41,906 views ·
26 replies
42k views
26 replies
How to build the thinnest possible interior wall?
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Hello!
I have two relatively large rooms that I want to convert into three. That is, I need to remove one wall and build two new ones.
The goal is to make these walls as thin as possible, while still achieving as good sound insulation as possible.
That is, I want to avoid 1dm insulation, etc.
Wondering if there's a good sound insulating material to use? Acoustic panels?
I realize that with standard solutions, the wall becomes thick, need new ideas!
//Per
I have two relatively large rooms that I want to convert into three. That is, I need to remove one wall and build two new ones.
The goal is to make these walls as thin as possible, while still achieving as good sound insulation as possible.
That is, I want to avoid 1dm insulation, etc.
Wondering if there's a good sound insulating material to use? Acoustic panels?
I realize that with standard solutions, the wall becomes thick, need new ideas!
//Per
Hello!
Yes, that's the solution I've been considering. But every cm is important! A plasterboard is about 1 cm thick, so then you're up to 45+2*10+2*10=85 mm.
I've been wishfully thinking that one could get it thinner than that...
Yes, that's the solution I've been considering. But every cm is important! A plasterboard is about 1 cm thick, so then you're up to 45+2*10+2*10=85 mm.
I've been wishfully thinking that one could get it thinner than that...
If you're going to build a wooden wall, I think it will be difficult to achieve the rigidity with less than 45mm.
You might consider building the wall out of metal, welding or bolting it together.
However, regardless, it will be a problem when you mount doors, as the frame is 95mm.
You might consider building the wall out of metal, welding or bolting it together.
However, regardless, it will be a problem when you mount doors, as the frame is 95mm.
A drywall is 13mm so with a single drywall and 45 stud, you end up at 71mm and double drywall at 97mm. Thinner than 45 I wouldn't dare to build, it might feel like a wobbly wall, it seems :|PerBad said:
Hi!
There should not be a door in the wall.
I assume it's 45 and single gypsum that's required then...
I was planning to use aluminum profiles and adjust the CC to get as stable a construction as possible.
I'm willing to pay well for a decent solution, so I feel that I don't have to stick to standard sizes just because that's what's available in the building store.
I've also thought about incorporating acoustic panels that are typically mounted in ceilings. I've also considered some type of truss construction covered with sound-absorbing material...
As you can understand, I'm grasping at straws a bit. The new rooms will now be 2.3-2.4 m wide, which isn't much if both a bed and a desk need to fit. :/
//Per
There should not be a door in the wall.
I assume it's 45 and single gypsum that's required then...
I was planning to use aluminum profiles and adjust the CC to get as stable a construction as possible.
I'm willing to pay well for a decent solution, so I feel that I don't have to stick to standard sizes just because that's what's available in the building store.
I've also thought about incorporating acoustic panels that are typically mounted in ceilings. I've also considered some type of truss construction covered with sound-absorbing material...
As you can understand, I'm grasping at straws a bit. The new rooms will now be 2.3-2.4 m wide, which isn't much if both a bed and a desk need to fit. :/
//Per
What do you mean? I didn't quite follow!Tiger79 said:
The insulation in the wall: there are different types of insulation where the thermal insulation is specified. I'm not looking for thermal insulation. Are there measurements for sound insulation as well?
I built like this, ceiling height 2700.
studs 32 c/c 300, glued and screwed noggings approximately 400 in height
glued and screwed plywood 10mm on each side
glued and screwed drywall on each side
became very stiff.
that's how I did it....
studs 32 c/c 300, glued and screwed noggings approximately 400 in height
glued and screwed plywood 10mm on each side
glued and screwed drywall on each side
became very stiff.
that's how I did it....
with reasonable ceiling height (<2500), use steel tracks on the ceiling and then steel wall studs 45X45 (e.g., NORGIPS WALL PROFILE 45X45) at cc-300 and then single drywall gives 45 + (2 * 13) = 71mm. A bit trickier to insulate, but you need to cut out strips. Using 1200mm wide drywall will be more stable than 900, even if it's more challenging to install.
If you think really creatively, and you want it thin and relatively rigid, you could always build the wall from standing råspont with a layer of drywall on each side, which gives you a 21 + (2 * 13) = 47mm thick wall. It won't be quick to build but will be similar to an old plank wall.
Sounds interesting!robbansson said:
If I've counted correctly, the thickness should be about 75 mm?
How do you find the sound insulation? Is it acceptable?
//Per
If you do kottling, it is manageable on cc-300 and the kottling fortunately adds thickness as they are placed between the studs. However, it does take some planning to get the kottling in the right place beforehand, which you avoid with OSB/plywood/chipboard behind, where it's just a matter of slapping up the cabinets afterward.dirrekok said: