Help regarding drywall on basement walls!!!

[nickeoanette]

Hello all you skilled people!

As an amateur "renovator" of an old house, I'm delighted to share this expertise in this forum. However, I have a question.

I'm going to lay blue Platon on the basement floor and insulate by using metal studs and insulation foam, and cover the inside with Minerit (i.e., the sides facing the room).

BUT, should the Platon sheet go all the way to the existing concrete wall, so the metal studs stand on the Platon sheet (to achieve a 3-5cm air gap behind the "new walls," which I believe is the intended method according to Platon's side http://www.isola.se/pdf/Insida Kallarvagg.pdf)?

Or should the Platon sheet "only" go to the "new walls" (as I attach the metal studs directly to the concrete)?

According to option number 1 (Platon's alternative), I'm afraid the metal studs will "press" down the bumps under the sheet and negate the air circulation.

And, for option number 2, you can actually "just" insert some ventilation holes to make the air circulate behind the "new walls."

I hope I've managed to explain my problem.

What do you think?

 

[towi]

I had also planned to use plaster, but after reading this thread, I've changed my mind. I'm looking for a simple, safe, and long-lasting solution that doesn't cost a fortune.

House/background:
In our house from the 1950s, I am renovating the lower floor, which is partially below ground (30-50 cm). The "drainage" is original, but thanks to the house being built high on a hill, the natural runoff is relatively good. Both the foundation and basement walls are uninsulated. We currently have no problems with moisture. Both exterior and interior walls are wallpapered concrete walls. The ceiling is stretched fabric in one room and some form of Masonite boards in the rest of the lower floor. Above this, wood paneling and chipboard. The floor is uninsulated concrete with glued cork matting (terrible and probably not good from a moisture perspective...)

Walls:
I plan to build up with Leca blocks and then lime plaster and use a silicate paint that breathes. How important is it to remove the wallpaper before I build up the Leca? Could I advantageously place some insulation between the Leca and the exterior wall? Risks? Does the Leca insulate reasonably well anyway?

Ceiling:
I plan to install spaced wooden paneling and then plasterboard on the ceiling. Should be okay since it's wood above anyway?

Floor:
I would like parquet flooring instead of tiles to avoid increasing the basement feel. Is it enough with Platon directly on the concrete floors and click-parquet on this? Any tips on insulation without having to dig up the floor? Can you, for example, put 100mm polystyrene underneath?
Is a ventilated raised floor with ventilated skirting boards, etc., really necessary? The ceiling height is not excessively high.

Thanks in advance!

 

[BJohan]

I recently bought a house with a basement. In two rooms, there are raised ventilated floors that cause a bad smell. I plan to tear out the floors and replace them with something else. Ideally, I would break up the floors, lay down foam insulation and underfloor heating, and then pour leveling concrete. To avoid breaking up the floors, I was thinking of pouring about 100 mm EPS concrete on top of the existing concrete floor, installing water-based underfloor heating, and leveling with self-leveling compound. EPS concrete is heat-insulating. This is a construction that allows moisture migration and should work in a basement, right?

 

[khenke]

if you want a laminate floor, use blue Platon.. but then you can't use a click floor.. because there's a certain "sway" in the Platon mat when you walk! So in that case, go for glued laminate.. or a thick click floor 12-13mm or similar. I've had it now for 7 years (glued laminate on blue Platon) and it works great! I've now ripped up the floor because I'm installing underfloor heating and there were no traces of issues!

Below is a link to some pictures that describe how to lay a really good basement floor (a bit down the page).

1. First, a special felt under the blue Platon mat.. this removes creaky sounds that may arise because the Platon floor is slightly flexible against the concrete.

2. Blue Platon mat that lets air circulate

3. Foam insulation - Insulating against ground cooling that rises through the concrete floor. The person who took the pictures had laid a similar floor without foam in another room and said the temperature difference was significant.

4. Floor chipboard that is glued together provides a stable construction

5. Finally, add carpet or click floor...

This construction provides long-lasting moisture protection and a basement floor that doesn't conduct cold from the ground. It's a bit more expensive than laying a click floor directly on the Platon mat, but this is the method I'm going to use in my basement as I want a permanent solution.

I'm going to lay a white wall-to-wall carpet on top instead of a click floor... it's going to be a home theater room, so the carpet gives better acoustics in the room.

And of course the link....

http://www.minhembio.com/frha/118731#155890

/Henke

 

[Totti]

We are going to prepare two bedrooms in the basement, let's see if I have learned anything by scanning through this thread. Here are the conditions:

EgnaHem house from '49 (70+70 sqm)
Newly drained with Isodrän externally on all walls

Is this a good solution?
* Metal studs with OSB boards on the walls. (possibly also gypsum as someone mentioned? is it needed?)
* Carpet directly on the concrete floor (which allows moisture to pass through)
* A fresh air vent per room

 

[paesan]

Could one not place a metal stud with tar paper underneath against the floor as a sill and then put a metal stud in the ceiling? Leave a small gap against the outer wall and then frame up between the floor and ceiling to then place rebar wire between the studs to keep the insulation away from the outer wall and then drywall. Leave a ventilation gap at the top and one at the bottom. Then the wall should be able to breathe and you would avoid moisture in the drywall?

 

[FredrikR]

Surely you won't need tar paper for metal studs, will you!?

 

[hajof70]

Well, for my basement with damp clay soil around it, the recommendation from Danogips was to have paper or the equivalent underneath... Wasn't too tricky to get you

 

[MikroSivert]

And gypsum too! Stachybotrys chartarum a.k.a. paper mold a.k.a. black mold requires cellulose as nutrition and will thus thrive on the back of the gypsum..

I would have gone for 45 mm steel stud (stabilized with metal brackets against the outer wall) with minerit as cladding.

thumbs up... perfect for basement walls.

 

[Roger J]

Sounds tough to fix up the basement, I'm in the same boat and I'm just going to paint the walls with a breathable paint and put platonmat on the sole and then a click floor on top of that!

 

[Roger J]

No comments? What do you think, can you plaster the wall so that it becomes smooth and nice, and then paint it?

Sure, the echo remains, but you can see if moisture would get into the wall.

 

[fremag]

Of course you can, but polishing requires some skill. You should use silicate paint. I have torn up laminate flooring laid on Platon membrane with "ventilated" baseboards. It didn't smell so good underneath. I would never lay such a floor. Ground moisture must have a free path.
/fremag

 

[Richie_Evd]

-------------------- ´

Hello

Am also after the same but haven't read all the posts so I might be repeating the questions but.

I previously had an erected wooden construction in my basement which was really damp. I've torn it down and insulated the outside + drainage.

Now to the exciting part that you're talking about.

I want to plaster the walls inside to keep a stone check on any moisture etc... Is there a good plaster, like putty that doesn't require endless mixing????

Then ventilated floor, does anyone have experience, possible places to buy and get tips? Prices would be fun too????

 

[Savanna]

I have read the thread but haven't really found an answer.

If you're planning to use a metal track on the floor and ceiling and then guide metal studs into these and then drywall the walls.

How should you do it to allow air to circulate there? The metal track is against the ceiling, and then the metal goes down 45mm. If I then install drywall, it feels like it would be completely sealed. Can this be avoided by drilling holes in the metal track at the top and bottom to allow air to circulate behind the drywall? Or is this not necessary, or are there other alternatives?

/Kristina

 

[Addan91]

Have read through the thread but haven't really found an answer.

How should one ensure that air can circulate there? The metal strip is still against the ceiling and then the metal goes down 45mm. If I then put up gypsum, it becomes completely sealed.
/Kristina

You can place blocks/spacers under the metal strip.