thanks
 
You might consider just having plastered walls painted with silicate paint if you have some moisture migration in the wall and uninsulated exterior walls/foundation. If you build it in again, any potential moisture migration issues and a cold foundation wall will cause condensation and perhaps the same problems again that you are trying to address now. With heart walls, you often have similar issues of them absorbing moisture from below; it's best if it can be naturally ventilated away through diffusion-open solutions like plaster and silicate paint.
 
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H Harald Blåtumme said:
You might consider just having plastered walls painted with silicate paint if you have some moisture migration in the wall and uninsulated exterior walls/foundation. If you build it in again, any moisture migration issues and cold foundation may lead to condensation and perhaps the same problems you're trying to fix now. Against heart walls, you often have similar issues as they absorb moisture from below; it's best if it can be naturally ventilated via diffusion-open solutions like plaster and silicate paint.
Yeah, but I'm going to plaster all basement walls so they can breathe. But then I have certain interior walls that divide the basement into rooms, and it's these walls I'm wondering how I should handle where they connect to the actual basement walls.
 
In what way are there problems with the current construction? I.e. studded wooden wall?
 
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O Olf Oggler said:
In what way is there a problem with the current construction? That is, outregulated wooden wall?
Don't know. But I'm planning to sell the house in two years and want as few things as possible in the inspection report. That's why I want to plaster and lay tiles in the basement. There is a plastic mat on the floor, and I think there's only a fiberboard underneath.
 
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The inner wall that I'm talking about. It's right of me to think about tearing a piece down and then putting it back with a metal stud in the basement wall, correct?
 
Ok I understand what you mean now. We have built interior walls in the basement with metal studs, OSB, and suitable panel material with an air gap around the edges. We and we... the carpenters fixed this, I don't know exactly what type of panel material was used but it was some kind of inert mineral-based material for wet rooms.
 
Yes, it is
Johan1975z said:
Don't know. But I'm planning to sell the house in two years and want as few items in the inspection report as possible. Therefore, I want to polish and lay tiles in the basement. There is a plastic mat on the floor, and I believe there's just a fiberboard underneath.
OK. I was just wondering. I myself have both raised floors and framed walls in a basement from 1972. Everywhere I've torn down, it has been dry as dust. In some places, I have actually rebuilt with wood again, but with a more open construction. Vapor retarder instead of vapor barrier, etc.
 
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H Harald Blåtumme said:
Ok I understand what you mean now. We have built inner walls in the basement with metal studs, OSB, and suitable sheet material with an air gap around the edges. We, and we... the carpenters fixed this, I don't know exactly what sheet material was used but it was some type of inert mineral-based for wet room use.
sounds extreme for an inner wall? Thinking where it is in contact with the basement wall... but maybe that's what you should do. When I rip up the floor, I let the plastic carpet remain under the inner walls so that it doesn't draw out the slab.
 
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O Olf Oggler said:
Yes, it


OK. I was just wondering. I myself have both raised floors and recessed walls in a basement from 1972. Everywhere I've torn down, it's been bone dry. In some places, I have actually rebuilt with wood again, but with a more open construction. Vapor barrier instead of vapor seal etc.
Yes, I haven't noticed anything wrong with my basement.
The floor is terribly ugly, and if you're going to change it, you might as well fix the walls, I think.
 
We had framed interior walls throughout the basement with wooden studs and insulation, true to the 70s style. Everything was torn out due to mold problems, and everything was rebuilt completely. Against exterior walls and the heart wall, now plaster and diffusion-open materials, some interior wall built with metal studs and OSB+type minerit, tiles, etc., air gaps. Has worked very well for 10 years and I believe it will continue to work for 100 years or so.
 
Even though I don't have any issues with my wood-framed constructions in the basement, I've still considered addressing it when it's time to renovate. But what really complicates things is all the radiators and radiator pipes. It's one thing to rebuild the walls. But you also have to reroute just about every pipe in the entire basement, and all the electrical wiring too, of course.
 
Inspection personnel from Anticimex and similar companies typically make notes in the report indicating that it is a risk construction, thereby disclaiming responsibility. Firred inner walls in basements are a classic in these contexts, as are raised floors in basements.

Sometimes it turns out that the risk becomes a reality as in our case, in other instances, it may just continue without problems for many years.

If the risk construction becomes a real problem, the property owner will have to pay everything out of pocket.
 
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H Harald Blåtumme said:
Inspection personnel from Anticimex and similar companies usually note in the report that it is a risk construction, thereby disclaiming responsibility. Framed interior walls in the basement are a classic in these contexts, as well as framed floors in the basement.

Sometimes the risk becomes a reality, as in our case; in other cases, it might just continue without problems for many years.

If the risk construction becomes a real problem, as a property owner, you have to pay for everything out of your own pocket.
O Olf Oggler said:
Although I don't have any problems with my wood-framed constructions in the basement, I've still considered addressing it the day it's time to renovate. But what really complicates things are all the radiators and radiator pipes. It's one thing to rebuild the walls, but you also have to reroute all the pipes in the entire basement, basically. And all the electrical work too, of course.
But it should increase the property's value to fix it if I plan to sell, right? The house is located in Gothenburg.
 
It certainly is. People are so paranoid. But if you're not going to sell, I suppose in the meantime you save a lot of energy by keeping the existing structure intact. Or? You rarely hear about that aspect when these kinds of risk constructions are removed.
 
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