What should I use under my standing seam panel, do you think? Advantages and disadvantages of the different products? Asfaboard, outdoor gypsum or wind barrier?
The wind barrier is a big labor saver. Is there any reason not to choose wind barrier?
The wind barrier is a big labor saver. Is there any reason not to choose wind barrier?
Personally, I chose exterior gypsum board to improve stability and got better fire protection as a bonus, BUT it's tedious/expensive to install.....
http://familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/stomme/utegips.jpg
http://familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/panel/panel_1.jpg
The other options are naturally cheaper/faster to install, so they are used more frequently.
http://familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/stomme/utegips.jpg
http://familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/panel/panel_1.jpg
The other options are naturally cheaper/faster to install, so they are used more frequently.
The outdoor plaster does not seem to handle larger amounts of rain or being exposed for extended periods. Due to a lack of time in late summer, I had to delay installing the panel that was supposed to go on the outside of the plaster and chose to protect the plaster with plastic for 7-8 months. During the time when the plaster was unprotected (about a week during the summer), there were some unsightly moisture marks/bleed-through on the paper. Didn't feel very safe, I thought, but maybe my concern was unfounded?
Just make sure to have the correct side facing out if the plaster has different sides.
Just make sure to have the correct side facing out if the plaster has different sides.
I would like to add that, like ByggaNytt, I chose plasterboard for increased stability. Sure, it's a bit cumbersome with heavy plasterboard that might need to be attached a bit higher up, but you can easily craft some tools in the form of supports and holders customized to your needs.
Exterior gypsum should not be left unprotected for more than a few months before the cladding is put on, BUT it "survives" for several years - then it should be replaced 
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/41752-utegips.html
http://www.byggahus.se/forum/byggmaterial-byggteknik/41752-utegips.html
I have installed wind barrier but now I see condensation forming on the inside when I have the heat on. 20 degrees warm inside and 10 degrees below zero outside. I assume it will dry eventually since the barrier is not diffusion-tight, but it looks a bit scary with ice on the inside of the barrier. How would it have been with exterior gypsum/asfaboard?
Of course, you will get condensation (and ice at sufficiently low outside temperatures) on the inside of such a poorly insulated "wall" at 20°C indoor temperature and cold outside.
Once the wall is insulated, the temperature on the inside will be marginally lower than room temperature, and then nothing will condense there. But that's why you should have plastic on the inside; otherwise, the condensation and ice you've seen will form somewhere inside the wall (where the temperature equals the air's dew point).
But I'm most curious about how you managed to achieve a 20°C temperature with only windproofing how many megawatts of heat have you actually been cranking up?
edit: You would have had the exact same phenomenon if you had outdoor gypsum or asfaboard, so there's no difference there.
Once the wall is insulated, the temperature on the inside will be marginally lower than room temperature, and then nothing will condense there. But that's why you should have plastic on the inside; otherwise, the condensation and ice you've seen will form somewhere inside the wall (where the temperature equals the air's dew point).
But I'm most curious about how you managed to achieve a 20°C temperature with only windproofing
how many megawatts of heat have you actually been cranking up? edit: You would have had the exact same phenomenon if you had outdoor gypsum or asfaboard, so there's no difference there.
Last edited:
Aha, you have frost between the weather-resistant barrier and the insulation ...?
Yes, that's not entirely successful. Then you probably have an elevated humidity level throughout the insulation as well, due to the dew point. It doesn't have to be a threat to the roof, but it's important that it dries out really thoroughly before you rebuild the wall. And unfortunately, it may take quite a long time as mineral wool dries rather slowly. You should probably make sure to get some advice from someone who knows this stuff (a little better than I do, at least).
Or hopefully, we'll get some more opinions here from other forum members.
Yes, that's not entirely successful. Then you probably have an elevated humidity level throughout the insulation as well, due to the dew point. It doesn't have to be a threat to the roof, but it's important that it dries out really thoroughly before you rebuild the wall. And unfortunately, it may take quite a long time as mineral wool dries rather slowly. You should probably make sure to get some advice from someone who knows this stuff (a little better than I do, at least).
Or hopefully, we'll get some more opinions here from other forum members.
Well!
When I put my hand into the insulation, it doesn't feel damp; it seems like the moisture is collecting on the inside of the building foil. I'm not sure if it's moisture from the construction being driven towards the building foil or if moisture is forming when cold and warm air meet against the building foil.
What do you think?
When I put my hand into the insulation, it doesn't feel damp; it seems like the moisture is collecting on the inside of the building foil. I'm not sure if it's moisture from the construction being driven towards the building foil or if moisture is forming when cold and warm air meet against the building foil.
What do you think?
What happens is that you have a certain rH at your 20°, say 75%. Due to diffusion, it will eventually be the same moisture level throughout the insulation, but as the temperature decreases as we approach the outside (and outside we have the same temp as outdoors), the rH reaches 100% (the dew point) somewhere in the wall. That's where the water vapor in the air begins to precipitate into water, i.e., condensation. And closer to the outside, it simply freezes since it's below zero outdoors.plåttak said:
Check the tables at the end of this page to see how many degrees you need to lower the temperature to get a certain increase in rH. http://www.lfs-web.se/fukt.htm
Hello
I have the same problem as "plåttak". I have insulated and even turned on the underfloor heating, and therefore, I have raised the indoor temperature to normal room temperature in my extension. When I run my hand through the insulation, I feel that there is frost on the inside of the wind barrier. Does anyone have any tips on how to remove this moisture without waiting until spring?
I have the same problem as "plåttak". I have insulated and even turned on the underfloor heating, and therefore, I have raised the indoor temperature to normal room temperature in my extension. When I run my hand through the insulation, I feel that there is frost on the inside of the wind barrier. Does anyone have any tips on how to remove this moisture without waiting until spring?
Hello!
You can probably relax, over time, I have noticed significantly less moisture/frost against the wind foil. I'm not sure if it's because we've now gotten rid of more of the "construction moisture." The timber "feels" much drier now.
Metal roof
You can probably relax, over time, I have noticed significantly less moisture/frost against the wind foil. I'm not sure if it's because we've now gotten rid of more of the "construction moisture." The timber "feels" much drier now.
Metal roof