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320 replies
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320 replies
Does Isover's spacer sleeve provide an air gap (facade board)?
But you must understand that just because a supplier suggests a method of installation, it doesn't have to be correct.SBH said:
The suppliers of single-stage sealed plaster facades advocated their installation method long after all the problems arose. Did you still think it was good then because the supplier said so, even when all the research showed it wasn't?
Moreover, it's strange that you trust the supplier more than the researcher. What do you think suppliers have in mind? And what do you think a researcher has?
I have shown numerous articles and studies that have shown that a wide air gap is necessary and that bearing and diagonal battens are important.
Also that horizontal plus venting through the panel is not sufficient.
You have not been able to show anything that supports your claims except that you have built houses where it worked, therefore all researchers are wrong.
Should I have to drill holes to install measuring instruments? I don't think the owners would want that.H hul said:But you must understand that just because a supplier suggests a method of installation, it doesn't have to be correct.
The suppliers of single-sealed plaster facades advocated their installation method long after all the problems arose. Did you still think it was good then because the supplier said so, even though all research showed it wasn't?
Moreover, isn't it strange that you trust the supplier more than the researcher?
What do you think suppliers have in mind? And what do you think a researcher has?
I have shown numerous articles and studies that have demonstrated that a width air gap is necessary and that support and battens are important.
Also, that horizontal plus ventilation via the panel is not sufficient.
You haven't been able to show anything that supports your claims besides that you have built houses where it worked, so therefore all researchers are wrong.
Why do you want support and battens on a wall?
There are non-destructive measuring instruments as well, you should know that since you're in the industry.SBH said:
I'm not the one who wants them. They are required to achieve a moisture-proof construction according to all research.
And it's also quite logical that they're needed.
But even if I had been doubtful that they were necessary and all studies said they were needed, I would install them because it's a negligible extra cost.
is it required to install instruments in a wall?H hul said:There are non-destructive measuring instruments as well, you should know that being in the industry.
I'm not the one who wants them. Rather they are required to achieve a moisture-safe construction according to all research.
And logically it is also required.
But even if I was doubtful that they were needed but all studies said they were required, I would install them because it's a negligible extra cost
don't think you would like the fluctuation of the values.
nope, it doesn't require mounting anything in the wall.SBH said:
How can you not know that, being so experienced? How do you measure moisture in finished constructions?
To answer your second question, I mount plastic on the inside wall and wind barrier on the outside (though I never use wind barrier).
What were you thinking about?
then I wonder why you start with spacers and carriers on a facade. and also start with one-step and two-step sealing on wood paneling.H hul said:There are non-destructive measuring instruments as well, you should know that since you are in the industry.
I'm not the one who wants them. Rather, they are required to achieve a moisture-proof construction according to all research.
And it is also quite logical that they are needed.
But even if I had been skeptical that they were needed but all studies said they were required, I would have installed them because they are a negligible extra cost
honestly, I have no idea what you're asking about?SBH said:
if you're asking if I know where to install battens and counter battens, then yes I do.
what do you mean by starting with single-step and two-step sealing on wooden panels?
strö och bärläkt are on the roof.H hul said:
one-stage and two-stage sealing should not be considered when working with wood paneling
What could happen if any water gets through the panel and doesn't dry fast enough? The insulation is quite water-resistant; I recall that this type of board can remain unprotected for a few months according to the manufacturer, and the water won't reach the frame structure since we have a full insulation layer. It would be the battens or panels that could be damaged in that case, but wood tolerates water well.
call it what you want, I think everyone understands what you mean.SBH said:
of course, a wood panel can be both one-step sealed and two-step sealed, or are you saying it can't be?
Perhaps the dumbest post in the thread so far, which shows your ignorance.S smurfen72 said:What could happen if any water gets through the panel and doesn't dry quickly enough? The insulation withstands water well, I believe that this type of board can remain unprotected for a few months according to the manufacturer, and the water won't reach the frame since we have a comprehensive insulation layer. It would be the battens or panel that could get damaged, but wood withstands water well.
According to your reasoning, there is no need to worry about moisture entering the wall. The wall withstands moisture well anyway. So why do we apply a diffusion plastic on the inside to prevent moisture from entering the wall when the wall tolerates moisture so well? Do you want me to explain it to you or can you read up on it yourself?
Moreover, don't you think water gets past the comprehensive insulation layer? There is a large pressure difference over the facade, which is why you have two-step sealing constructions if you weren't aware. Moisture will be pushed into the entire wall construction.
You'll probably need to explain because I don't understand how it works. On the inside, there's a risk that moisture will be pushed into the facade, but as I understand it, there's no such risk on the outside as long as there is an air gap of 28-32 mm, which is always the case with this type of board, right? On the inside, a different type of insulation is used, which we are not discussing here. I haven't heard any manufacturer recommend that a traditionally insulated frame can stand without cladding for a month, but I recall it's okay with a Västkust skiva. These boards are hard, roughly like a mark skiva, and they don't noticeably get wet if left out in the rain. Very little water is supposed to get through a proper wood paneling; sure, the paneling gets damp, but there's an air gap, and water doesn't jump 30 mm across from panels to insulation.
First of all, do you know why there is a two-step sealed construction and how it works?S smurfen72 said:You'll have to explain because I don't understand how it works. On the inside, there's a risk of moisture being pushed into the facade, but as I understand it, there's no risk on the outside as long as you have an air gap of 28-32 mm, which you always get with this type of board. On the inside, you use another type of insulation that we're not discussing here; I haven't heard any manufacturer recommend that a traditionally insulated frame can stand without cladding for a month, but I believe it's okay with a västkust skiva. These boards are hard, similar to a mark skiva, and they don't get noticeably wet if left out in the rain. There's supposedly very little water that comes through a proper wood panel, and while the panel becomes damp, there's an air gap, and the water doesn't jump 30 mm over from the panels to the insulation.