Thank you for the response. By tracks on the outside, I mean on the rule of the frame that sits against the wall. I know that grooves are cut on floor planks, for example. The treated timber I would only have for the threshold. It would be expensive with teak.
Do not know what the track you've seen is for. But I'm convinced that there is someone here who knows if there is any function for it.
It can't be a track for a rubber strip that has "fallen" off, right?
The pressed wood will only be left as firewood. Thresholds should withstand a lot of wear and tear, which regular or pressed wood doesn't.
I use an oak threshold. Check the link and you'll see the hardness of different types of wood. http://www.kahrs.se/SE/Consumer/Support/TechInfo/FloorFacts/Pages/Hardness.aspx
There is a very big difference between pine and oak.
You were going to make swinging doors. Are you going to drive the car in there?
If so, I would avoid using wood anyway. Metal is probably best.
My dad has an angle iron embedded in the slab that works as a threshold. A rabbet on the door too.
It can't be a track for a rubber strip that has "fallen" off, right?
The pressed wood will only be left as firewood. Thresholds should withstand a lot of wear and tear, which regular or pressed wood doesn't.
I use an oak threshold. Check the link and you'll see the hardness of different types of wood. http://www.kahrs.se/SE/Consumer/Support/TechInfo/FloorFacts/Pages/Hardness.aspx
There is a very big difference between pine and oak.
You were going to make swinging doors. Are you going to drive the car in there?
If so, I would avoid using wood anyway. Metal is probably best.
My dad has an angle iron embedded in the slab that works as a threshold. A rabbet on the door too.
The outside of the frame is usually grooved on both windows and doors to prevent the wood from "warping."
You can place an angle iron on the edge of the threshold to reinforce if you're determined to use pine..
I have pine in the woodwork myself but haven't had time to insert a metal angle. But it's a must if you choose pine, unless, of course, you enjoy making thresholds..
You can place an angle iron on the edge of the threshold to reinforce if you're determined to use pine..
I have pine in the woodwork myself but haven't had time to insert a metal angle. But it's a must if you choose pine, unless, of course, you enjoy making thresholds..
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It will probably be angle iron, now it's just a matter of having enough time. Also need to drain and insulate the house, but summer has just begun.
Yes, there are metal strips that are used as finishing for floors... they are often a bit rounded, an angle iron can be quite sharp. But of course, the most durable, because the others are usually made of aluminum.
Hello,
I'm planning to build a pair of exterior doors for my house according to the Builder's instructions. Can someone give some tips on how I can make it more burglar-proof? Maybe a metal sheet between the studs and the k-plywood? I would appreciate any tips.
I'm planning to build a pair of exterior doors for my house according to the Builder's instructions. Can someone give some tips on how I can make it more burglar-proof? Maybe a metal sheet between the studs and the k-plywood? I would appreciate any tips.
I am using 5mm plywood and it's quite difficult to breach. Sure, you can glue an aluminum sheet, but it doesn't make much difference. It does make it harder to kick down the door, but a hatchet can breach an aluminum sheet quite easily. And there are cheap battery-powered circular saws... The advantage of having aluminum is that it becomes quite form-stable. I have 5mm plywood glued on both sides of a foam core, and I chose to use hard foam, which makes the door more difficult to kick down. Then I made extra reinforcements at the lock and hinges. I have embedded threaded inserts so you can use machine screws instead of wood screws. The door is significantly more difficult to breach than any of the windows...
Do you mean that you attach locks and hinges with machine screws? Are these the "extra reinforcements at locks and hinges" or have you made additional reinforcements?
What do these nut pieces look like?
A 3 mm metal sheet should still stop the occasional circular saw and maybe even an axe for a few minutes.
What do these nut pieces look like?
A 3 mm metal sheet should still stop the occasional circular saw and maybe even an axe for a few minutes.
Self-builder
· Stockholm
· 8 589 posts
Think about more than just the door!brettan said:
An axe or circular saw - well then someone is determined to get in - regardless of how much noise it makes - then we're not talking about an ordinary burglary anymore.
Moreover, it would probably be quicker/easier to smash a window - so if you need a door that withstands this, then you probably already have iron bars on all windows + reinforced balcony door, right?!
No - the goal must be to stop a kick, show some resistance to a crowbar and possibly a sledgehammer - more than that seems like a bit too much overkill!?
/K
A 3mm steel plate would make the door very heavy.. I believe that most exterior doors are reinforced with 1mm aluminum.
Yes, the nut piece... a 5mm thick flat bar behind where the hinges are to be mounted, and I have drilled holes and threaded it. Similarly, on the exterior of the frame, I have countersunk a steel plate that I have threaded for machine screws.
The same goes for where the lock is located; there's a little extra reinforcement there...
I reason that it should withstand a pry bar. If you use machine screws and a plate on the backside, you won't just pry away the screws...instead, you would have to destroy the frame and break down the door to get in... It would be quicker to use a battery-powered reciprocating saw or something similar.
Or smash a window.
Yes, the nut piece... a 5mm thick flat bar behind where the hinges are to be mounted, and I have drilled holes and threaded it. Similarly, on the exterior of the frame, I have countersunk a steel plate that I have threaded for machine screws.
The same goes for where the lock is located; there's a little extra reinforcement there...
I reason that it should withstand a pry bar. If you use machine screws and a plate on the backside, you won't just pry away the screws...instead, you would have to destroy the frame and break down the door to get in... It would be quicker to use a battery-powered reciprocating saw or something similar.
Or smash a window.
Backplates improve burglary resistance somewhat and are cheap. But as mentioned, anything that can withstand a kick or a small crowbar can be considered okay. All exterior doors on the private market, even security doors like Daloc class 3 and 4, can be broken with two crowbars and a handheld sledgehammer in under a minute. I've done it, though it makes a lot of noise. My thought regarding security is that even if someone gets in, doors and larger windows should be locked so that they can't be opened from the inside. It should be damn difficult to carry things out.
/kato
/kato
Really interesting reading about making your own front doors.
What do insurance companies actually say about these?
What do insurance companies actually say about these?
I haven't checked with my company, but my guess is that the insurance companies are perfectly fine with it if it's a well-made door. As previously mentioned, there are no problems entering a house through windows. I just want to make it as uninviting as possible, and it's good to consider the things discussed here. I would probably opt to insert a metal sheet in the door, as it doesn't cost much and reinforces the door significantly.
How insurance companies view things is unfortunately not always guided by common sense. It would really be fun to have a door you created yourself. It would probably also be much safer than many cheaper doors available for purchase today.