Thank you for the quick and valuable response!
I plan to polish both the outside and inside, but I still think it might be good to seal properly beforehand, thanks!
I can see that there are half-blocks that might be good to use for, for example, windows and doors, even though there will likely be some cutting of the blocks anyway. I design my windows according to the blocks as far as possible. As few operable ones as possible (evacuation/ventilation).
Thank you also for the input on underfloor heating. The walls are thick, so I understand that too.
I saw an ad for a slightly larger house built with Legolit blocks...
http://www.skeppsholmen.se/stockholm/villor?view=Gallery&guid=412QRQAOJFEOJSNQ&preview=0
It's probably only available at this link until it's sold. 😊
I plan to polish both the outside and inside, but I still think it might be good to seal properly beforehand, thanks!
I can see that there are half-blocks that might be good to use for, for example, windows and doors, even though there will likely be some cutting of the blocks anyway. I design my windows according to the blocks as far as possible. As few operable ones as possible (evacuation/ventilation).
Thank you also for the input on underfloor heating. The walls are thick, so I understand that too.
I saw an ad for a slightly larger house built with Legolit blocks...
http://www.skeppsholmen.se/stockholm/villor?view=Gallery&guid=412QRQAOJFEOJSNQ&preview=0
It's probably only available at this link until it's sold. 😊
What a house!!
Okay, so you adjust windows according to the blocks, that was pretty smart. Then take a 98 window in a 100 hole. Difficult but the foam when there are too small gaps...
How do you handle the air gap when you plaster? What kind of value system should you have?
Okay, so you adjust windows according to the blocks, that was pretty smart. Then take a 98 window in a 100 hole. Difficult but the foam when there are too small gaps...
How do you handle the air gap when you plaster? What kind of value system should you have?
We plan to plaster our house. We're not there yet. But by spring/early summer we should have it done, as it's not good for the Styrofoam blocks to be exposed to sunlight.
We are building with direct Styrofoam Legolit.
Currently, we have only erected the frame and the roof. Building with the blocks is quite simple. But in our case, we chose to opt out of the metal studs that are supposed to be fitted into the blocks and went with 2x2 wooden studs instead, which resulted in us having to cover the walls as we built them up. To prevent them from getting damp. And after this rainy autumn, it has been moderately troublesome.
We are building a two-story house and also have a 500mm plustak.
We have not installed underfloor heating throughout the entire slab, only in the hallway, laundry room, and bathroom. Then we plan to use an FTX system. Solar panels on the roof and a water-jacketed stove. All to try to reduce operating costs.
I can attach a picture of what it looks like currently.
We are building with direct Styrofoam Legolit.
Currently, we have only erected the frame and the roof. Building with the blocks is quite simple. But in our case, we chose to opt out of the metal studs that are supposed to be fitted into the blocks and went with 2x2 wooden studs instead, which resulted in us having to cover the walls as we built them up. To prevent them from getting damp. And after this rainy autumn, it has been moderately troublesome.
We are building a two-story house and also have a 500mm plustak.
We have not installed underfloor heating throughout the entire slab, only in the hallway, laundry room, and bathroom. Then we plan to use an FTX system. Solar panels on the roof and a water-jacketed stove. All to try to reduce operating costs.
I can attach a picture of what it looks like currently.
Lovely house Wik83! I assume the plus roof is finished with standing seam metal and all. Nice. Are you planning to do the plastering yourself? I'm considering renting a plastering machine and having two people plaster both sides simultaneously. I checked with Cten www.cten.se and they recommend interior gypsum plaster and an exterior fiber plaster system. No air gaps or similar are needed (empame). It provides adequate weather protection.
My house will be more of a single-story functional box with an almost flat roof (3 degrees). I'm thinking of rounding the outer corners with a radius of about 10-15 cm, so I'll probably need to make a tool to cut the radius with annealed wire/blade.
My house will be more of a single-story functional box with an almost flat roof (3 degrees). I'm thinking of rounding the outer corners with a radius of about 10-15 cm, so I'll probably need to make a tool to cut the radius with annealed wire/blade.
Sorry for the late replyEllEnn said:
Yes, the roof came in pieces with finished metal cladding. The plastering didn't happen last summer as it was delayed. We're also parallel building a 1.5-story garage, so after the roof went on last year, we finished the garage so we could move in there while we complete the house. Then we got all the windows and doors in and have been sealing like crazy.
