Does it matter significantly which type of wind barrier you choose inside the outer panel? I will be building with eco-insulation, so I assume it is a bit more sensitive to wind since it is diffusion-open on the inside. Will Byggmax's cheapest windproofing work, or should I get something more advanced?
Member
· Nuevo Estockholmo
· 3 529 posts
Don't buy the cheap vindpapp. It's a real pain to handle. Vindväv is much better.
http://www.klassiskabyggvaror.se/index.php?meny=160&art=Vindt%E4t%20TC-plus
This is by far the best if you need that type of insulation; also get their moisture barrier on the inside, then you'll have the correct proportions, three times tighter on the inside than the outside
This is by far the best if you need that type of insulation; also get their moisture barrier on the inside, then you'll have the correct proportions, three times tighter on the inside than the outside
Member
· Nuevo Estockholmo
· 3 529 posts
In fact, they are the same for both panels and loose fill; you should have the construction built so it can breathe. This means you must not have plastic as a vapor barrier. You need to have something else that makes the construction meet the requirement of being 3 times tighter on the inside than the outside. If you use the products from the site I linked to, the result will be optimal and the easiest to build. However, you can also go for something like double gypsum+regular wind sheathing, and then have regular wind sheathing on the outside as well (provided you have an air gap between the outer panel and the wind sheathing as is common). You can also go for gypsum+wood panel+wind sheathing and then wind sheathing on the outside. The important thing with a diffusion-open construction is the following: moisture should have 3 times more difficulty getting from the room into the wall than from the wall out into the open.
I know many who use regular windy fabric, (just a standard wind fabric), and they first place windy sheathing, then blow in wood fiber, then use rough-hewn or wood-based paneling, and finally gypsum. This works excellently too, but the site I linked has a comprehensive concept that is practical for those who don't want to delve into the laws of physics
I know many who use regular windy fabric, (just a standard wind fabric), and they first place windy sheathing, then blow in wood fiber, then use rough-hewn or wood-based paneling, and finally gypsum. This works excellently too, but the site I linked has a comprehensive concept that is practical for those who don't want to delve into the laws of physics
Ok, didn't know you could use plaster! I'm building a small house on wheels so I have to think about the weight, so plaster unfortunately won't work. I've already bought this to use on the inside: http://www.bauhaus.se/isolina-luftsparr-130cm.html
plus some rolls of regular windproof paper (Teno AC350) that I'm considering replacing with something else, in case they aren't compatible with the one I linked above. I've tried to contact the manufacturer to check - the figures are in different formats.
Isolina specifies in this format: Water vapor permeability: 46 g/m2d @ RH=75%
while the Teso paper has this format: Vapor resistance 1.15 ± 0.2 m
anyone know how to convert one of them so I can compare? I'd like to make sure there's 3 times more permeability outward, otherwise I need to change the windproof paper.
plus some rolls of regular windproof paper (Teno AC350) that I'm considering replacing with something else, in case they aren't compatible with the one I linked above. I've tried to contact the manufacturer to check - the figures are in different formats.
Isolina specifies in this format: Water vapor permeability: 46 g/m2d @ RH=75%
while the Teso paper has this format: Vapor resistance 1.15 ± 0.2 m
anyone know how to convert one of them so I can compare? I'd like to make sure there's 3 times more permeability outward, otherwise I need to change the windproof paper.
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