Thanks for the reply! I saw your tip about attaching the foam plastic with adhesive to the walls. Would it be beneficial to attach the foam plastic with adhesive to the floor as well?
Then we are also going to insulate the walls and are considering foam plastic there too according to your solution. Then I suppose the foam plastics will simply meet each other at the floor-wall joint?
 
If you want to have tiles on the floor, it's possible to attach a styrolite board (not polystyrene), but if the floor is uneven, it's very difficult to get an even grip on the adhesive. (Think of enormous tile slabs) in that case, I would recommend cutting the styrolite into smaller sizes.

But in your case: don't complicate things, leave the polystyrene loose since the click flooring should also be laid loose.
 
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mikewse
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A
I am going to frame out walls in a basement with damp walls. It is an old house and nothing can be done about the moisture. I want to make a cheap solution. I was thinking of attaching battens to the walls with plastic pieces against the wall so they are not flush, and then add some air holes in certain places so the air can circulate.

How wide should the air gap be against the wall?
 
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Blwrgrl
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A
I think the best solution would have been steel studs and fermacell boards, but that becomes so expensive.
 
In my home theater room, I have steel studs in the ceiling and floor, wooden studs in between. Everything is 5cm out from the basement wall. There is a ventilation hole on each side of the basement room leading to the outside.
 
Hello
Sorry, but what you are considering doesn't work in practice.
You are likely to get moisture and mold damage.

Best regards,
The Inspector
 
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Bagarn79
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JohannesP said:
I am going to frame walls in a basement with damp walls. It is an old house and nothing can be done about the moisture.
I want to make a cheap solution. I planned to attach battens to the walls with plastic pieces against the wall so they are not flush, and then some air holes in certain places so the air can circulate.

How much should the air gap be against the wall?
Smart! Reminds me of the spacer blocks for facade insulation. Here is a measurement for studs for interior insulation with an advanced form of foam plastic AND plywood, however, the total of them is 30mm 😋

Wooden battens with 12mm plywood and 18mm insulation foam, alongside screws for installation, highlighting a total thickness of 30mm.
 
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Hello
Even with inorganic spacers against the basement wall, moisture in vapor phase will still reach your studs anyway.
Tip: forget about any organic materials against the wall, you're only going to have problems! Do as previous posters recommend.
Glue foam insulation to the wall, you can paint, plaster, or tile it as a surface layer.

Best regards,
The Inspector
 
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Blwrgrl
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mikewse said:
Interesting discussion.

Our basement has an uninsulated slab, so I want to lay 20-30 mm of cellplast on it to reduce the cold penetration. On top, I'm considering vinyl click flooring to completely avoid organic materials. The cellplast is capillary-breaking, so I'm wondering if I can lay it directly on the slab? Or is it recommended to use platon or building plastic first?

[the slab is on a gravel bed and the outer walls have external platon and ground insulation]
Cellplast isn't capillary-breaking, is it? I've read that slabs with insulation on top are the ones that have received the most moisture damage. So I hope you managed to get some air gap where indoor air can circulate.
 
Surely, a steam brake should be okay for insulating basement walls?
 
The cell plastic cannot be damaged; it is the potential surface layer with organic material that can be damaged by moisture.
Tip: simply explained...
Clean the slab thoroughly, lay plastic wrap with 30-50cm overlap, then lay cell plastic. Then choose a laminate floor with a high amount of acrylate in it. The best would be if you could also complement with underfloor heating in the cell plastic boards.
 
Besiktningsmannen said:
The foam plastic cannot get damaged; it is the potential surface layer with organic material that can get moisture damage.
Tip: Simply put…
Clean the slab thoroughly, lay plastic film with 30-50cm overlap, then lay foam plastic. Then choose a laminate floor with a high acrylate amount. Ideally, you could also complement with underfloor heating in the foam plastic boards.
There can indeed be moisture damage with such insulation if the foundation is older and if there is wood embedded 😯 Or am I misunderstanding what is written here

Screenshot of a Wikipedia article discussing moisture damage in construction, mentioning makadam, moisture barriers, and insulation issues above concrete slabs.
 
You are referring to embedded nail battens, and of course they should not remain. You need to remove those if so.
I meant that the Styrofoam in you cannot get moisture damage, it is not organic.
 
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Blwrgrl
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Besiktningsmannen said:
Hello
Even with inorganic spacers against the basement wall, moisture in vapor form can still reach your studs.
Tip: Forget all about organic materials against the wall, you will only have problems! Do as previously suggested.
Glue polystyrene to the wall, you can paint, plaster or tile it as a surface.

Kind regards,
Besiktningsmannen
Gluing polystyrene and then applying reinforced plaster sounds great, but I was wondering how it is when it comes to hanging things on the wall? Is such reinforcement equivalent to fiber-reinforced gypsum perhaps?
 
Blwrgrl said:
Gluing foam board and then reinforced plaster on top sounds great, but I was wondering how it will be for hanging things on the wall then? Is such reinforcement equivalent to fiber-reinforced plasterboard even?
It becomes difficult to hang heavy paintings, shelves, etc..., 😜
 
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