Run a dehumidifier. As long as there is both construction moisture remaining that needs to escape and there is no vapor barrier on the inside of the walls, there will naturally be moisture transport out through the wall, which condenses and freezes (at sub-zero temperatures) at the "right place" in the wall. Not much to do about it. In principle, it should be possible to ignore it. Carefully set up the vapor barrier and so on. Then, when summer comes, the vapor pressure that forms in the wall through diffusion should push all moisture out through the windfoil. But I understand it doesn't feel great, I wouldn't like it either.carl16gustaf said:
Thanks for the comments. I'll keep going and keep my fingers crossed that everything goes as it should!
Are there any facade panels that can withstand long exposure without needing to be replaced as is apparently the case with outdoor plasterboard?
I was thinking of having a brick facade on a potential new house but since a brick facade takes quite a long time to build up, it would be practical if that part could be done last, i.e., when the rest of the house is already finished, which could be several years after the frame was erected.
I was thinking of having a brick facade on a potential new house but since a brick facade takes quite a long time to build up, it would be practical if that part could be done last, i.e., when the rest of the house is already finished, which could be several years after the frame was erected.
I am raising this thread again.
I want an answer to the original question, " Asfaboard, exterior gypsum board, or wind barrier?"
But in my case, I'm only debating between Asfaboard or wind barrier (like Windy, T-vind, etc).
I need to finalize the construction NOW! and would like to hear as many opinions as possible about these two materials.
I have used T-vind on the garden shed and Asfa-board on the garage. So I have tried both on a smaller scale already.
But now it concerns the residential house, 45+195+45 mm cross-batten insulated wooden frame construction. OSB or particle board + gypsum on the inside, chosen wind barrier + nail battens + wood paneling + natural pigment paint on the exterior.
Give me your arguments.
I want an answer to the original question, " Asfaboard, exterior gypsum board, or wind barrier?"
But in my case, I'm only debating between Asfaboard or wind barrier (like Windy, T-vind, etc).
I need to finalize the construction NOW! and would like to hear as many opinions as possible about these two materials.
I have used T-vind on the garden shed and Asfa-board on the garage. So I have tried both on a smaller scale already.
But now it concerns the residential house, 45+195+45 mm cross-batten insulated wooden frame construction. OSB or particle board + gypsum on the inside, chosen wind barrier + nail battens + wood paneling + natural pigment paint on the exterior.
Give me your arguments.
Asfaboard actually insulates a little as well and withstands moisture very well.
Yes, with asfaboard, I believe the wall can remain exposed for a relatively long time without being damaged.
Windproofing fabric should also withstand a fair amount, but I think it's more quickly degraded by the sun.
The windproofing fabric was definitely easier to accidentally tear, which is an increasing risk the longer you leave it without the facade panel.
Windproofing fabric should also withstand a fair amount, but I think it's more quickly degraded by the sun.
The windproofing fabric was definitely easier to accidentally tear, which is an increasing risk the longer you leave it without the facade panel.
Windy
Simple, good, fast, and cheap.
Did it on my previous house and will do it on the one I'm working on now.
Check that the frame is plumb, brace the inside and put windy on the outside,
when you then panel the inside it becomes strong as brännvin.
I personally use metal strips in a cross because I will not panel the inside but will also have råspånt on the inside.
Good luck
Simple, good, fast, and cheap.
Did it on my previous house and will do it on the one I'm working on now.
Check that the frame is plumb, brace the inside and put windy on the outside,
when you then panel the inside it becomes strong as brännvin.
I personally use metal strips in a cross because I will not panel the inside but will also have råspånt on the inside.
Good luck
Well ...FredrikR said:
I think it's mostly the weight actually.
I believe asfa provides roughly the same benefits, but with lower weight and easier handling.
In the garage, I fastened the asfa with a staple gun. Those narrower and stronger staples (5.7mm back width) and about 30-35 mm long.
It went incredibly quick and smoothly. I think plaster would give me several extra hours of work, and more back pain afterwards.
Then it feels like asfa, because of its softness, might more easily become completely airtight (fitting against studs, etc.). But that might be an illusion, maybe it's the opposite? :O
Did you use silicone between the boards or that kind of tape?ByggaNytt said:
Thank you