Hi!
I've insulated the attic with Hunton. I want to install the cheapest possible ceiling that is vapor permeable. Any ideas?
 
You still want to limit the amount of moisture that penetrates into the attic. It doesn't matter what you've insulated with. Even Hunton wood fiber insulation will mold from too much moisture over too long of a period, and the moisture level in the attic is always too high because of the climate we have.
So, a vapor barrier is needed. Then you can install any roof you want. I believe there is felt with vapor barrier effect.
 
Oldboy Oldboy said:
You still want to limit the amount of moisture that penetrates the attic. It doesn't matter what you have insulated with. Even Hunton wood fiber insulation will mold from too much moisture over too long a period, and the humidity level in the attic is always too high due to the climate we have.
So, a vapor barrier is needed. Then you can put on any roof you want. I believe there are papers with vapor barrier effects.
Both vapor barrier and Hunton insulation are in place. I want tips on a cheap ceiling that "breathes."
 
A vapor barrier or vapor retarder is something you have because the interior ceiling normally allows moisture to pass through. It's probably easier to find interior ceilings that let moisture through than those that do not. What appearance do you want for the ceiling? It works with both plasterboard and wood paneling.
 
A Avemo said:
Steam brakes or vapor barrier is something used because the ceiling otherwise normally lets moisture through. It's probably easier to find ceilings that let moisture through than those that don't. What appearance do you want for the ceiling? Both plaster and wood paneling work.
Anything that looks decent. I think plasterboard looks a bit dull in a living room. Maybe some other type of board?
 
J johannalundgren1 said:
Both steam brake and hunton insulation are in place. I want tips on a cheap inner ceiling that "breathes".
Is there any inner ceiling that is considered diffusion-tight?
 
The type of ceiling in living rooms depends on what it can be attached to, the distance between ceiling joists, and of course, personal preferences. If there are sturdy old beautiful ceiling beams, one might want them to be visible.

I claim that the cheapest option is a board ceiling that is nailed up. You can use boards with or without a tongue and groove. Tongue and groove boards are not available in wider sizes in standard assortments, so if you want wider boards, regular fascia boards (non-tongue and groove) work well.

Other types of ceilings are thin flimsy short boards/sheets, as well as plasterboards. They all have the problem that they require a subceiling of boards to attach to; otherwise, there are additional costs for battens and nails/screws and possibly special fasteners, which tend to be expensive. This makes the price per square meter of ceiling generally higher or much higher than a simple board ceiling. Screws are more expensive than nails and much more visible in the finished ceiling while being quite unsightly. If you want to hide them, spackle or special fasteners are needed.
 
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