Member
· Västerbotten, Skellefteå
· 416 posts
Well, I'll probably use dorocell, precisely because I get good prices directly from the factory located near where I live.
Unfortunately, I missed the prime plot I was going to build on; a bunch of neighbors started arguing just when we were about to sign the purchase agreement... so now I'm looking for a new plot, but since I'm quite picky about the location, it seems like it will take a while.
But I'm looking forward to building with dorocell when it happens
Maybe I'll hire you, Tyresö, when the time comes?
You probably need to breathe some fresh northern air instead of those exhaust fumes in Sthlm
Unfortunately, I missed the prime plot I was going to build on; a bunch of neighbors started arguing just when we were about to sign the purchase agreement... so now I'm looking for a new plot, but since I'm quite picky about the location, it seems like it will take a while.
But I'm looking forward to building with dorocell when it happens
Maybe I'll hire you, Tyresö, when the time comes?
You probably need to breathe some fresh northern air instead of those exhaust fumes in Sthlm
Oh yes, I have also been up in Åre several years ago, pumping concrete into styrofoam walls. 5% of my pumping jobs take place in other parts of Sweden - it could be anywhere.imported_jo said:but looking forward to building with dorocell when it happens
I might have to hire you, Tyresö, when the time comes?
You probably need to breathe some fresh northern air instead of those fumes in Stockholm
The only important thing to remember about the concrete is: Some concrete stations recommend using a reduced 8-16 concrete, which results in the 8-16 stones getting stuck on the reinforcement bars, and since you can't use a vibrator for this kind of casting, it creates an air pocket in the wall = catastrophe!!!
Regardless of what anyone says, you should ALWAYS use 0-8 concrete and preferably a slump as close to 200 - 220 as possible (wet S4 or stiff S5). A rule of thumb for getting the right casting speed is: preferably no more than 1 m casting height/hour, and you should fill in 4 rounds before reaching full wall height.
Following this rule of thumb will prevent a catastrophic casting - with styrofoam blocks breaking - resulting in concrete spraying all over the construction site.
My height record for pumping concrete into styrofoam blocks in a single casting - and with successful results, is a styrofoam wall that was 6.7 m high. I had to maintain such a slow casting height speed that the entire casting took 10 hours - but the styrofoam blocks held (Dorocell blocks).
I can willingly admit that I was very skeptical about whether the bottom styrofoam blocks would hold up throughout the casting...
Member
· Västerbotten, Skellefteå
· 416 posts
Ok, it seems like you know what you're doing
I'm a carpenter myself and have built many houses, but unfortunately no customer has been interested in these building systems so far, so I guess I'll gain the experience when I build for myself...
Could you send me a PM with your contact details so I can reach out when the time comes?
I'm a carpenter myself and have built many houses, but unfortunately no customer has been interested in these building systems so far, so I guess I'll gain the experience when I build for myself...
Could you send me a PM with your contact details so I can reach out when the time comes?
Unfortunately, this forum cannot function as an assignment for entrepreneurs... then you will be banned....
I am sorry, but I can, however, explain through the forum how you should proceed.
I am sorry, but I can, however, explain through the forum how you should proceed.
Tyresö,
can you tell me a bit more about pumping in Thermomur?
How often do they crack? Is it because someone did something wrong if that happens?
How have people solved non-right angles?
Is it possible to cast, for example, a full-height wall and composite floor in one pour? Have you done it?
Sorry, many questions, but it's getting close to making a decision.
can you tell me a bit more about pumping in Thermomur?
How often do they crack? Is it because someone did something wrong if that happens?
How have people solved non-right angles?
Is it possible to cast, for example, a full-height wall and composite floor in one pour? Have you done it?
Sorry, many questions, but it's getting close to making a decision.
Just follow my advice given in post #32
"Regardless of what anyone says, you should ALWAYS use 0-8 concrete and preferably a slump as close to 200 - 220 as possible (wet S4 or stiff S5). A rule of thumb for achieving the right casting speed is: preferably no more than 1 m casting height/hour and you should fill 4 rounds before reaching full wall height."
