Building a timber wall in a hobby room

[Harleydavid2]

Hello, I am going to build a paneling wall in our hobby room. Will standard 17x95 work or should I opt for 20-22 mm?

Should the paneling be nailed with two rows of nails or is one sufficient? Or alternatively, can I angle-screw it like when installing flooring?

 

[huggan]

Would recommend two nails per board, otherwise they bend a lot.

17*95 will do fine.

 

[Harleydavid2]

Thank you Huggan!

 

[KnockOnWood]

I would recommend two nails per board, otherwise, they bend a lot...

This must be a misunderstanding. Why would the wall paneling "bend"?

I have a small stable that is paneled inside with regular 22x95 mm raw plank.
It is nailed in the tongue, so one nail per board and stud.
You can faintly see the nail (or rather the brad) where the raw plank has dried and separated a bit.
Nailing with two nails is unnecessary and also looks bad.

I have 22 mm raw plank to prevent the horses from kicking through the walls, otherwise, 17 mm would have been sufficient.

Screwing hidden in the tongue also works perfectly.
I recommend this screw:

http://www.gunnebofastening.se/sv-SE/Fastening/Produkter/Skruv/Listskruv/Golv-sockelskruv/
42 mm is suitable.

 

[huggan]

Common råspont is not dried very much, so when it comes into a warm house, the boards easily become concave, so it's better with two nails per board; this applies to visible nailing.

 

[KnockOnWood]

Ordinary untreated wood is not dried much, so when it comes into a warm house, the boards easily become concave, so it's better with two nails per board, this applies to visible nailing.

There are no concave boards in my barn at all.
This should apply to every roof as well.

Where do you buy your timber?

 

[huggan]

Is your stable and roof heated to 20+?

Bro Sågverk was where it was purchased.

 

[KnockOnWood]

Yes.
Rather +30°C now in the summer

 

[Finndjävel]

It's clear that they can warp a bit when they come indoors, becoming either concave or convex. The sawmill doesn't have time to turn the boards before they go into the planer, so the core side can end up facing any direction.

However, 95mm boards are so narrow that it will almost certainly not be noticeable. I also don't really believe that two nails would hold the board to prevent it from contracting. I definitely think you should use the tongue-and-groove when you have the opportunity to hide the fastening. Two large nail heads at each fastening point will look terrible after all. I screwed my wall panel 18x145 in the tongue-and-groove and it hasn't warped visibly at least.