23,450 views ·
260 replies
23k views
260 replies
Zero-energy Attefall. How would you have done it?
but that's what I'm saying, just because you find materials that work, it's only a small part.Johannes Carlsson said:
Remember that just because you have built lots of low-energy houses, it doesn't automatically mean you are right. There are still plenty of different variants you can build; you just have to know the basic physics and the goal.
A few years ago, about 10, it was somewhat difficult to find good suppliers for low-energy house components. Today, it's quite easy to find passive house windows and doors. Even though stylish doors in the right style can be challenging. There, you can advantageously build a cold porch as a sluice.
you also have to be able to build low-energy.
You cannot install your window the standard way; you have to do it in a special way with detail.
this applies to all construction parts.
For example, how do you install windows in a low-energy house?
if one does not understand why, then they might be far removed from how a passive house works, so it's not really possible to discuss with that person.F fribygg said:
you seem to lack fundamental knowledge on passive house construction.
The original poster is considering a house with heating in the form of a heat pump and a fireplace, which you will notice if you read the thread, so it's not a passive house.O oliven1 said:
Quote: "I've started considering building a zero-energy house in Attefall format."F fribygg said:
Zero-energy house has higher requirements than passive house.
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· Västra Götaland
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I think you can drop your condescending tone and leave if you don't want to contribute constructively. You seem to be able to follow an instruction book, congratulations.O oliven1 said:
According to my understanding, TS does not aim to build a certified passive house but rather an energy-efficient cabin that should be viable even if it were to stand off-grid.
Energy consumption is a gray scale, and the more energy-efficient you build, the more important small details become. At the same time, additional insulation becomes less important the thicker it is.
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· Västra Götaland
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Mount the window in the insulation layer to avoid and connect the waterproofing carefully.O oliven1 said:but that's what I'm saying, just because you find materials that work, it's only a small part.
you also have to be able to build low-energy.
You can't mount your window the standard way; you have to do it in a special way in detail.
this applies to all construction parts.
For example, how do you mount windows in a low-energy house?
That's as generally as you can describe it without going into detail about which wall and window you use.
Some are mounted from the outside with an external flange and fill the gap with foam.
My passive house windows are mounted with frame screws.
Yes, that's how it is. And since there are no such houses in an Attefall format, one should see this as an idea thread.Johannes Carlsson said:
In my opinion, TS does not aim to build a certified passive house but rather an energy-efficient cabin that should be able to stand off-grid.
Energy consumption is a grayscale, and the more efficient you build, the more important small details become. At the same time, additional insulation becomes less significant as it gets thicker.
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· Västra Götaland
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I like the idea of a well-insulated cabin. A wood stove and solar panels for convenience. It can easily get overly warm when you fire up the stove, but incredibly cozy with a fire 😀
The dew point is deep in the wall, so the waterproofing layer shouldn't be neglected.Johannes Carlsson said:
Mount the window in the insulation layer to avoid and carefully connect the waterproofing layer.
That's generally how you can describe it without going into details about which wall and window you use.
Some are mounted from the outside with an external flange and foam the gap.
My passive house windows are mounted with frame screws
An FTX system adjusted with slight negative pressure.
Preferably slab on grade to handle the building height.
Insulation 200 mm PIR, equivalent to about 350 mm mineral wool. Sliding tracks on log wall?
Expensive windows with a U-value below 1 with solar shading on the south side.
Window placement inside the wall.
LLVP
Wood-burning stove with a water coil for hot water heating.
Solar panels on the roof and on the south-facing wall with battery storage. Can you get some electricity with low solar height in winter and no snow problems.
Maybe it's time to run the house in an energy simulation program now
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you cannot mount windows with karmskruv. that means you're mounting directly into the stud which you are not allowed to doJohannes Carlsson said:
Mount the window in the insulation layer to avoid and carefully connect the waterproof layer.
That's generally how you can describe it without going into details about which wall and window you use.
Some are mounted from the outside with an external flange and foam the gap.
My passive house windows are mounted with karmskruv
Know-It-All
· Västra Götaland
· 12 299 posts
Know-It-All
· Västra Götaland
· 12 299 posts
Sounds like a reasonable recipe. Would aim for windows under U=0.8 for the entire construction, so you get no cold drafts.Ulltand said:
The dew point comes far into the wall, so the waterproofing is not something to be sloppy with.
An FTX adjusted with a bit of low pressure.
Preferably slab-on-grade to handle the building height.
Insulation 200 mm PIR, equivalent to about 350 mm rock wool. Sliding tracks on log wall?
Expensive windows with a U-value below 1 with sun protection on the south side.
Window placement on the inside of the wall.
LLVP
Wood-burning stove with a water coil for hot water heating.
Solar panels on the roof and on the south-facing wall with battery storage. Can you get some electricity with a low sun height in winter and no snow problems?
Might be time to run the house in an energy simulation program now![]()
PIR boards and windows are advantageously ordered from Poland/Czech Republic. Lower price and better selection.