Option 2 is probably better in terms of moisture protection for the facade.
With boards low down close to the ground, there will inevitably be a prolonged/constant high moisture load at the bottom edge. This can be counteracted with a construction featuring a replaceable sacrificial board at the very bottom.
I have just replaced the lower part (70-80 cm) of the vertical cladding on the barn as it was in such shabby condition that it no longer properly protected the sill. I tarred the new cladding boards so they can better resist moisture. I am forced to let them go down almost all the way to ground level because the sill is located there. (The ground level has slowly but surely risen over the approximately 100 years since the barn was built.)
I believe that solid screws down into the Leca blocks or the seams are sufficient to keep the sill in place. If the construction is heavy enough by itself, no anchoring should be needed. (Our old barn just stands right on the stone foundation. The barn is not a heavy building per se since it is just a shell with walls and a roof (metal). However, the framework timber is old, rough, and compact/heavy, but not more so than that one can easily lift a wall with the leverage effect of a regular crowbar.)
With boards low down close to the ground, there will inevitably be a prolonged/constant high moisture load at the bottom edge. This can be counteracted with a construction featuring a replaceable sacrificial board at the very bottom.
I have just replaced the lower part (70-80 cm) of the vertical cladding on the barn as it was in such shabby condition that it no longer properly protected the sill. I tarred the new cladding boards so they can better resist moisture. I am forced to let them go down almost all the way to ground level because the sill is located there. (The ground level has slowly but surely risen over the approximately 100 years since the barn was built.)
I believe that solid screws down into the Leca blocks or the seams are sufficient to keep the sill in place. If the construction is heavy enough by itself, no anchoring should be needed. (Our old barn just stands right on the stone foundation. The barn is not a heavy building per se since it is just a shell with walls and a roof (metal). However, the framework timber is old, rough, and compact/heavy, but not more so than that one can easily lift a wall with the leverage effect of a regular crowbar.)
Ok, what kind of blocks can you get away with at the lowest cost? If you still want to anchor with some form of iron in the concrete footing up through the blocks, is there a simple method?
Would it work with threaded rod going down into the concrete slab with a washer and nut, and then just drilling holes through leca or blocks, for example, blocks with holes in them?
Would it work with threaded rod going down into the concrete slab with a washer and nut, and then just drilling holes through leca or blocks, for example, blocks with holes in them?
My tip: Cast a slab on a solid base, see other threads, build up two or more layers of Leca blocks, place the sill which should not be treated, drill diagonally down through the sill in a few places with a 6 millimeter concrete drill, fill in some wet concrete and hammer in short pieces of rebar, and you can relax and listen to the worst west coast storm.
A concrete slab feels like a major overkill in this case. It was meant to be a cheap garden shed. I would have settled for laying down a weed barrier on the ground, a thin layer of bedding sand for leveling, and then cheap concrete pavers. The wall can be made of studs/posts standing in pillars. A treated board at the bottom.
I think that a concrete slab provides completely different possibilities in the future, and maybe that's where I should spend a bit more on the construction. Digging out for posts, etc., is also quite a bit of work.
What I'm still considering is how to deal with the roof joists, metal roofing or paper, joist dimensions, etc....
What I'm still considering is how to deal with the roof joists, metal roofing or paper, joist dimensions, etc....
Absolutely a thought...
What are the pros and cons of this?
What are the pros and cons of this?
Homeowner
· Älvsborg
· 2 270 posts
Oh, so many knowledgeable and intelligent people here sharing their knowledge. Very interesting reading.
I am not knowledgeable enough myself to dare to try to help the OP with anything other than to suggest he/she stand firm and build big.
The only thing I know about balconies and patios is that no matter how big they are, you always think your own balcony/patio is too small when sitting on it. It’s the same thing as with many other things
the bigger the better.
I am not knowledgeable enough myself to dare to try to help the OP with anything other than to suggest he/she stand firm and build big.
The only thing I know about balconies and patios is that no matter how big they are, you always think your own balcony/patio is too small when sitting on it. It’s the same thing as with many other things
the bigger the better.I agree, that's why I posted the question here in the first place. I think there's an enormous amount of knowledge to be gained here!
Certainly, it's not something talked about openly, but size matters
Certainly, it's not something talked about openly, but size matters
How would one construct with plastic roofing?
What is the lifespan of plastic compared to metal?
What is the lifespan of plastic compared to metal?
What about raw boards/tar paper versus sheet metal?
You insist that I should plane the edges of the studs so they fit under the sheet metal, how is this done most easily?
You insist that I should plane the edges of the studs so they fit under the sheet metal, how is this done most easily?
A router is a simple way to remove about 5x5 mm on each side of the ridge's top.
But when I think about it, this might be done even more simply. If you build with 5.5m long 220x90 (two screw-glued treated beams with CC 1042.5, it should be possible to place sloping 1m wide sheets between the beams. This way, you avoid all the routing and the beams can be constructed without slope. However, you should use 35mm decking to handle the longer CC distance.
However, you won't get a tight sheet roof this way, since the shed's roof will be alternating between wood and sheet.
But when I think about it, this might be done even more simply. If you build with 5.5m long 220x90 (two screw-glued treated beams with CC 1042.5, it should be possible to place sloping 1m wide sheets between the beams. This way, you avoid all the routing and the beams can be constructed without slope. However, you should use 35mm decking to handle the longer CC distance.
However, you won't get a tight sheet roof this way, since the shed's roof will be alternating between wood and sheet.
Mmm it doesn't feel good that the metal roof isn't becoming waterproof, does it?
It probably depends on the requirements you have for the storage.. if you're mostly going to have bikes, firewood, and garden furniture there, it doesn't really matter if a little moisture gets in. And if you install a sub-ceiling of oil-hardened board, there won't be any dripping into the storage either from condensation or from water that has run askew.