52,857 views ·
185 replies
53k views
185 replies
Cross-measure room...not matching yet, then?
Take it easy now. I've been following your thread since I would like to lay herringbone parquet in the future myself. I haven't posted before since I don't have any experience. But now I'm wondering if it's the "plogen" that is out of alignment or if it's the slats that aren't in alignment?
If it's the slats, maybe they can be claimed?
As mentioned above, it will probably never be noticeable. We have old herringbone parquet in several rooms with larger gaps than yours, and it's not something you think about. But I understand your frustration and would probably feel the same if I were in your situation.
If it's the slats, maybe they can be claimed?
As mentioned above, it will probably never be noticeable. We have old herringbone parquet in several rooms with larger gaps than yours, and it's not something you think about. But I understand your frustration and would probably feel the same if I were in your situation.
Good question. I have found one that isn't quite 90 degrees, I was careful when I laid the first "plogen", if I got a gap, I changed the plank. Also checking the angles and it seems to be correct, it could surely be because I've been hammering and moving around, so I've managed to shift them so they're not lying perfectly 100% now, maybe that's what's causing the issue.... I don't know what it could be.-RB- said:Take it easy now. I've been following your thread because I myself would like to lay herringbone parquet in the future. I haven't posted before as I don't have any experience. But now I'm wondering if it's the "plogen" that gets out of alignment or if it's the planks that aren't in angle?
If it's the planks, maybe they can be claimed for a refund?
As mentioned above, it will probably never be noticeable. We have old herringbone parquet in several rooms with larger gaps than yours, and it's nothing you think about. But I understand your frustration and would probably feel the same if I were in your situation.
It would be nice to be able to check the measurements or the angles everywhere to find where the fault is that causes me to end up with the result I have
Just don't stress now. As I said, it looks good so far, so keep going as long as it doesn't go off the rails further. Keep in mind that trim and borders take about as much time as laying the entire herringbone pattern in a normal room. Especially if you have many doors. Do you have a router to mill the joint, or are you planning to rent this?
I've wanted one for a long time, was considering a Festool 1010, but it's a bit too expensive, so I've been eyeing the POF 1400 Bosch... Waiting for an offer to pop up.falkn said:Don't stress now. As I said, I think it looks good now so go ahead as long as it doesn't go off track more. Keep in mind that trimming and moldings take about as much time as laying the entire herringbone pattern in a normal room. Especially if you have many doors. Do you have a router to cut the groove or were you planning to rent one?
Or maybe I'll rent one.
The plunge saw costs 66kr a day plus 1kr for the rail. Starting fee is 200kr, since they always sharpen/replace the blade every time
Really good rental price you get for the plunge saw.berne88 said:I've wanted one for a long time, was looking at a Festool 1010, but it's a bit too expensive, so I've been eyeing the POF 1400 Bosch.... Waiting for an offer to pop up.
Or if I rent one.
66kr per day for the plunge saw plus 1kr for the guide rail.
Start fee of 200kr, as they always sharpen/change the blade each time![]()
Regarding the router, I think you should choose a slightly more expensive router than the POF series. The POF does the job in the current case, but for example, the GOF has better parallel guides that you will benefit from in other projects.
There is also a difference in router bits. You can notice the difference between Jula's and, for example, Cobolt. Both do the job.
Lastly, I think you should learn to use the router before you tackle the floor. It is easy to use a groove cutter with a guide bearing, but if something goes wrong, it eats a lot of wood. Besides the first groove, the edge banding is a critical moment.
Keep in mind that you need a slot cutter router bit with a top-mounted ball bearing. This is not something sold by the cheap brands, and it will experience some wear when working with oak. I would really recommend buying a quality steel. I bought the slot cutter from Cobolt for about 375 SEK including VAT.
Regarding routers, you can often find many used ones. I bought my GOF 900 CE for 1200 SEK second-hand and in almost new condition.
Regarding routers, you can often find many used ones. I bought my GOF 900 CE for 1200 SEK second-hand and in almost new condition.
Another day that looks the same now... Tried but it goes wrong, writing a post for tips and advice.
Do the same tomorrow, and the day after that, the only difference today is I've gotten about 7 haha.... Before the problems started.
Checked so it was 90, tried a few, but then the next ones immediately started to go off, so I began about 3 pieces into the floor and went with the angle that was there, worked well for about 7 pieces, then the gaps started to appear.
What is causing this, used the MDF board for the first one that I nailed, was careful that all pieces were even on all edges, but yet it seems to be off in a very strange way...
Is there a way to check the floor, if it's crooked, if all the angles match, etc.
Do the same tomorrow, and the day after that, the only difference today is I've gotten about 7 haha.... Before the problems started.
Checked so it was 90, tried a few, but then the next ones immediately started to go off, so I began about 3 pieces into the floor and went with the angle that was there, worked well for about 7 pieces, then the gaps started to appear.
What is causing this, used the MDF board for the first one that I nailed, was careful that all pieces were even on all edges, but yet it seems to be off in a very strange way...
Is there a way to check the floor, if it's crooked, if all the angles match, etc.

Here the boards are at 90 degrees and it creates very good edges etc., but as soon as I lay them up like this, this happens.
But if you look further at the board where there is a gap in between when it hits the first plow, it looks like this:

And must that be approved?
Where is the problem then, I ask, I'm really getting tired of this now that it keeps messing up, seriously thinking about tearing it all up again, and either starting over and hoping that the fourth time will be better, I don't know what I should do differently, or just go and throw them away and buy a click floor instead.
Have you cross-measured the pieces? So they aren't rhombuses?
I feel for you, it must be frustrating not to get it completely tight. But in the last picture, it looks good to me! Nothing one would see without crawling on all fours.
The worst thing about it ending up like this is that you'll notice it yourself and be bothered by it.
I feel for you, it must be frustrating not to get it completely tight. But in the last picture, it looks good to me! Nothing one would see without crawling on all fours.
The worst thing about it ending up like this is that you'll notice it yourself and be bothered by it.
Apparently, there's a guy who can lay herringbone in my municipality. I'm going to call him to see if he can come and help me, and if he can't, then it'll be a trip to the dump or sell what's not used. So it'll be click flooring.
I can't deal with this crap now, I just want to finish that room, but I've been messing with this floor for over a month now and haven't even gotten half of it fixed, so I'm giving up unless he can solve it and find where the problem is.
I can't deal with this crap now, I just want to finish that room, but I've been messing with this floor for over a month now and haven't even gotten half of it fixed, so I'm giving up unless he can solve it and find where the problem is.
it seems like there might be some hope 
talked to a guy today who had some good thoughts and ideas, one thing that might cause trouble is that when I laid the first board, there was X% moisture in the wood. now it's been some time since I laid the first one, so it might have started to dry, and then it can change angles, etc., and therefore might not be 100% accurate, so now I'm going to the lumberyard to measure a few different pieces to check the moisture level. also sent some pictures to him and waiting for a response...
talked to a guy today who had some good thoughts and ideas, one thing that might cause trouble is that when I laid the first board, there was X% moisture in the wood. now it's been some time since I laid the first one, so it might have started to dry, and then it can change angles, etc., and therefore might not be 100% accurate, so now I'm going to the lumberyard to measure a few different pieces to check the moisture level. also sent some pictures to him and waiting for a response...