Claystone - insulation value?

[Sommartorparn]

The lambda value of the walls is already so poor that surface moisture won't have an impact. Heat leakage from inside during autumn/winter/spring will also "dry out" the walls continuously.

It's not potential surface moisture that's the danger but moisture inside the walls, water leakage that you cannot see but may have been ongoing for years. For example, near windows, under gable panels, and beneath the eaves. This type of moisture in the wall cools the house and gradually dissolves the clay brick. These are the areas you might discover when you remove Tretex and loose plaster inside.

 

[Sommartorparn]

You can use this for interior insulation. https://sundabyggvaror.se/produkt/skivor/ler-och-trafiberskivor/trafiberskivor/claytec-hfd-internal/

 

[13th Marine]

Wouldn't a short "hanband/hanbjälke" work then?
Strengthening the upper arms (the rafters) does not solve the problem that the roof load is now taken up on the hammarbandet, which wants to "push outwards" by the rafters.

It should be possible to fit in.
Normally, hanbanden are meant to handle compressive forces, i.e., counteract the upper frame from sagging.

 

[13th Marine]

beautiful farm! The pediment is perfectly fine and makes the attic usable. I would leave it as it is! Environmentally, it's crazy to remove functioning solutions solely for aesthetic reasons!

It all depends on how much we plan to do. If you are going to replace roof trusses, it doesn't matter if the pediment remains.

However, I would absolutely refrain from slapping on external insulation as it would distort the house's proportions! If you absolutely want to insulate, it can be done internally. For example, building an interior wall of Leca, filling the gap with perlite. Or applying clay plaster in which you plaster a thick Tretex board. There are several different solutions that work with this type of house.

The house is already narrow as it is with 4.8m between the walls, I would like to avoid internal insulation.

You write that there is a large wall area on a Skånelänga, but there is also a lot of windows! I would think the biggest heat loss occurs upwards! That's where I would insulate first.

Roof and floor are relatively easy to insulate, which means that if you insulate these, the walls will account for about 70% of the heat loss.

Then there's the issue with windows. Nothing deforms an old house like modern windows! You can achieve a lot through renovation and energy efficiency of the existing windows. I see that the windows are not original. But if the wood is okay, you can have them rebuilt with glazing bars to come closer to the old look.

It's already too late, the windows have been replaced with modern ones.

 

[Sommartorparn]

It all depends on how much we plan to do. If you're going to replace roof trusses, it won't matter if the bay window is retained.

The house is already narrow as it is with 4.8m between the walls, so I'd like to avoid interior insulation.

Roof and floor are relatively easy to insulate, which means that if you insulate these, the walls will account for about 70% of the heat loss.

It is already too late, the windows have been replaced with modern ones.

You'll have a more useful upper floor if the bay window is retained!

If you insulate externally, you must move out windows and doors so the house doesn't look hollow. And extend the roof overhang! Yes, you noticed yourself that it's not a small measure if you want to make it look nice! The living space you lose by insulating internally, you gain back by keeping the bay window.

 

[13th Marine]

You'll have a more useful upper floor if the frontispiece remains!

Definitely! Then the question is if one actually needs those spaces 🙂

If you're going to insulate externally, you need to move out the windows and doors so that the house doesn't look hollow. And extend the roof eaves! Yes, you did notice yourself that these are not small measures if you want to make it look nice! The living space you lose by insulating internally you gain back by keeping the frontispiece.

Yes, it's not supposed to be easy.
But spontaneously, I would rather have spaces on the ground floor than in the attic 🤔

 

[Microkatten]

I thought about how it was when we moved into our old house over 10 years ago. Like you, I dealt with theoretical U-values and thought that the walls were weak energy-wise.

For the first space we renovated, I drew up nice wall designs with a separate, inner stud wall and plenty of insulation. Half-timbered walls felt more like an aesthetically beautiful surface than a modern energy-efficient wall.

We also did the renovation according to these ideas. Much turned out well, but with more experience, I wouldn't have invested so much time, money, and effort into the insulation aspect, and would have done it completely differently if I did it today.

 

[13th Marine]

Yes, I like to think and ponder, and I run back and forth with my thoughts looking for opportunities and solutions.

My thread start about the insulation value is one such excursion.

 

[jawen]

Yes, I like to ponder and think, and run here and there with my thoughts, looking for possibilities and solutions.

My thread about insulation value is such an excursion.

Are the current windows something you will keep, or are they "done for"?
How are the ground conditions under the house/exterior walls/surroundings?
Draining, constantly moist?

A fundamentally good thing is to divert all rainwater away from the roof.
This can be done with ground pipes & buried water cassettes with ground cloth around, ground pipes from all outlets that lead away to various placed buried water cassettes.

This helps enormously!
Mine are at a depth of 2 m & the cassettes are 60 cm high, so they start at 1.4 m below ground (driveable).

 

[13th Marine]

Are the current windows something you will keep, or have they "had their day"?

Haven't delved deep into these, windows are relatively easy to replace.
I have a soft spot for the flag windows from 1913.

How are the ground conditions under the house/outer walls/surroundings?
Draining, constantly damp?

Probably fairly draining.

A fundamentally good thing is to divert all rainwater from the roof.
This can be done with ground pipes & buried water cassettes with ground cloth around, ground pipes from all spouts that lead away to different placed buried water cassettes.

The plan is to drain and divert stormwater; there should be a dedicated stormwater pipe that leads further to a ditch.