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Does Isover's spacer sleeve provide an air gap (facade board)?
H hul said:
these three walls on a south wall of 7 meters. measurements done over a few daysH hul said:Below are excerpts from Results and Conclusions from the research for those who don't want to read the entire thing.
SBH: you still don't think you're building wrong, even though you've been shown evidence that your method is incorrect and research has proven this
It has been shown that air exchange and convective moisture transport in gaps are affected by a very large number of factors. The main conclusions from the work are that:
Moisture exchange and convective moisture transport
- convective moisture transport and drying processes in gaps benefit from a large gap width of 25-40 mm and vertical battens that do not add flow resistance
- with horizontal, perforated battens, convective moisture transport is reduced compared to vertical battens, especially when the gap openings do not limit the flow area
- gaps with a width < 10 mm have a strongly limited capacity for convective moisture transport and drying times can be very long
- season, façade color, façade orientation, gap height, and detailing at the gap openings are all factors that influence the size of potential convective moisture transport
With wet material surfaces against the gap, calculated moisture exchange [g/m2∙day] varies widely. Small gap width, north orientation, light façade color, and horizontal battens negatively impact moisture exchange. In this drying phase, it holds that moisture exchange:
- is about 30 times greater at 40 mm gap width compared to 5 mm (south orientation)
- is reduced to about one fourth in north orientation instead of south orientation
- is reduced to about one third if the color is light instead of dark (south orientation)
- is reduced to less than half with horizontal battens instead of vertical
- Air exchange over a long period
The average air exchange in experimental wall gaps during the period from October to February could be estimated to:
- 230-310 changes/hour with vertical battens
- 75-100 changes/hour with horizontal battens Lindab
- 95-130 changes/hour with horizontal battens Europrofil
walls measured 1.0x2.1 m (WxH) where one side of the wall is plexiglass.
provides no real-world result.
you can see with smoke the air's path. you can, of course, measure airflow.
but you don't get how a real wall works.
and then that you bring up a 7-year-old research, in the research world, it's ancient
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haha stop it now, just realize now that you have been proven wrong.SBH said:these three walls on a south wall of 7 meters. measurement made over a few days
the walls measured 1.0x2.1 m (WxH) where one side of the wall is plexiglass.
doesn't give any real result.
you can see the air movement with smoke. you can of course measure airflow.
but you don't find out how a real wall works.
and then to bring up something 7 years old in the research world is ancient
I don't even bother to respond to the above ridiculous statements because everyone in this thread including you knows that it is just ridiculous to say something like that.
Grundstött
· Halland
· 28 345 posts
And for us, who have wisely chosen horizontal facade panels on vertical battens:
How much worse is the moisture transport due to the mouse mesh, which is mounted at the bottom edge?
Well, at least there are 50% openings in the mouse mesh anyway.
OT
The reason I put horizontal battens on the new house is largely due to my impressions from the Norwegian Sørlandet, where I used to sail a lot. Every other house had horizontal panels, and I researched a little into why.
The answer was that horizontal panels, whether rebated or tongued and grooved, performed better in the coastal area's heavy driving rain. They let in less water than untightened, spaced-apart vertical batten and cover strip panels.
How much worse is the moisture transport due to the mouse mesh, which is mounted at the bottom edge?
Well, at least there are 50% openings in the mouse mesh anyway.
OT
The reason I put horizontal battens on the new house is largely due to my impressions from the Norwegian Sørlandet, where I used to sail a lot. Every other house had horizontal panels, and I researched a little into why.
The answer was that horizontal panels, whether rebated or tongued and grooved, performed better in the coastal area's heavy driving rain. They let in less water than untightened, spaced-apart vertical batten and cover strip panels.
Yep, in Norway it's a requirement to have them, but one should note that Norway is generally more exposed than Sweden.KnockOnWood said:
And for us, who wisely have horizontal facade cladding on vertical battens:
How much worse does the moisture transport become due to the mouse guards, which are located at the bottom?
Well, at least there are 50% gaps in the mouse guards.
OT
The reason I put horizontal battens on the new house is largely due to my impressions from Norway's Sørlandet, where I used to sail a lot. Every other house had horizontal cladding, and I did some research on why.
Horizontal cladding, either tongued-and-grooved or rabbeted, was better against the coastal heavy driving rain, was the answer. It lets in less water than untightened, shrunk vertical lock/locklist cladding.
Regarding the question about mouse guards, I have no idea about the answer.
I will still answer you so you can see how ridiculous your claims are.H hul said:
I will still answer you so you can see how ridiculous your claims are.SBH said:these three walls on a southern wall of 7 meters. measurement conducted over a few days
the walls have dimensions 1.0x2.1 m (WxH) where one side of the wall is plexiglass.
does not provide real results.
you can see with smoke the movement of the air. you can of course measure airflow.
but you do not get how a real wall works.
and then you bring up a 7-year-old, in the world of research it is antiquated
Regarding 7-year-old research:
The theory of relativity was developed in 1905, that is more than 7 years old. Do you oppose this too?
Do you seriously think that everything taught at universities and schools, etc., is updated in 2017? and then redone every year?
If you can't refute with a newer study (which you couldn't), one must assume that the latest one stands, right?
I can't bring up a study that hasn't been done. But we can take it on internal email after the vacation.H hul said:I will still answer you so you can see how ridiculous your claims are.
I will still answer you so you can see how ridiculous your claims are.
Regarding 7-year-old research:
The theory of relativity was developed in 1905, that is, more than 7 years old. Do you oppose this too?
Do you seriously believe that everything taught at universities and schools, etc., is updated in 2017? and then redone every year?
If you can't disprove it with a newer study (which you haven't been able to), one must assume that the latest holds, right?
But how do you know that these houses are healthy?SBH said:
I've renovated many houses and demolished houses in my days and it's not uncommon to encounter mold growth behind the facade and in the wall. A common place is also on the backside of the vapor barrier (outside)
because houses are inspected, houses are remodeled, paneling is changed because the next owner wants another type of panel.H hul said:
after reading some more of your other posts, I understand there's a lot of nonsense from your side.
On roofs, you have strö läkt so that water penetrating through materials like sheet metal seams can run off.H hul said:Exactly, I also don't think one should blindly follow descriptions/instructions from suppliers.
These are often designed to be profit-maximizing and cheap so you can justify their system in a project.
If you know that they can easily be improved (as in this case with an extra bärläkt), I think you should do it, especially if it's your own house that you plan to live in. To be completely honest, there is a lot done on various construction projects that I would never do at home.
Regarding bärläkt versus ströläkt and bärläkt, why do you lay ströläkt and bärläkt on roofs instead of just one bärläkt? Does the roof require more ventilation?
