Planning to lower the ceiling in the kitchen to install new wiring and spotlights, possibly speakers. I'm considering using Huntonit boards and first cross-bracing the existing ceiling joists, then crisscrossing with joists to simplify the wiring (to avoid cutting holes in joists where wiring needs to run).
I prefer not to lower more than 45-50mm plus board thickness and spoke with a friend who said that 22x95 slatting should work, but I haven't been able to find these dimensions. Do they even exist? I've found 28x70 and 28x95 which add an extra 12 mm, which I'd rather avoid.
I prefer not to lower more than 45-50mm plus board thickness and spoke with a friend who said that 22x95 slatting should work, but I haven't been able to find these dimensions. Do they even exist? I've found 28x70 and 28x95 which add an extra 12 mm, which I'd rather avoid.
Dimension 22 or 21 is often called facade board at some building suppliers. I think I have seen that dimension at both byggmax, bauhaus, etc.
28mm thickness is usually used as battens, partly because that dimension holds better for the screws, with less risk of splitting.
28mm thickness is usually used as battens, partly because that dimension holds better for the screws, with less risk of splitting.
So-called råspont, which can be excellently used as glespanel, is usually 21 or 22 mm thick.
So indeed there are 22 x 95 boards available at a low price.
Note: råspont is also available in 17 mm thickness, and that might be too thin for you.
Råspont is thus what is commonly used for laying under-roofs, known as taksvall.
So indeed there are 22 x 95 boards available at a low price.
Note: råspont is also available in 17 mm thickness, and that might be too thin for you.
Råspont is thus what is commonly used for laying under-roofs, known as taksvall.
If you have sufficiently close spacing (<=300mm), you can space with criss-crossed 21 mm outer panels. It only builds 42 mm + any shimming. It actually works really well. I've done it myself over gypsum ceilings and never had a crack appear. You avoid all the drilling for VP pipes and such since it creates accessible compartments in both directions. Just don't think about increasing the spacing, that will lead to flexing 
Thank you everyone who responded!
It's probably not the end of the world to go with 28mm and have a 12mm lower ceiling, but I wanted to check before I start!
Did you use ~CC300mm in both directions?MagHam said:If you have a tight enough spacing (<=300mm) you can use cross-laid 21 mm outer paneling. It only adds 42 mm + any shimming.
It actually turns out quite well. I’ve done it myself over gypsum ceilings and never had a crack appear.
You avoid all the hole drilling for conduit pipes and such as you get accessible compartments in both directions.
Just don’t even think about increasing the spacing, then it will sag
It's probably not the end of the world to go with 28mm and have a 12mm lower ceiling, but I wanted to check before I start!
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· Etelä Pohjanmaa
· 2 467 posts
how about regular boards 22x100 maybe? The cheapest available at the lumber yard.
Yes, I used regular drywall, but if you go down in thickness like that, over CC300 it becomes quite flexible.FreddanKba said:
You were going to use Huntonit, which I haven't worked with, so I don't know how stiff and heavy it is by itself.
I have now obtained 22x95 sparse panels from XL Bygg and am considering how to proceed when installing them...
I am planning to install in two layers, cross-laid, to simplify the installation of electrical wiring, etc.
I have two options:
Option 1: Install the first layer of sparse panel across the joists (but along the current tongue-and-groove ceiling boards) and the next layer across this. This means I would install the ceiling boards (Huntonit 600x1200) across the sparse panel.
Option 2: Install the first layer of sparse panel along the joists (and hope these are straight enough to screw into) and the next layer across this, which means the ceiling boards can be installed along the sparse panel. The joists should be CC 600, but I'm not entirely confident in this; there could be a few cm variations here and there. Additionally, I plan to install the first layer of sparse panel at CC 300, so every other row would only attach to the chipboard ceiling (or at best to the sparse board it's attached to if I manage to hit these).
How have/would you do it? According to the installation instructions for Huntonit, it should be OK to secure across the sparse panel as long as the joints on the short sides rest against the sparse panel and can be nailed/screwed. (Unless this only applies to the narrower 300mm boards... I have emailed the manufacturer and am awaiting a response)
I am planning to install in two layers, cross-laid, to simplify the installation of electrical wiring, etc.
I have two options:
Option 1: Install the first layer of sparse panel across the joists (but along the current tongue-and-groove ceiling boards) and the next layer across this. This means I would install the ceiling boards (Huntonit 600x1200) across the sparse panel.
Option 2: Install the first layer of sparse panel along the joists (and hope these are straight enough to screw into) and the next layer across this, which means the ceiling boards can be installed along the sparse panel. The joists should be CC 600, but I'm not entirely confident in this; there could be a few cm variations here and there. Additionally, I plan to install the first layer of sparse panel at CC 300, so every other row would only attach to the chipboard ceiling (or at best to the sparse board it's attached to if I manage to hit these).
How have/would you do it? According to the installation instructions for Huntonit, it should be OK to secure across the sparse panel as long as the joints on the short sides rest against the sparse panel and can be nailed/screwed. (Unless this only applies to the narrower 300mm boards... I have emailed the manufacturer and am awaiting a response)
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After reading further on the forum, I now have a third option! https://www.byggahus.se/forum/tak-vind/274193-glespanel-pa-glespanel-c-c.html
Option 3. Skip the cross-laid gles panel and instead place a 22 mm block at each attachment point to make it easy to run cables for spotlights, speakers, and other needs. However, unsure if this might have any disadvantages compared to cross-laying the gles...
It's frustrating to surf around the forum; when you're sure you have a plan, you always find someone with other ideas that seem sensible, and then you have to begin wavering over how to solve it again... Always nice to get some feedback and brainstorm with you all, so I appreciate everyone who takes the time to read and respond
Option 3. Skip the cross-laid gles panel and instead place a 22 mm block at each attachment point to make it easy to run cables for spotlights, speakers, and other needs. However, unsure if this might have any disadvantages compared to cross-laying the gles...
It's frustrating to surf around the forum; when you're sure you have a plan, you always find someone with other ideas that seem sensible, and then you have to begin wavering over how to solve it again...
Always nice to get some feedback and brainstorm with you all, so I appreciate everyone who takes the time to read and respond