Hello,
We have had glass blocks replaced with real windows, which meant the craftsman had to saw and lay some mortar. This was done 2 weeks ago and it should now be ready to paint (Silicate paint) on, but I am hesitant as the surface is quite rough. Shouldn't it be brushed/washed first in some way?
Here is how it looks:
More pictures and higher resolution here: http://imgur.com/a/B6FcR
How do you handle holes here? Is regular coarse filler the way to go?
Additional holes but here towards the actual window frame.
We have had glass blocks replaced with real windows, which meant the craftsman had to saw and lay some mortar. This was done 2 weeks ago and it should now be ready to paint (Silicate paint) on, but I am hesitant as the surface is quite rough. Shouldn't it be brushed/washed first in some way?
Here is how it looks:
More pictures and higher resolution here: http://imgur.com/a/B6FcR
How do you handle holes here? Is regular coarse filler the way to go?
Additional holes but here towards the actual window frame.
If it has been in the heat, it should have burned off completely. I plastered a wall last summer, and it was ready for painting after a week. Maybe you can smooth out the rough spots with a wire brush? I had a few small spots that I touched up with wet room filler, a tip from a mason. If the plastered area against all odds still releases moisture, the paint will blister, but it will revert back.
Steel scraper tends to tear away what it shouldn't, in my opinion. A putty knife backward on the edge can do the job if the plaster isn't too hard.
A bit of acrylic sealant on the edge and smoothing with putty/filler against the old before painting will probably work wonders. Otherwise, you'll have a visible transition.
Regarding the time to cure, it's sufficient on such small surfaces.
A bit of acrylic sealant on the edge and smoothing with putty/filler against the old before painting will probably work wonders. Otherwise, you'll have a visible transition.
Regarding the time to cure, it's sufficient on such small surfaces.
I tried using a punch on the exterior mortar and quite a bit of sand falls off in some places, see here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ccAImlpvcU&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cL1Ap1jxz4o&feature=youtu.be
So using a wire brush doesn't sound so good. I will try a filler, but do you mean I should drag it in the opposite direction so it "cuts" more?
Why do I need acrylic sealant on the edge?
What I have at home is Beckers Grov spackel in a tube and Tec7 but I assume you want it to breathe a little since it's a basement. So Beckers Grov is the one I'm thinking of choosing since it probably matches the rest of the wall when painted.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cL1Ap1jxz4o&feature=youtu.be
So using a wire brush doesn't sound so good. I will try a filler, but do you mean I should drag it in the opposite direction so it "cuts" more?
Why do I need acrylic sealant on the edge?
What I have at home is Beckers Grov spackel in a tube and Tec7 but I assume you want it to breathe a little since it's a basement. So Beckers Grov is the one I'm thinking of choosing since it probably matches the rest of the wall when painted.
It becomes wavier and wavier if you scrape with a narrow tool in the direction you see (same goes for a wire brush).
Cutting away small irregularities in loose plaster backwards with a putty knife works well for me.
But in your case, you should almost start by applying a little putty. If it becomes too smooth, it can also be fixed.
Cutting away small irregularities in loose plaster backwards with a putty knife works well for me.
But in your case, you should almost start by applying a little putty. If it becomes too smooth, it can also be fixed.
Worked excellently to run backwards with the putty knife! After that, I rubbed over the surface with my hand and finally vacuumed, which made the surface almost completely clean from gravel.
I have now also puttyed with Beckers coarse filler but see that the wall has a clearly rougher texture, I guess I'll have to live with that. I also had to even out a bit as the mason left some bumps, but it turned out okay.
Today, I hope to be able to paint it with silicate paint, as I understand it, 2 layers are required.
I have now also puttyed with Beckers coarse filler but see that the wall has a clearly rougher texture, I guess I'll have to live with that. I also had to even out a bit as the mason left some bumps, but it turned out okay.
Today, I hope to be able to paint it with silicate paint, as I understand it, 2 layers are required.
I don't think silicate and filler is a great combination, it might be worth checking that out. If the rest is painted with silicate, there's no point in starting with it now.snowjim said:
Hmm, didn't consider that, but in this case, very little filler has actually been used. The rest of the walls are painted with silicate paint, so it feels strange to use something else around the windows.Stefan N said:
But sure, if the silicate paint reacts negatively in a chemical way to the filler, that's not great, though I can't find any concrete information on that.
I understand that you should use special filler if you're going to fill walls in the basement, but there we're talking about large areas, like full wall coverage. I guess it has to do with breathability. In this case, it’s small areas around the windows, so it shouldn't significantly affect breathability.