Member
· Västerbotten, Skellefteå
· 416 posts
Received a quote from cellplastdirekt today for my house frame+roof....oh dear, that amount doesn't fit here.
Waiting for a quote from Besta, we'll see....
Waiting for a quote from Besta, we'll see....
Member
· Västerbotten, Skellefteå
· 416 posts
Probably nothing will come of besta either, the construction is too uncertain. I have talked to two independent architects who both advise against this building system, as it has not undergone any testing at all. There is a risk of moisture between the plywood and the polystyrene over time, what happens then with the bonding? Moreover, no significant fire rating. Bewi remains....
Member
· Västerbotten, Skellefteå
· 416 posts
over half a million just for materials, that was with outer wall + roof EPS but not the load-bearing glulam construction that's extra. An additional cost is also a stud wall right against the outer wall for installation space, calculated for a residential house 1-story 180 sqm
Some Bewi-info in Norwegian.
http://www.husbygger.net/index.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=4057
http://www.byggebolig.no/index.php?topic=6488.0
Heard about sundolitt and dorocell?
http://www.husbygger.net/index.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=4057
http://www.byggebolig.no/index.php?topic=6488.0
Heard about sundolitt and dorocell?
Last edited:
Member
· Västerbotten, Skellefteå
· 416 posts
I've tried to get a response from sundolitt and dorocell, but no reply yet.
Regarding your inquiry about plwooden and EPS in Besta blocks, according to glue experts, there should not be any direct issues with moisture between the wood and EPS as polyurethane glue cures with the help of moisture in the materials. So these blocks should be able to stand outside without the bonding being affected. The fire rating is what it is.
Member
· Västerbotten, Skellefteå
· 416 posts
Well, I'm working with glue myself so I know that, but it was long-term they meant, and they think the method they use is too little tested. They found it strange that they have a patent but not any kind of testing facility like sp for example. I actually agree.
Talked to dorocell yesterday, was actually pleasantly surprised by the price. They would calculate more accurately once I finished my drawing. The downside, however, is the low U-value 0.16, it's a worse U-value than a 45+220+45 mineral wool wall.
Going to visit a ground builder in town tomorrow, he has the bewi system at home now, so I can get a feel for it.
Talked to dorocell yesterday, was actually pleasantly surprised by the price. They would calculate more accurately once I finished my drawing. The downside, however, is the low U-value 0.16, it's a worse U-value than a 45+220+45 mineral wool wall.
Going to visit a ground builder in town tomorrow, he has the bewi system at home now, so I can get a feel for it.
What do you think about this then?
http://www.kenpo-sandwich.se/
http://www.kenpo-sandwich.se/
Member
· Västerbotten, Skellefteå
· 416 posts
Hello Hålta, well I haven't decided yet, but kenpo-sandwich.se is the most interesting as it has a finished exterior, providing a very cost-effective and quick solution. On the other hand, the actual "main house" will be a bit delayed; we will start by building the guest house of 60 sqm on the 2-hectare plot, then the 350 sqm workshop in a sandwich system with a non-visible steel frame intended for industry but the surface resembles kenpo. So it will match the large residential house later on.
When it comes to comparing prices for building traditionally and with the EPS system, there isn't much difference in the end. However, you do save a lot of time, which in turn can mean a cheaper cost if you hire craftsmen. But in terms of materials, there isn't a big difference.
When it comes to comparing prices for building traditionally and with the EPS system, there isn't much difference in the end. However, you do save a lot of time, which in turn can mean a cheaper cost if you hire craftsmen. But in terms of materials, there isn't a big difference.
Member
· Västerbotten, Skellefteå
· 416 posts
to elaborate on the idea as mentioned above... the material cost I meant is not that much of a difference based on whether you want a plaster facade.
If you want regular wood paneling, it will obviously be cheaper to build traditionally.
If you want regular wood paneling, it will obviously be cheaper to build traditionally.
I built my house partly with these blocks and have only had good experiences.
I chose Sundolitt because they had a solution for 45° corners, of which I have quite a few. Dorocell (soon Thermomur) new blocks were otherwise at the top of the list but fell short due to the 45-degree corners. The advantage of Dorocell is that the wall becomes a homogeneous concrete wall; the ties between the walls are thin and not in the same material as the blocks, thicker and better U-value. Additionally, there are cast-in strips in the blocks to which you can easily screw the studs/boards. However, they were more expensive than the Sundolitt blocks, so I saved a lot but would have still chosen Dorocell's NEW blocks if I only had straight angles.
Incredibly convenient to build your house this way....
/Glenn
I chose Sundolitt because they had a solution for 45° corners, of which I have quite a few. Dorocell (soon Thermomur) new blocks were otherwise at the top of the list but fell short due to the 45-degree corners. The advantage of Dorocell is that the wall becomes a homogeneous concrete wall; the ties between the walls are thin and not in the same material as the blocks, thicker and better U-value. Additionally, there are cast-in strips in the blocks to which you can easily screw the studs/boards. However, they were more expensive than the Sundolitt blocks, so I saved a lot but would have still chosen Dorocell's NEW blocks if I only had straight angles.
Incredibly convenient to build your house this way....
/Glenn
A friend built in one of these systems, had huge problems when he sold due to the lack of certain approvals. I think it eventually got resolved but there was a lot of hassle before that...
These are the kind of polystyrene blocks I pump concrete into more or less every week. The most commonly used blocks are Dorocell because they are the most cost-effective. The Norwegian Bewi blocks are very stable and good, but they are insanely expensive to purchase. I guess there are about 25 different brands I've seen over the years.
Personally, I would use Dorocell blocks because of the reasonable purchase price and they are not as fragile when you pump concrete into them. Palikka blocks are the most fragile, and you can't cast the full wall height on the same day - they'll crack.
I live in a wooden frame house, and the day I can afford it, I'll send our house straight into a container and build a new house on a cast concrete slab with embedded waterborne floor heating and a frame with Dorocell polystyrene blocks filled with concrete - which I will obviously pump in myself. I would then also use my own developed concrete recipes, specially adapted for polystyrene block casting.
I have only good things to say about that construction technique.....
Personally, I would use Dorocell blocks because of the reasonable purchase price and they are not as fragile when you pump concrete into them. Palikka blocks are the most fragile, and you can't cast the full wall height on the same day - they'll crack.
I live in a wooden frame house, and the day I can afford it, I'll send our house straight into a container and build a new house on a cast concrete slab with embedded waterborne floor heating and a frame with Dorocell polystyrene blocks filled with concrete - which I will obviously pump in myself. I would then also use my own developed concrete recipes, specially adapted for polystyrene block casting.
I have only good things to say about that construction technique.....