Load-bearing wall or not? Stud wall.

[Originalet]

Have a regular wall between the bedroom and living room that I want to take down, but I'm concerned if it's load-bearing. It is a longitudinal wall in a 1 1/2-story house first floor. I see that between the wall header and the ceiling there are wooden shims made of masonite, which feels strange if it were a load-bearing wall.

It's a row house and I've checked with two neighbors, one of whom has installed a laminated beam when they took down the wall, and the other neighbor says there was neither a wall nor a laminated beam when they moved in.

So it makes one wonder, and it's also the 2.5 meters closest to the gable. How does one really find out about things like this?

 

[KnockOnWood]

It may be evident from the construction drawing, if you have one. Otherwise, you have to look at the house construction, and especially how the roof trusses are built. Frame trusses should normally have support in the middle, especially if the "attic floor" is furnished.

Then I make a different interpretation than you regarding the masonite pieces. I see it as wedged to support the underframes of the trusses and the intermediate beams, which make up the floor structure between the lower and upper floors.

That a neighbor has installed a glulam beam also supports this.

 

[Originalet]

Unfortunately, I don't have such a drawing, trying to get in touch with the municipality about this but haven't succeeded yet. It is framework trusses with a furnished upper floor and an attic above this. The floor between the floors is about 30cm thick and above this wall, there is only a thin wall of 45x45 studs. I'll continue trying to get in touch with the municipality anyway, because they usually have construction drawings if I understand correctly?

 

[KnockOnWood]

Why not ask the neighbors a little bit.
Those with the glulam beam: Why do you have one?
Those without: doesn't the floor upstairs get wobbly?
Maybe one of the neighbors has blueprints.

And try jumping up and down on the upper floor at the neighbor's without the beam

 

[Originalet]

Got hold of the municipality and it's load-bearing. However, someone may have opted out of the wall when the house was built, and reinforcement was done in the ceiling, as I understood it. But one should be able to make openings between some studs maybe and install two narrow windows. That shouldn't be a problem, right? I want to get more light from one room to the other.

 

[KnockOnWood]

Inserting a beam over 2.5 m sounds manageable to me.
It probably doesn't need to be very advanced for such a short distance.

Guess (but just a guess!) you might be fine with a standard 220 x 45 C24.

 

[Originalet]

But the thing is, I don't want it completely open, I initially thought I would put a trellis instead of the wall rather. The opening would otherwise be 3.5m since it's the wall plus a door currently.

However, I'm wondering if my first idea is feasible to make it as simple for myself as possible.
1 Remove the plasterboard on both sides
2 Place new 95mm studs between the existing ones lying on the floor and ceiling. With a 100mm gap as a trellis and simultaneously remove the existing 70 studs as they become in the way.
3 Place blocks between each vertical stud to hide nails and the horizontal studs
4 Spackle and paint everything

Then the wall never loses its load-bearing capacity if I'm thinking correctly. Does this sound like a reasonable idea?

 

[KnockOnWood]

...
Then the wall never loses its load-bearing capacity if I'm thinking right. Does this seem like a sensible idea, you think?

Absolutely sensible!
But I would like to have a "block" between the studs halfway up as well, at about 1.25 m height.
What is usually called kortling.
To serve the function that the panels of the demolished wall had, namely to brace the studs so they don't bend out in the direction of the old wall, in the direction where the studs are only 45 mm thick.