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Eternit?
Thanks for the answer. How large was the area you paid 8000kr for? Knocking down with a hammer sounds crazy. I had planned for the contractors I hire to take down the boards on the wall (only 4 meters wide and 1.20m high) and also ensure it's clean during the process. Unless I decide to do it myself, but it seems like I'm leaning toward a company at the moment. The quote might be what changes my mind.lars_stefan_axelsson said:Yep, I've done both. That is, I've both hired a company and done it myself. With the company, two men came for a day, and it cost 8000:- (a few years ago). I had expected them to take down entire boards (located in the ceiling of a former boiler room and laundry room), but they hammered down most of it... I spent between 60-80 hours cleaning up after them.
In hindsight, I should have done the whole thing myself. You can find information on how to do it by searching the internet (work environment agency). It's not a disaster, but it involves some careful work. You should have a mask with a P3-filter (particle, grade 3). Also, use a disposable coverall (dustproof). Build an "airlock" with construction plastic and make sure there's negative pressure in the room you're cleaning. You can rent fans with filters, vacuums, etc. But I actually cheated and used an old junky vacuum with a long hose and set it outside in the rain. Just make sure you don't spread the junk inside the house when working with it (and have a vacuum with a HEPA filter for regular cleaning so you actually capture the fibers from then on). The goal of the cleaning is to be clean and dust-free when you're done. That means all gray should be gone, surfaces brushed, scrubbed, and dust-wiped with a cloth. Think of it as if you were removing plague bacteria. No power tools (the guys who came had hand-sanded the entire Kungälv municipal office since the painter had used asbestos in the paint back in the '60s to prevent running).
As long as you have a reasonable respect and do as you're instructed, there's no danger for anyone involved.
Getting rid of the junk afterward is, as mentioned, harder (and getting worse). Check with your municipality before you start. Many require double plastic bags with labeling on both the inner and outer layers, etc. etc. It varies and costs more and more money. The handling requirements have only become stricter, so the tip is to get rid of it as soon as possible. It probably won't get any easier or cheaper.
So, from someone who's been there (i.e., discovered asbestos in the ceiling with a hole saw), breathe, take it easy.It's not a disaster and can be handled/removed for a reasonable amount of money.
Smart alek
· Västra Götalands
· 11 165 posts
Well, the laundry room is about 12m2 and the "bathroom" maybe 15m2. Then they also took two taps/elbows on the heating pipes (and missed one).
But as I said. Still expect that you will have to do a lot of cleanup yourself afterward. There is no private person who wants to pay to have them there for a week to clean as thoroughly as it actually should be done according to spec.
But as I said. Still expect that you will have to do a lot of cleanup yourself afterward. There is no private person who wants to pay to have them there for a week to clean as thoroughly as it actually should be done according to spec.
Ok, maybe it's best if I leave the wall and tear down the other wall constructions and the floor first and clean up decently and then take the "problem wall" last. There's already all sorts of renovation mess in the room where the wall is going to be removed, and it might be foolish to top it with asbestos particles.lars_stefan_axelsson said:Well, the laundry room is about 12m2 and the "bathroom" maybe 15m2. Then they also took two faucets/bends on heating pipes (and missed one).
But as I said. Still expect that you will have to do a lot of cleaning yourself afterwards. There's no private person who wants to pay to have them there for a week to clean as thoroughly as it should be done according to the spec.
I can add that sometimes (often?) it is very difficult to take down the tiles whole. But as mentioned, the risk is exaggerated if you use the right type of equipment.
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Smart alek
· Västra Götalands
· 11 165 posts
Yes, it's not like anyone has exaggerated the risk here to the extent of saying that it would be a problem even if you have the right equipment? (It's not like tiger taming where sometimes a whip and chair aren't enough).
Just that you *should have the right equipment and do it right*. Maybe not so much for your own sake, you can handle some exposure, but to not make things worse and contaminate the whole house with the mess. The equipment is not expensive, and it's not difficult to do it right, you just have to do it.
Just that you *should have the right equipment and do it right*. Maybe not so much for your own sake, you can handle some exposure, but to not make things worse and contaminate the whole house with the mess. The equipment is not expensive, and it's not difficult to do it right, you just have to do it.
I'm borrowing the thread a bit.
I've just torn down asbestos-cement walls in the laundry room at home. I taped the door cracks from the outside (my partner locked me in) and opened the window.
