not any purposePolos said:
According to the manual: "Acoustic sealing is the same as creating an airtight construction." ... "For sound class 40-65 dB, additional soundproofing is required either by supplementing with Gyproc G 55 Sealant"...Polos said:
The acoustic sealant is for sound, yes.Polos said:
Here's what it says in the "manual":
Whether it makes a difference, I don't know, I feel a bit skeptical too. However, I accept that the walls should not be touching each other because sound then propagates more easily. But sure, you don't want empty space, so some form of soft sealant is probably good.
I have now added screws at 20 cm intervals, mixing long and short screws depending on with or without studs. Most screws are in studs.
I have removed the screws that were along the VP tubes and instead reinforced around them. The seam flexes, but since we will have refrigeration there, that wall will never be worked on.
Turns out Julas T-square 120 was completely off when compared to Hultafors, had to return it and buy from Harald Nyborg, which was clearly better. Unfortunately, we've already measured most of the tiles. Interestingly, someone else was also returning their T-joint at Jula at the same time. Never again Julas own products!
Managed to put up 3 more plates today, we’ll see how much we can do tomorrow. However, it can be said that we greatly underestimated the time it would take to install OSB and gypsum. We aimed for 2 days but it looks more like 6-7
But then again, we're not used to construction work.
I have removed the screws that were along the VP tubes and instead reinforced around them. The seam flexes, but since we will have refrigeration there, that wall will never be worked on.
Turns out Julas T-square 120 was completely off when compared to Hultafors, had to return it and buy from Harald Nyborg, which was clearly better. Unfortunately, we've already measured most of the tiles. Interestingly, someone else was also returning their T-joint at Jula at the same time. Never again Julas own products!
Managed to put up 3 more plates today, we’ll see how much we can do tomorrow. However, it can be said that we greatly underestimated the time it would take to install OSB and gypsum. We aimed for 2 days but it looks more like 6-7
But then again, we're not used to construction work.
Agree, I have 17 mm raw plank instead of OSB so the magnet will be even further away.Johan Gunverth said:
I have now put up all the drywall!! 😅 However, there is one thing that worries me, the outer wall is, as you know, covered with plastic and therefore doesn't have wind barrier paper. Now that I've put up the drywall, I stuck to the 20 cm rule but varied screw lengths between 30 and 40 mm depending on if I'm attaching to a stud or just OSB. This means I have perforated the plastic quite a bit. In the studs, it shouldn't be a problem, but in just OSB there will likely be leakage. Leakage is one thing, the screws might help with that a bit, but then there is moisture that the plastic is supposed to stop. Can the drywall screws rust because of this?
but it doesn't make any difference in this wallcpalm said:
too many points in the regulation that would need to be redone.snowjim said:
I was thinking of doing as you describe here to avoid the hassle of jointing corners. I've put up 11 mm OSB on the walls and assume that it's thick enough not to worry about hitting the studs when screwing up the gypsum boards?slacker said:
Question, I did as you described and divided the gypsum boards that ended up against the inner corners to avoid plastering the corners. However, I watched some videos on YouTube where they still apply paper tape and plaster. Is it necessary when done as you described, or can you just run a bead of caulk between the gypsum boards?