What is your view on råspont+papp construction?
Overengineered in this case. The råspont provides load-bearing capacity and stability. In your construction, you get the same function from the decking. Additionally, you should then have underlay felt and top felt. It becomes much more expensive and more work than both of my construction alternatives.
Okay, considering sheet metal with adhesive condensation felt underneath. I can buy such at a good price..
I googled "plåt" for other reasons and got this result:
http://www.borga.se/byggtillbehor/platprofiler/?gclid=CLTgyJWfqNECFZCHsgodEUcMOQ
they have other profiles (wider) than the usual TRP xxx, you don't have to plane down the width of the joists.
http://www.borga.se/byggtillbehor/platprofiler/?gclid=CLTgyJWfqNECFZCHsgodEUcMOQ
they have other profiles (wider) than the usual TRP xxx, you don't have to plane down the width of the joists.
It seems like a great solution. That way you don't have to mess around with board.
Do you have contacts in the sheet metal industry? Does that mean you can also buy load-bearing sheet metal at a good price? If you have the opportunity to build with such sheet metal, maybe you can skip the roof beams entirely and just put decking on top of the metal?
Do you have contacts in the sheet metal industry? Does that mean you can also buy load-bearing sheet metal at a good price? If you have the opportunity to build with such sheet metal, maybe you can skip the roof beams entirely and just put decking on top of the metal?
Plastic probably won't work so well.
For one thing, a non-condensing underlay cannot be used, and for another, it will probably quickly (5-10 years) become overgrown with dirt and leaves, etc., since it cannot be cleaned under the decking.
Metal roof with through fastened battens is not something I recommend. Too much water will get in. Sure, a fully covered underlay sounds like a solution, but with almost no slope, I don't think it will work.
I have a greenhouse where the plastic goes up to the ridge beam, and where I've put a decking board on top of the ridge beam as rain protection, but since it mostly rains more or less horizontally here, water gets in making it so that nothing can be winter stored directly under the ridge in the greenhouse.
For one thing, a non-condensing underlay cannot be used, and for another, it will probably quickly (5-10 years) become overgrown with dirt and leaves, etc., since it cannot be cleaned under the decking.
Metal roof with through fastened battens is not something I recommend. Too much water will get in. Sure, a fully covered underlay sounds like a solution, but with almost no slope, I don't think it will work.
I have a greenhouse where the plastic goes up to the ridge beam, and where I've put a decking board on top of the ridge beam as rain protection, but since it mostly rains more or less horizontally here, water gets in making it so that nothing can be winter stored directly under the ridge in the greenhouse.
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I don't have contacts, but I think I got a good price from a nearby company.
Here are the ones I've dealt with: http://www.tsbsnordic.se/sv/produkter/takprofiler/trapetsprofil
They have facade profiling with good dimensions, but can I use this as a roof?
Here are the ones I've dealt with: http://www.tsbsnordic.se/sv/produkter/takprofiler/trapetsprofil
They have facade profiling with good dimensions, but can I use this as a roof?
Why wouldn't you place the battens in the valleys of the sheet metal by the way?
For example, on Trapezoidal 18?
It should be easier?
How do you envision the fastening of the sheet metal if the battens are placed underneath and on the profile peaks?
For example, on Trapezoidal 18?
It should be easier?
How do you envision the fastening of the sheet metal if the battens are placed underneath and on the profile peaks?
If you place battens under the valleys of the sheet, you will need to place the battens that support the deck boards in the valleys, which exposes them to much more moisture.
I imagine that the overlying batten is screwed/nailed directly through the sheet. That should hold the sheet in place.
I imagine that the overlying batten is screwed/nailed directly through the sheet. That should hold the sheet in place.
Okay with kind of long self-drilling screws?
But in some places, the overlying rule is about 195mm?
Do you think you can use a facade profile as a roof kind of like Fasad 45.W.950?
But in some places, the overlying rule is about 195mm?
Do you think you can use a facade profile as a roof kind of like Fasad 45.W.950?
I would probably choose regular wood screws but pre-drill with a metal drill through the upper beam and the sheet. But self-drilling might work well too. The screws should press the wooden deck against the sheet and secure the sheet. Where the overlap beam is thick, one could drill down with a 14 mm drill so that you maybe have 5-6 cm of wood to screw through. It's probably easiest to do this before placing the beam on the roof. I think the following procedure is simplest.
1) Drill completely through the beam that will lie on the roof. About 6 holes per beam.
2) Place it in position and mark on the sheet where the holes should be.
3) Move the beam and drill holes in the sheet.
4) Lay a thick bead of outdoor sealant under the beam and place it so that it matches the holes.
5) Fasten the beam with regular wood screws, about 120mm.
The fascia profile might work. The disadvantage of having wide ridges is that more water will run on the pressure-treated beams, but if you choose NTR AB they should last at least 20 years in water, so it might not be a problem.
1) Drill completely through the beam that will lie on the roof. About 6 holes per beam.
2) Place it in position and mark on the sheet where the holes should be.
3) Move the beam and drill holes in the sheet.
4) Lay a thick bead of outdoor sealant under the beam and place it so that it matches the holes.
5) Fasten the beam with regular wood screws, about 120mm.
The fascia profile might work. The disadvantage of having wide ridges is that more water will run on the pressure-treated beams, but if you choose NTR AB they should last at least 20 years in water, so it might not be a problem.
So actually, would regular trapeze 20 be better?
Ok but screwing etc. will become a small project but hard to make it simpler right?
How would you solve posts for fencing...
Can you imagine posts attached to the deck's floor joists and then let the fence start just above the metal so water can drain off the metal.
I was thinking of horizontal 45x45 timbers as a fence.
Can you imagine posts attached to the deck's floor joists and then let the fence start just above the metal so water can drain off the metal.
I was thinking of horizontal 45x45 timbers as a fence.