The horizontal panel cannot be load-bearing in any way. Pry off a few boards and look to see what it's like behind.
 
Hello!

I just bought my first house (built in 1942) with an extension made in 2002. The house is a split-level house, and the "basement part" of the extension was never completed. I now plan to install floors, ceilings, and walls.

I have attached two pictures showing how part of the basement has plywood with insulation behind it, while other areas are bare "building blocks." There is also waterborne underfloor heating.

I want to install drywall but understand that an air gap is needed. I have a few questions about this.

1. When you say air gap, is a 3-5 cm air gap really enough? Or do you need both an inlet and outlet for this space? I'm thinking that moisture will remain without ventilation in this space?

2. Did the previous owners do it correctly? They seem to have insulated directly against the masonry blocks and then covered it with plywood. There might be an air gap behind the insulation (I haven't opened it up fully to check yet). But at the same time, it has been like this for over 20 years, and nothing seems to have happened.

3. I have also read about foam board insulation (XPS or EPS) where you actually place it directly against the exterior wall. Thoughts on this?

Grateful for advice. I plan to take it slowly and methodically, with limited experience in this.
 
  • Basement room with plywood walls, suitcases, a clothes rack with jackets, a skateboard, and shelving with boxes and a hanging light bulb.
  • Basement with exposed concrete block walls, storage shelves, assorted boxes, and visible pipes on the ceiling, illuminated by a single bulb.
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Otherwise, you polish the duväggen and then paint.
 
D D_Anders said:
Otherwise, you plaster the wall and then paint.
Should it be a special plaster then (non-organic)?

I also found this solution:

XPS directly against the masonry block → fiber gypsum or Wedi boards → cement-based filler (Casco HusFix or similar) → silicate paint.
 
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