I have some raw Leca block walls in the basement that need to be covered with boards and then painted/wallpapered.
Two are exterior walls built with Weber Leca-Polyurethane foam-Leca and plastered according to all the rules on the outside. No part of these walls is below ground level. One is an interior wall made of pure Leca material.
I'm thinking regular gypsum boards 12.5 mm with paper layer on the front and back.
The carpenter wants to use "gypsum adhesive" that he combs up with a coarse-toothed spatula (similar to when laying tile floors). I'm doubtful about all the water that needs to be added to the gypsum, with the risk that it seeps into the gypsum board's paper layer, dissolving it, and creating a breeding ground for black mold.
I have found some coarser and longer Grabber drywall screws 4.3x58mm, which I have tested driving into the Leca. It holds well. Well enough to mount drywall with about 10 screws per board (but of course NOT strong enough for mounting things like wall brackets, where thicker and longer Leca/light concrete screws are needed).
So I can screw the drywall directly onto the Leca. The surface of the Leca is quite rough, so in this way, I get an irregular but existing air gap for ventilation. A plus.
Furthermore, I save both material (the drywall adhesive is quite expensive) and the risk of moisture and mold. Two more pluses.
A third option is a "hat profile" in metal, but it is more expensive, takes up space, and complicates things with already installed boxes and outlets by the electrician.
Has anyone tried the different methods? Pros and cons?
Two are exterior walls built with Weber Leca-Polyurethane foam-Leca and plastered according to all the rules on the outside. No part of these walls is below ground level. One is an interior wall made of pure Leca material.
I'm thinking regular gypsum boards 12.5 mm with paper layer on the front and back.
The carpenter wants to use "gypsum adhesive" that he combs up with a coarse-toothed spatula (similar to when laying tile floors). I'm doubtful about all the water that needs to be added to the gypsum, with the risk that it seeps into the gypsum board's paper layer, dissolving it, and creating a breeding ground for black mold.
I have found some coarser and longer Grabber drywall screws 4.3x58mm, which I have tested driving into the Leca. It holds well. Well enough to mount drywall with about 10 screws per board (but of course NOT strong enough for mounting things like wall brackets, where thicker and longer Leca/light concrete screws are needed).
So I can screw the drywall directly onto the Leca. The surface of the Leca is quite rough, so in this way, I get an irregular but existing air gap for ventilation. A plus.
Furthermore, I save both material (the drywall adhesive is quite expensive) and the risk of moisture and mold. Two more pluses.
A third option is a "hat profile" in metal, but it is more expensive, takes up space, and complicates things with already installed boxes and outlets by the electrician.
Has anyone tried the different methods? Pros and cons?
I am currently installing metal rails on my basement walls. I have learned that they are called secondary rails. It's simple now that you have already installed the electricity. You might need to get some extension rings for the device and junction boxes. There are different heights for the secondary rails. The ones I link to below are 25 mm.
example: https://www.optimera.se/bygghandel/...r-gips/sekundärregel-s-25-85-3800mm-006097539
Then you get a proper air gap behind and don't have to worry at all about moisture... A bit more work but you'll sleep better at night.
example: https://www.optimera.se/bygghandel/...r-gips/sekundärregel-s-25-85-3800mm-006097539
Then you get a proper air gap behind and don't have to worry at all about moisture... A bit more work but you'll sleep better at night.
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