Hello!

I'm working on a garage where I will have what's called horizontal fjällpanel on the outside. I am wondering how each plank is intended to be attached. I can think of two ways:

1) Just one nail in the groove, neat since no nails are visible, but likely a risk of being a bit "fluttery".

2) Two nails on the outside of the plank that are visible but significantly better fastening.

Below is a picture where I show my two options I can think of:
http://sqflqq.blu.livefilestore.com...lCDEhzyR-ygL5vUTsNMpg7KL4oUhP0/panel_spik.gif

Grateful for comments.

Regards,
Fredrik
 
Nail firmly, with at least two nails so that the board cannot bend/warp when moisture and drying movements occur.

But surely the shingles should be positioned so that the water runs off the shingles and not into the groove?
 
Oh!

Thanks for your quick response!

Do you mean that I'm about to install the panel upside down?

Regards,
Fredrik
 
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Hammaren79
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Yes. Turn them over and have the "narrow" end facing upwards and place the fold over it.
 
Almost right. :)
You've installed the panel backward. Nail from the other side, the sawn side should be facing out.
 
Check out this picture:
 
  • Illustration of yellow wooden siding with overlapping panels.
Hello!

Oh, I really thought the planed side was supposed to be outward?
Feels a bit nicer than the sawn one. What is the function?
It also feels like the planed side provides better resistance to moisture.
It would be interesting to know why!

Lucky I haven't nailed it up yet if it matters!!!

Regards,
Fredrik
 
Oh!
Yes, that picture really shows how it should look!
But why is the other side planed so nicely??

Best regards,
Fredrik
 
I don't know the difference between planed and sawn sides, maybe someone else can answer that... perhaps the paint adheres better to the sawn side, or it could be that in the manufacturing process one side ends up sawn and the other planed.
In any case, it should be positioned so that water cannot enter the wood but runs off outside.

/ Jocke

edit: By manufacturing, I mean that in the final step, you might have to plane to achieve the slanted surface. Maybe???
 
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Hello!

I think you are right!

Without planing, you don't get the slanted wedge shape. The plank is rectangular from the start.
Additionally, this gives a straight inside.

I don’t understand how I could think otherwise??
Moreover, I thought the surface was damn nice.

Thanks for all the answers!

Fredrik
 
fredand44 said:
Hello!

Oh, I really thought the planed side should be outward?
Feels a bit nicer than the sawn one. What is the function?
It also feels like the planed side provides better resistance to moisture.
It would be interesting to know why!

Luckily, I haven't nailed it up yet, if it matters!!!

Best regards,
Fredrik
The rough sawn surface is better for most paints designed for facades to adhere to. This is typically the case for facade timber, especially if you are going to use a traditional linseed paint (e.g., Faluröd).

Without knowing for sure, I guess that planing is just a way for the sawmill to ensure dimensions in a more reliable way than sawing. All building regulation timber is also planed, and it's hardly because the surface needs to be aesthetically pleasing, but rather to make the dimensions as precise as possible.
 
Hello!

Thank you for your reply!

I will be painting with lasyr, so I hope it works on the sawn side.

Best regards,
Fredrik
 
Glaze works perfectly on the sawn side, just like all other paints. The planed side simply absorbs the paint too poorly.

/Joflopp - in a cabin with mountain paneling and opaque glaze. :)
 
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oscar_uppsala
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That could have gone badly...
The planing is to achieve the correct accuracy on the dimension.
In fact, it's first planed to the right size, then it's cut diagonally to get the shape right.
It's the most difficult panel to produce since normally you cut first and then plane.
 
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