Sawed our pre-painted moldings with a lousy handsaw (which almost went out the door several times!), both corners and joints, not a splinter that I can see. I fixed any small gaps in the corners with a bit of painter's caulk. I can mention that it was actually the first time I used a handsaw and the first time I cut my own moldings and put them in place 
Continuing my bump campaign!
How does caulking on pre-painted moldings hold up after a few years? I suspect that a) the caulk becomes broad, i.e., it spreads out to a 'finger's width' when you smooth it out with your finger, and b) it collects dust. Is that correct?
It feels a bit excessive to tape before caulking.
How does caulking on pre-painted moldings hold up after a few years? I suspect that a) the caulk becomes broad, i.e., it spreads out to a 'finger's width' when you smooth it out with your finger, and b) it collects dust. Is that correct?
It feels a bit excessive to tape before caulking.
As the workshop guru wrote, nothing strange.
But when you mitre pre-painted white moldings and you get the mitre perfect, there is still a stubborn black line. That's when I usually apply a strip of latex caulk, wipe it off with a wet dishcloth, and then I only paint the mitre with a bit of paint.
But when you mitre pre-painted white moldings and you get the mitre perfect, there is still a stubborn black line. That's when I usually apply a strip of latex caulk, wipe it off with a wet dishcloth, and then I only paint the mitre with a bit of paint.
I will give you some tips that I've come up with after listing windows and doors full-time for 12 years.
1. Store the trims at room temperature for a few days before use.
2. Be meticulous when cutting.
3. Always glue the miter.
4. And finally, the magic.... throw away the latex filler and buy yourself a pica gel white wax pen!
Rub the wax over the miter and nail holes.
Wipe off with baby wipes!
The result will be tip-top!
1. Store the trims at room temperature for a few days before use.
2. Be meticulous when cutting.
3. Always glue the miter.
4. And finally, the magic.... throw away the latex filler and buy yourself a pica gel white wax pen!
Rub the wax over the miter and nail holes.
Wipe off with baby wipes!
The result will be tip-top!
Available on the web:
http://www.gss-ab.com/se/art/pica-gel-markpenna.php
https://www.velltra.se/produkt/markpenna-pica-gel-vit/
http://www.lindqvist-msk.se/produkt.php?art=89330
Googled "pica gel vit"
http://www.gss-ab.com/se/art/pica-gel-markpenna.php
https://www.velltra.se/produkt/markpenna-pica-gel-vit/
http://www.lindqvist-msk.se/produkt.php?art=89330
Googled "pica gel vit"
Smearing sealant where it shouldn't be is never really good, so seal carefully so there isn't much excess.-MH- said:Continuing my bump campaign!
What happens with sealant on pre-painted moldings after a few years. I suspect that a) the sealant becomes wide, meaning it spreads out a 'finger width' when you smooth it with a finger, and b) it collects dust. Is that correct?
It feels a bit excessive to tape before sealing.
Apply the sealant in the gaps and chips that need to be concealed, then finish by carefully wiping away sealant from surfaces that shouldn't have it (i.e., the painted surfaces on a pre-painted molding) with a damp cloth.
Yes, it is indeed a bit tricky to work with acrylic sealant, so much so that it's actually better to aim to be precise in the earlier stages so that as little sealant as possible is needed.
Finished trim can be good if a skilled and patient carpenter assembles it.......but the final result is not at all comparable to painted-in trim.
The first can be considered assembly, and the latter as a craft, and prefabricated is what is demanded today. With quick, prefabricated assembly, unfortunately, come the issues that this thread refers to.
The first can be considered assembly, and the latter as a craft, and prefabricated is what is demanded today. With quick, prefabricated assembly, unfortunately, come the issues that this thread refers to.
It is definitely possible to achieve good results with pre-painted moldings. In our multi-residential projects, we use a company that exclusively handles the molding installation. Usually pre-painted 0500-N. It turns out great. Those who are the fastest complete about 1.5 apartments per day (around 80 m2).
I glue because it holds the joint together. Wood moves but with gluing it does not split during the seasons. Even if you get a perfect joint there will be a black line or maybe a half mm gap, with the pencil you fill all the gaps and holes after the nail gun. Rub in the wax and wipe off with a wet wipe/baby wipe.