Then there are never any problems.
Non-rectangular angles are braced together with studs, and the joints are sealed with foam. I have never heard of what a "composite floor" is, but I guess you mean whether it's possible to do a wall casting and ceiling casting in a single pour - ABSOLUTELY NOT. The concrete in the walls must first cure for at least 1 week before you load them with the concrete weight from a ceiling casting = weights of 40 - 80 tons for an average house.
Concrete weighs 2.3 tons/m3, and the ceiling should be at least 20 cm thick - then it's easy for you to calculate what the weight of the ceiling will be.
"Regardless of what anyone says, you should ALWAYS use 0-8 concrete and preferably a slump as close to 200 - 220 as possible (wet S4 or stiff S5). A rule of thumb for achieving the right casting speed is: preferably no more than 1 m casting height/hour and you should fill 4 rounds before reaching full wall height."
Then there are never any problems.
Non-rectangular angles are braced together with studs, and the joints are sealed with foam. I have never heard of what a "composite floor" is, but I guess you mean whether it's possible to do a wall casting and ceiling casting in a single pour - ABSOLUTELY NOT. The concrete in the walls must first cure for at least 1 week before you load them with the concrete weight from a ceiling casting = weights of 40 - 80 tons for an average house.
Concrete weighs 2.3 tons/m3, and the ceiling should be at least 20 cm thick - then it's easy for you to calculate what the weight of the ceiling will be.
I will make sure to follow your advice!
I think I was a bit unclear regarding casting an arch at the same time. By that, I mean a floor structure like PEVA45, which is stamped cc 2m. With the correct support underneath, perhaps one could manage to cast this as well, is what I thought. But maybe it won't work/be impossible...
I think I was a bit unclear regarding casting an arch at the same time. By that, I mean a floor structure like PEVA45, which is stamped cc 2m. With the correct support underneath, perhaps one could manage to cast this as well, is what I thought. But maybe it won't work/be impossible...
Avoid casting vaults while casting walls - the concrete in the walls must withstand an enormous load from the weight of the vault concrete, regardless of how much you brace it. Sure, anything is possible - you can brace away the wall load - but what do you do if the wall collapses during casting? You don't gamble with such things.
Hi everyone. Maybe someone knows: 1 ton of concrete is enough for ?sqm styrofoam "durocell", for example. Thanks for the help!
How has it gone for you imported_jo? Have you managed to build a house?imported_jo said:Yes, I will probably use dorocell, precisely because I get good prices directly from the factory located near where I live.
But unfortunately, I missed out on the fantastic lot I was going to build on, there were a bunch of neighbors who started arguing just when we were about to sign the purchase agreement.... so now I'm looking for a new lot, but since I'm quite picky about the location, it seems it will take a while.
But I'm looking forward to building with dorocell when it happens
I know the thread is a bit old, but I am interested in the outcome. I'm in the early stages of house-building thoughts myself, and this type of "Lego" that Dorocell and others offer seems interesting.
Member
· Västerbotten, Skellefteå
· 416 posts
I became a house builder myself when I found the optimal way to construct an energy-efficient stick-built house. We use a so-called low-energy frame made of lightweight beams, type masonite. Both wall studs and roof.
Make sure the builder you use is an experienced "Lego builder". There is a high risk that the walls will become crooked and bulging if carelessness occurs and things move too quickly. Demand that the walls are supported twice as much as the builder intended before casting, and that they do not forget to adjust the walls before the concrete sets. My experience is that straightening walls afterward is expensive, dull, and difficult to get right.Tobias_Designer said:
I will build with Cellplast Direkts Legolit blocks. I haven't found much information on the byggahus forum. It would be nice to hear from someone who has built with these blocks and heard their impression - what they were satisfied with and dissatisfied with.