It feels like we will let someone else do the plastering; I want a fairly smooth finish and think the final result is important there.
We're also considering plastering the outer walls (internally) with gypsum plaster; it could create a cool effect.
Have you made any progress? Oh yes. For cutting the polystyrene... we took welding wire and connected it to a car battery. Once we found the right wire, it cut like butter. It takes some time, and you can't really speed it up but let it melt the plastic at its own pace.
hello!
very good information on this thread!
but what I'm wondering about is the price.
what is the cost of 1 sqm wall incl. concrete, reinforcement etc.
again thank you for all the info.
very good information on this thread!
but what I'm wondering about is the price.
what is the cost of 1 sqm wall incl. concrete, reinforcement etc.
again thank you for all the info.
Anyone who has had similar problems?
http://www.svt.se/nyheter/regionalt/sydnytt/20120404110053/dromhuset_blev_en_mardrom
http://www.svt.se/nyheter/regionalt/sydnytt/20120404110053/dromhuset_blev_en_mardrom
Hello Wik 83. We are building a house with Jackon Thermomur 350. May I ask how you managed the interior walls and the electrical installation for conduits and boxes?
Did you use OSB+gypsum boards on the inside of the exterior walls? Did it turn out well?
Did you use OSB+gypsum boards on the inside of the exterior walls? Did it turn out well?
Hello. In the system I'm building with (legolit), there are holes (vertically) in the foam blocks 50x50mm to insert plastic studs that could be bought from the supplier (very expensive). Instead, I chose to insert 2 by 2 lumber and then framed with 28-70 cc45 horizontally on all walls and have the drywall horizontally. I opted out of OSB and went with double drywall on all exterior walls (better soundproofing since foam doesn't deaden sound very well). Access with the electrical work was very simple in this way. I had to carve the boxes 4-5mm into the foam. I found that worked well for me. But in your system, I'm not sure how you handle attachment points. You could route the electrical work in the foam and glue the sheets directly on, which was an option I considered.
Thanks for the answer Wik83
Jackon doesn't have prepared tracks for electricity, but there are embedded plastic strips every 15cm that you can fasten studs and gypsum into.
I was thinking of putting up OSB boards to have something to secure shelves, paintings, etc. The 28x70 studs you have are also strong, but it's hard to locate them behind the gypsum. How does it work for you when putting up things? One solution I'm considering is that instead of OSB, to stud like you did and also place studs extra close at the height where paintings and shelves usually hang, i.e., around 110-180cm and around windows. What do you in this forum think about that?
Jackon doesn't have prepared tracks for electricity, but there are embedded plastic strips every 15cm that you can fasten studs and gypsum into.
I was thinking of putting up OSB boards to have something to secure shelves, paintings, etc. The 28x70 studs you have are also strong, but it's hard to locate them behind the gypsum. How does it work for you when putting up things? One solution I'm considering is that instead of OSB, to stud like you did and also place studs extra close at the height where paintings and shelves usually hang, i.e., around 110-180cm and around windows. What do you in this forum think about that?
You could cut the eps yourself and thus draw the electricity. But I would think it would be smartest to frame up 28-70 and screw the OSB in.
In my case, there might be a couple of paintings which can be hung with drywall nails; they don't weigh much, or use molly if unsure. For shelves or upper cabinets, I have reinforced behind the drywall. Also, for certain interior walls where I know I want to hang a TV, for example, I use plywood instead. I considered alternating 1 OSB and 1 drywall. That choice was based on wanting a bit better sound insulation and a bit better fire safety.
I don't see what could be wrong or dangerous about drywalling OSB against EPS; it's an inert material.
In my case, there might be a couple of paintings which can be hung with drywall nails; they don't weigh much, or use molly if unsure. For shelves or upper cabinets, I have reinforced behind the drywall. Also, for certain interior walls where I know I want to hang a TV, for example, I use plywood instead. I considered alternating 1 OSB and 1 drywall. That choice was based on wanting a bit better sound insulation and a bit better fire safety.
I don't see what could be wrong or dangerous about drywalling OSB against EPS; it's an inert material.
Ok - I'll have to think further about which solution might be best, it's leaning toward 28x70 regel(+connection) and single plasterboard. The Thermomuren has a 15cm concrete core, so it should be quiet. Is 1 piece of plasterboard sufficient for fire EI30?