If one is worried about not achieving the tolerances on the guides 100%, one could spring-load the wheels (or the sliding surfaces if that's the choice). Additionally, if one could get rubber-coated wheels, it should be possible to make the elevator fairly quiet.
Looking forward to a continuation!
Sent from my ST17i using Byggahus
Looking forward to a continuation!
Sent from my ST17i using Byggahus
Spring-load the wheels?
There we go again!
Why complicate things. It can have 1-1½ cm of sideways play without any problem whatsoever. Possibly the soup in the bowl will spill over?
Bah.
Forgot to mention that the rope is endless and you just pull the rope at the bottom. Same at the top. When the box is at the opening, you grab the box itself and pull it the last bit. The counterweight is on the endless rope, then. There are plenty of such simple elevators in southern countries.
There we go again!
Why complicate things. It can have 1-1½ cm of sideways play without any problem whatsoever. Possibly the soup in the bowl will spill over?
Bah.
Forgot to mention that the rope is endless and you just pull the rope at the bottom. Same at the top. When the box is at the opening, you grab the box itself and pull it the last bit. The counterweight is on the endless rope, then. There are plenty of such simple elevators in southern countries.
It's naturally a question of what "level of ambition" one wants to aim for. I wouldn't settle for 1 cm play if I had spent time and money to get a shaft built, but that's just me.Skalman said:
I probably wouldn't settle for having to crank up the food manually either.
Sent from my ST17i using Byggahus
Getting more and more tempted to make our own Mathiss for the bedroom so I can send breakfast up to the wife (or vice versa) and get a bit more in the good books 
Using metal L-profiles in the corners and then spring-loaded wheels at the corners. For propulsion, either set up a block and tackle system or a small electric motor with a "rope/wire reel" that replaces the block (similar to a hose reel for water hoses).
The ropes/wires are placed in the corners and then a small frame is added to redirect them so you have a central attachment point (so you don't have to squeeze in with food and the wires).
Using metal L-profiles in the corners and then spring-loaded wheels at the corners. For propulsion, either set up a block and tackle system or a small electric motor with a "rope/wire reel" that replaces the block (similar to a hose reel for water hoses).
The ropes/wires are placed in the corners and then a small frame is added to redirect them so you have a central attachment point (so you don't have to squeeze in with food and the wires).