Dressed in a P3 mask, disposable coveralls, disposable gloves, and safety goggles, I carefully took down the walls. Some did crack, though, and here's my question.
I set up two table fans directed towards the window and climbed out to avoid removing the seal on the door. How long do you think I need to leave the fans on in there before I can open the door and start carrying out the boards?
Are there HEPA filters available for all vacuum cleaners, or do you need to rent a special one?
I've just torn down asbestos-cement walls in the laundry room at home. I taped the door cracks from the outside (my partner locked me in) and opened the window.
Dressed in a P3 mask, disposable coveralls, disposable gloves, and safety goggles, I carefully took down the walls. Some did crack, though, and here's my question.
I set up two table fans directed towards the window and climbed out to avoid removing the seal on the door. How long do you think I need to leave the fans on in there before I can open the door and start carrying out the boards?
Are there HEPA filters available for all vacuum cleaners, or do you need to rent a special one?
Smart alek
· Västra Götalands
· 11 165 posts
If you're going to do it right, you should rent a vacuum cleaner with a HEPA filter for the job. My comment about the HEPA filter on the vacuum cleaner was more that when you are completely finished and cleaning as usual in the house, it doesn't hurt at all to have a vacuum cleaner with a HEPA filter. On the contrary, I believe (without having seen any scientific study) that it will capture much/all asbestos that may have escaped into the house. Not all vacuum cleaners have a HEPA filter, so you simply have to make sure to buy one.
If you have asbestos in dust form, it might take a day or so before you can be sure that all airborne particles are gone. That is, provided that you have airflow, i.e., air in at one place and out at another. Just placing a fan in a window, I don't think it's certain that it helps at all. There can be pockets of dead air. If you've packed the sheets well, you can take them out through the house, provided the *bags* are clean, but I would take them through the window if possible at all.
If you have asbestos in dust form, it might take a day or so before you can be sure that all airborne particles are gone. That is, provided that you have airflow, i.e., air in at one place and out at another. Just placing a fan in a window, I don't think it's certain that it helps at all. There can be pockets of dead air. If you've packed the sheets well, you can take them out through the house, provided the *bags* are clean, but I would take them through the window if possible at all.
I placed the fans on the floor, one that oscillates back and forth and one that blows towards the window. There is no air intake because the door is taped at the seams. Do you think it would work to remove the tape at the bottom so air can be drawn in under the door (one of the fans is located right inside on the floor)?
Through the window is impossible and packaging might be difficult without breaking the boards further, what about building an airlock on the route you have to go and then cleaning thoroughly before reopening the rest of the house again?
Through the window is impossible and packaging might be difficult without breaking the boards further, what about building an airlock on the route you have to go and then cleaning thoroughly before reopening the rest of the house again?
Do not vacuum, but wet mop. Moisture binds the dust.
Personally, I'm inclined to keep the eterniten in my laundry room. It's there because the laundry room used to be a boiler room, and a fire cell was needed back then. And I would prefer it to stay in case the dryer or washing machine catches fire. I don't know how good the fire protection is in plaster compared to eternit.
Personally, I'm inclined to keep the eterniten in my laundry room. It's there because the laundry room used to be a boiler room, and a fire cell was needed back then. And I would prefer it to stay in case the dryer or washing machine catches fire. I don't know how good the fire protection is in plaster compared to eternit.
Smart alek
· Västra Götalands
· 11 165 posts
Exactly. The baseline is to wet mop. When done more industrially, vacuums are used, but then you have to rent one (or as I cheat and place it outdoors when it rains with a long hose and then throw it away afterward).pelpet said:Do not vacuum, but wet mop. The moisture binds the dust.
Myself, I am inclined to keep the eternit in my laundry room. It's there because the laundry room was previously a boiler room, and a fire cell was needed then. And it can stay there in case the dryer or washing machine should catch fire. I don't know how good fire protection gypsum provides compared to eternit.
As for the fire cell, I don't know if eternit plays a role. Small houses only have one fire cell anyway, and if it really catches fire, I don't think either eternit or simple gypsum makes a difference. (Moreover, houses get destroyed by smoke and firefighting efforts even after relatively small fires, so it's probably best not to burn at all).
(My laundry room had the eternit because there had been a fireplace for boiling laundry with... )
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