I have found a lot about installation layers on exterior walls in the forum but never my variant. I am finishing building garage walls and have insulated with 45mm, 95mm, and then construction plastic on that. Then I have OSB boards and drywall. However, these only create a depth of about 25mm if you want to screw things onto the wall without breaking the plastic. What can be done then? The thing is that the electrical wiring has already been run through the studs and goes in the 95mm insulation layer inside the plastic. So all electrical boxes are adapted for only OSB and drywall. If I put 45mm studs on top of the plastic to create a cavity, the electrical outlets will be far inside the wall. Can someone visualize what I mean? What is the idea, do you think? Is it unwise to just go with OSB and drywall?
It's a garage. I don't care about the installation layer in my garage. I'm going to screw things into the studs and use surface-mounted boards. Depends a bit on how particular you are about the appearance.
If you want to be meticulous, tape around boxes and penetrations. There are good descriptions online on how to tape. But you should generally take many small pieces of tape around a penetration.
If you want to be meticulous, tape around boxes and penetrations. There are good descriptions online on how to tape. But you should generally take many small pieces of tape around a penetration.
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Ah, it's exactly these kinds of simple tips one wants. It seems very smart as you mention to use external boards and aim for the studs! Thank you so much.OXYD said:
By the way, should the seam between the OSB boards be at the same place as the seams for the gypsum boards, or should one "spread" the seams, so to speak?
Do you have a link? I've found it difficult to find decent pages about taping.
The seams are normally offset by half a panel width.
You can mark that, for example, on the floor or ceiling. Whether you use OSB+gypsum or plywood+gypsum doesn't matter either since the wood panel carries all the load anyway. Of course, you should screw into the studs if you're going to mount something really heavy, but for ordinary shelves, etc., the grip in OSB or plywood is sufficient.
Once the wall is fully spackled and painted, you won't know where the studs are. If you absolutely need to know, some form of more permanent marking is suitable. Or a map.
Once the wall is fully spackled and painted, you won't know where the studs are. If you absolutely need to know, some form of more permanent marking is suitable. Or a map.
cc 60 cm?
If you want to be completely accurate, start from a specific corner in each wall and measure, to the millimeter, where the center of each stud is from the corner. Sketch and write it down on a paper that can be saved in an appropriate place.
Isn't it simpler and cheaper to use double plasterboard since you don't want to nail/screw anywhere other than where the studs are to avoid puncturing the vapor barrier?
(While you're at it, it might also be good to measure at what height, and where, the electrical cables run through the studs so you don't risk putting a 6-inch nail in the wrong place...)
If you want to be completely accurate, start from a specific corner in each wall and measure, to the millimeter, where the center of each stud is from the corner. Sketch and write it down on a paper that can be saved in an appropriate place.
Isn't it simpler and cheaper to use double plasterboard since you don't want to nail/screw anywhere other than where the studs are to avoid puncturing the vapor barrier?
(While you're at it, it might also be good to measure at what height, and where, the electrical cables run through the studs so you don't risk putting a 6-inch nail in the wrong place...)
Regarding electrical boxes, mine also ended up behind the plastic. Of course, there was a hole in the plastic where sockets and switches were supposed to sit. I didn't tape and didn't notice any damage when I opened the wall after 5 years. I didn't have the elements on, though. So to speak, it was a cold garage during that time.
Are you planning to have heating in the garage or not?
Are you planning to have heating in the garage or not?
One more thing:
I had gibs on the walls before the first garage renovation, but they absorbed all the moisture that came in with the car and ran on the floor, so I removed them and installed råspånt instead.
I mean, gibs is very sensitive in a garage.
I had gibs on the walls before the first garage renovation, but they absorbed all the moisture that came in with the car and ran on the floor, so I removed them and installed råspånt instead.
I mean, gibs is very sensitive in a garage.
I only have OSB on my walls. I don't know how approved it is with insurances, Länsförsäkringar responded really vaguely.
Aha okay, that's something to think about too. Just assumed plasterboard was good. Maybe you can go with double OSB perhaps? Slap some paint on it? Or one OSB and one chipboard maybe?Lars48 said:
I think I'll just use maintenance heat because there's a gap under the garage door for example where cold air comes in, so it would be a bit of a waste of heat/energy to maintain room temperature. I'm thinking of some kind of fan heater maybe. After all, it's 50 sqm actually.
Considering the double insulation you have, very little heat is needed to keep it somewhat warm. A few oil heaters will do just fine. Chipboard and paint look nice. However, I have a fondness for wood and paneling. It's a matter of taste, really.Fibonacci said:
You need a little ventilation 😁
Otherwise, buy a skirt seal/bellows seal
Otherwise, buy a skirt seal/bellows seal