Yes, I got a quote before I built my door... they wanted 25tover... for a pair of exterior doors with transom and oak frame. So I built it myself, although oak isn't cheap, so the whole thing ended up costing around 10´ but that also included a pair of interior doors... the transom isn't finished... I haven't had time, the material is lying there and needs to be routed, my wife was tasked with cutting out the glass to make "Tiffany glass" so the ball is in her court 
I probably need to take the ball back if it's ever going to get done...
I probably need to take the ball back if it's ever going to get done...
What is meant by "överluft"?
You don't happen to have some pictures of the construction?
You don't happen to have some pictures of the construction?
Now the upload worked...
Image from the inside: with the inner door and outer door
Image from the outside: I am in the process of building a roof over the door so that one can exit through the door that can be glimpsed at the top of the image. There will be a small balcony so one can go out from the bathroom.
There will then be 2 windows over the door with two upright mullions so the panes become about 20x20cm and 6 in total, right now there are some boards covering the opening.
A beautiful plastic under the door will become a copper sheet when it's finished.
But this is the door to the residential house; I have written earlier in the thread about the door to the workshop... Best to clarify so it doesn't get mixed up.
Image from the inside: with the inner door and outer door
Image from the outside: I am in the process of building a roof over the door so that one can exit through the door that can be glimpsed at the top of the image. There will be a small balcony so one can go out from the bathroom.
There will then be 2 windows over the door with two upright mullions so the panes become about 20x20cm and 6 in total, right now there are some boards covering the opening.
A beautiful plastic under the door will become a copper sheet when it's finished.
But this is the door to the residential house; I have written earlier in the thread about the door to the workshop... Best to clarify so it doesn't get mixed up.
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Thank you for taking the time to upload the pictures. They really look nice.
Can you describe a little more in depth how you built these?
Can you describe a little more in depth how you built these?
Thank you...
Yes, one should probably have drawings to be able to explain fully...
But I will try to explain. I don't have a planer, so I do everything with standard dimensions.
First, I made the door leaf itself with 5mm plywood glued on either side of a 30mm hard insulation, it's important to lay everything properly flat when gluing the pieces together, otherwise the door becomes warped.
Then I have a door leaf that is 40mm. The frame around it I glued together from 4 pieces 2 pieces 15x75 and 2 pieces 20x45.
The 75s are on the outside and the 45s on the inside, creating a small rabbet where the door leaf can be inserted.
Then the bottom pieces are made with the center pieces longer and the side pieces are cut so they can be slotted into each other. These doors then have two pieces that lay over and under where the lock is situated, and they are just glued and screwed on top of the plywood to avoid a thermal bridge.
Then the swing door is a little wider than the fixed one, but two strips on the swing door make it look as if the door leaves are the same width. I glued the pieces together, then had to rout the groove a bit to be able to insert the door leaf.
Yes, then there are reinforcements inside the door leaf where the lock is mounted and in the frame around to be able to use machine screws. Yes, then the frame is in oak.
Hope it's understandable... Otherwise, I'll have to try to put together some drawings...
Yes, one should probably have drawings to be able to explain fully...
But I will try to explain. I don't have a planer, so I do everything with standard dimensions.
First, I made the door leaf itself with 5mm plywood glued on either side of a 30mm hard insulation, it's important to lay everything properly flat when gluing the pieces together, otherwise the door becomes warped.
Then I have a door leaf that is 40mm. The frame around it I glued together from 4 pieces 2 pieces 15x75 and 2 pieces 20x45.
The 75s are on the outside and the 45s on the inside, creating a small rabbet where the door leaf can be inserted.
Then the bottom pieces are made with the center pieces longer and the side pieces are cut so they can be slotted into each other. These doors then have two pieces that lay over and under where the lock is situated, and they are just glued and screwed on top of the plywood to avoid a thermal bridge.
Then the swing door is a little wider than the fixed one, but two strips on the swing door make it look as if the door leaves are the same width. I glued the pieces together, then had to rout the groove a bit to be able to insert the door leaf.
Yes, then there are reinforcements inside the door leaf where the lock is mounted and in the frame around to be able to use machine screws. Yes, then the frame is in oak.
Hope it's understandable... Otherwise, I'll have to try to put together some drawings...
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 2 563 posts
Hijacking the thread a bit to say that the ceiling looks interesting (in the picture taken from the inside). Is there a description of that ceiling somewhere, and if so, would you mind linking to it?Krillew said:
Have created a new thread about the ceiling
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/173195-innertak-med-retro-kaensla.html
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/173195-innertak-med-retro-kaensla.html
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I am planning to build a sliding interior door with dimensions 1200x2700. Unfortunately, it cannot be thicker than 50mm and should be as light as possible. The surface should be smooth oiled oak veneer.
Can I build the door following the same principle as the builder describes, or will it be too unstable?
Can I build the door following the same principle as the builder describes, or will it be too unstable?
I built the sliding door to my workshop with a frame around it and metal studs to reduce the weight, and filled it with Styrofoam boards and glued oil-tempered hardboard on the inside and outside. I made the door 70mm, but 50mm probably works just fine too. It hangs in the upper piece; you just have to ensure that the fittings can support the weight.
Yes, it should work. The question is whether I can find such thin steel studs. Furthermore, it won't hang in the classic sliding door manner but will instead stand on a track in the floor built into the wall. The track ends where the wall ends, and the entire construction therefore needs a counterweight to be able to "float" freely when closed. I don't yet know if it's possible to achieve a stable solution for this, but it will be a test project. The reason it can't be ceiling-mounted is that it needs to function as a divider in a corridor, and the ceiling has a 6-degree slope, so the door would also need to be cut at an angle at the top. The idea is that when the door is open, you shouldn't be able to see that it exists.
That sounds fancy..
yes, 45 brackets must be in sheet metal, but it is probably smartest to take the same thickness for the bracket as for the frigolit if you choose to build that way, it becomes light and stable. It will be most stable with the hardest possible frigolit. It also becomes soundproofing. If it's just a room divider, you don't need to think about break-in protection, i.e., a thin strip around the edge is enough. You might use some form of sliding track that hooks onto the door at the top when you open it.. If you want to have weight, it has to go with it..
I did a similar solution but upside down.. on one of my interior doors, it hangs at the top, but at the bottom, I milled a groove and embedded a U-channel in metal that sticks out at the back of the door, so the guidance at the bottom sits inside the wall, where there is a 10mm ball bearing and the opening in the channel is a few mm larger. Works great, something like that might work for you, but you'll need more than one ball bearing since the track won't go all the way, so it must be able to "jump" between the bearings.
yes, 45 brackets must be in sheet metal, but it is probably smartest to take the same thickness for the bracket as for the frigolit if you choose to build that way, it becomes light and stable. It will be most stable with the hardest possible frigolit. It also becomes soundproofing. If it's just a room divider, you don't need to think about break-in protection, i.e., a thin strip around the edge is enough. You might use some form of sliding track that hooks onto the door at the top when you open it.. If you want to have weight, it has to go with it..
I did a similar solution but upside down..
on one of my interior doors, it hangs at the top, but at the bottom, I milled a groove and embedded a U-channel in metal that sticks out at the back of the door, so the guidance at the bottom sits inside the wall, where there is a 10mm ball bearing and the opening in the channel is a few mm larger. Works great, something like that might work for you, but you'll need more than one ball bearing since the track won't go all the way, so it must be able to "jump" between the bearings.It sounds almost identical to how I had planned to solve it. As for the rule, it should probably be around 35 mm if you want to end up at 50 with sheet material and veneer. I'll have to check what dimensions are available. I'll report back during the construction process. Thanks for the tips!