The moldings in our newly built house are anything but beautiful. The mitering is sloppy to say the least. The wood has splintered and it doesn't matter if you paint over it, it's still clearly visible (the builder's only action after it was noted during the inspection). Now, the builder thinks he is "finished" and blames it on the fact that the moldings were pre-painted, which apparently causes the wood to splinter. Is he really right? I can't believe any home supplier with a clear conscience could sell it in that case.
 
nooo the builder is not right if you have the right blade on the miter saw = fine-toothed, then it will be nice.
 
As I suspected ... thanks for the answer! Do you know how this can be fixed afterwards? The builder has sanded some corner before painting (better but still not nice). Feels like we'll have to fix it ourselves in the end ... If you sand, how and with what do you sand? What to consider when choosing paint? (Besides the obvious of choosing the right color, something our builder didn't manage).
 
The only thing that helps now is to sand - filler - sand - paint - paint In that order I would think!
 
Finklinga and if you want to be even more cautious you can tape over the cut as well
 
Painter's caulk hides most things.

/Kent
 
It never becomes perfect with a miter saw, no matter how fine it is - it must be exactly the same angle every time you turn the saw (and you can forget that on a saw that can be turned in all directions) and in addition, the door frames are never perfectly mounted. The nicest "listkopplingar" I've only seen on pre-cut moldings from the factory delivered together with doors. Unfortunately, the remedy is painter's caulk and painting.
 
are you insane or what?
FOG???
get it together, that builder isn't a carpenter.
you don't use fog.
if you cut wrong or it splinters, you take a new list. that's it.
the reason it splinters is as follows: dull blade, he's cutting too fast and that's why it splinters.
never installed correctly? what do you mean, vagabond? you can only install it one way, straight!!

of course it looks good if you do it right and the miter and cut saw becomes precise no matter how you use it and turn it.
then someone has been careless with it and needs adjusting.

summary: can you post a picture?
NO FOG.
if you see a carpenter with fog on his pants, he's not a carpenter. just someone who doesn't know his stuff and tries to cover it up with a lot of goop and paint.

regards,
snickar estwing

sorry for my writing but I'm disappointed in such a so-called craftsman who charges and doesn't do his job right.
 
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Joak
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Sawing so it splinters is no problem. But when you miter pre-painted white moldings and get the miter perfect, you still end up with a black line. That's when I usually apply a bead of latex caulk, wipe it off with a wet dishcloth, and then paint only the miter with a little paint.

Carpenter Estwing... It's actually not a rosy world we live in... in old houses with tretex, twelve layers of wallpaper, four layers of paint, etc., I would say even you don't succeed 100% of the time. It has also been proven that customers are willing to pay for quality, but they are not willing to pay for over-quality. That is, I can make a molding or a miter 110% perfect by spending an extra 20 minutes on it, but the customer is only willing to pay for almost 100%.
 
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verktygsgurun said:
Sawing so it chips is really not a problem.
But when you're mitering pre-painted white moldings and you get the mitering perfect, there still ends up being a black line. That's when I usually run a bead of latex caulk, wash it off with a damp dishcloth, and then only paint the miter with a little bit of paint.

Carpenter Estwing...It's actually not a rosy world we live in...in old houses with tretex, twelve layers of wallpaper, 4 layers of paint, etc., I'd like to say that even you don't succeed 100% of the time.
It's proven that customers are willing to pay for quality, but they are not willing to pay for over-quality. Meaning, I can get a molding or miter 110% good by spending an extra 20 minutes on it, but the customer is only willing to pay for almost 100%.
I belong to the 110% category.
It has to be good. That's how you create a customer base.
Regarding tretex, etc., that's not what we're talking about, but rather how the listing is.
I know that the walls ARE not straight, etc., but the listing and chipping MUST be perfect.
Then that the molding doesn't lie against the wall in certain places was not the question here.

Then you're absolutely right that there becomes a thin black line in the miter, there must be, there you can apply some touch-up paint thinly.
But it must NOT chip.
Regards
carpenter estwing
 
snickarboden said:
Painter's caulk hides most things.

/Kent
But it looks like hell after construction cleaning...
 
I replaced all the floor moldings and door casings last summer in the house. I did paint the moldings myself, i.e., didn't buy pre-painted ones (thriftiness...). I did all the miter cuts with my 707. There isn't a single chip... If there's a gap, it's not because of the saw, but because a 90-degree corner in a house is rarely 90.0 degrees, i.e., if I miter two moldings at 45 degrees and the corner is 90.5 degrees, there might be a little gap. But the builder you've hired probably has an ÖB saw, I would guess.
 
When the fine details need to be fixed, you must use proper equipment. In this case, a new blade, also known as listklinga for the 707 an in my setup.

Mitre disc !!
 
Agree with you Estwing, I am also the type of carpenter who continues to add a little love when many others would have been satisfied...and cutting so it doesn't chip isn't difficult even with a half-worn blade. But I usually use målarfog/latexfog to fill in the hole that appears if you nail the moldings, and then dab a little paint on top of it...then it becomes 110%.
 
How do you handle the nails/screws... I am not satisfied with less than filling them twice and painting at least twice, the last coat I apply over the entire trim including any lines at the miters.
 
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