If you're going to put up a partition wall between two children's rooms, full soundproofing might not be necessary. The wall that faces room three, where I assume the doors will be located, can be made a bit thicker. We divided a large room into a bedroom + living room with a thin nail stud + 13 mm particle board on each side. However, we had a clad steel beam to attach to on one side + low ceiling height. No soundproofing material in between. Quite flimsy and probably doesn't hold up well if you tackle a friend into the wall. With our construction, it's only possible to install a sliding door.
If you really want soundproofing, then (in addition to the usual) contact an acoustics firm.
If you really want soundproofing, then (in addition to the usual) contact an acoustics firm.
Saw a construction where they had put bitumen in the wall, something like this:
http://biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Bil-tillbehor/Ljudisolering/Damppapp-Bitumen/
I don't know how effective it is, either damping/kr or damping/mm, but it's quite heavy and stable so it should be somewhat useful, I think.
http://biltema.se/sv/Bil---MC/Bil-tillbehor/Ljudisolering/Damppapp-Bitumen/
I don't know how effective it is, either damping/kr or damping/mm, but it's quite heavy and stable so it should be somewhat useful, I think.
Thank you for all the tips! I will check out everything you have suggested and update my CAD drawing.
On Wednesday we gain access, then I will again measure the rooms and start CAD-ing. I will carefully check out the soundproofing materials. I will get back to you!
On Wednesday we gain access, then I will again measure the rooms and start CAD-ing. I will carefully check out the soundproofing materials. I will get back to you!
I'm a bit curious about how it went, how you possibly solved it? I'm facing a similar situation myself, so I'm bringing the thread back to life instead of starting a new one.
We are going to divide a room into two, and a section of the angled wall that we need to erect should be thinner than standard studs + single drywall. However, there will be no door in this wall section, but we want to be able to attach, for example, small wall shelves.
What about length expansion if you choose raw boards or plywood? I'm thinking that if the wall is constructed so that the core is in contact with both the floor and ceiling (the ceiling is in this case a paneled board), is there a risk that the whole thing will bend if the core expands in length with climate changes?
We are going to divide a room into two, and a section of the angled wall that we need to erect should be thinner than standard studs + single drywall. However, there will be no door in this wall section, but we want to be able to attach, for example, small wall shelves.
Would raw boards be preferable to using some stiffer board (formplywood?) as the core of the wall? Cost & construction time are of lesser importance in our case since it's a short wall section. Which would be the stiffest if the core can be around 22 mm thick?myrstack said:
What about length expansion if you choose raw boards or plywood? I'm thinking that if the wall is constructed so that the core is in contact with both the floor and ceiling (the ceiling is in this case a paneled board), is there a risk that the whole thing will bend if the core expands in length with climate changes?
Shouldn't it become relatively sturdy if you use 22mm MDF or plywood boards, then screw-glue plasterboard on each side, biscuit join the boards, and lay the plasterboard with staggered seams?
The question is whether it's worth the hassle to deviate so much from the 50mm norms.
The question is whether it's worth the hassle to deviate so much from the 50mm norms.
@PerBad: OK, I hope you don't mind me borrowing the thread 
@MagnusSt: Thanks for the tips regarding screw gluing & offsetting.
Regarding the value of 'offsetting for 50mm', it depends on the circumstances, doesn't it? In our case, it is worth a lot, since the wall thickness, along with the existing and naturally not so easily moved exterior wall positions, as well as a window, determine whether we get an alcove for a full-sized bed or not. Which in turn determines whether we get two usable bedrooms that work for the children as they grow older, or if in a few years we have to make some other renovation or extension. So yes, it's worth it...
Leaving aside the evaluation and focusing on the construction techniques: I welcome further comments & tips on how to best implement it. For example, if anyone knows how it might be with potential length expansion?
@MagnusSt: Thanks for the tips regarding screw gluing & offsetting.
Regarding the value of 'offsetting for 50mm', it depends on the circumstances, doesn't it? In our case, it is worth a lot, since the wall thickness, along with the existing and naturally not so easily moved exterior wall positions, as well as a window, determine whether we get an alcove for a full-sized bed or not. Which in turn determines whether we get two usable bedrooms that work for the children as they grow older, or if in a few years we have to make some other renovation or extension. So yes, it's worth it...
Leaving aside the evaluation and focusing on the construction techniques: I welcome further comments & tips on how to best implement it. For example, if anyone knows how it might be with potential length expansion?
Why not make standing wall studs from 15x15x1.5mm square tubes that you screw into the floor and ceiling, 15mm k-plyfa between the studs and lastly screw-glue 6mm renovation plaster on the outside. It should handle both kitchen weight, climbing wall or whatever might be needed. Total thickness 27mm. The biggest problem in this case should be finding sufficiently short screws that can handle possible weights
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