23,450 views ·
260 replies
23k views
260 replies
Zero-energy Attefall. How would you have done it?
none, but it's not the log itself that is energy-efficient in any way.F fribygg said:
rather, the log will only serve as a cladding element on the low-energy frame.
so I could have mounted log on any house of those I have built.
You clearly haven't read the thread yet, no one is claiming that the half-timbering that the original poster intends to use is energy-efficient.O oliven1 said:
I have privately built a couple of energy-efficient log houses, and traditional Attefallshus with a frame structure. I perceive that it's a single small house in Attefall size that the OP is considering, and I refrain from mentioning what I've been involved with professionally as it has no relevance to the question in the thread.O oliven1 said:
Have you @oliven1 built any single energy-efficient house in Attefall size? Or do you maybe have experience with zero-energy houses?
have built incredibly many sqm of low-energy houses like passive houses and zero-energy houses.F fribygg said:I have privately built a couple of energy-efficient log houses, and a traditional Attefall house with a stud frame. I perceive that it's a single small house in Attefall size that TS is considering, and I refrain from mentioning what I have been involved with professionally as it has no relevance to the issue in the thread.
Have you @oliven1 built any single energy-efficient house in Attefall size? Or do you perhaps have experience with Zero-energy houses?
the solutions for a large house of 10,000 sqm and one of 100 sqm are exactly the same.
if you can build one, you can build the other.
Know-It-All
· Västra Götaland
· 12 299 posts
I would argue that the joist on a pier should have greater heat leakage. The reason being that air circulates under the joist, which is colder than the ground's base temperature.F fribygg said:
The floor structure on stilts can never be resolved into a low-energy house.Johannes Carlsson said:
It must be a slab on the ground so that you can account for the inertia from the ground.
A cold winter day with -16 degrees outdoors would mean that you have -16 degrees under the house.
Know-It-All
· Västra Götaland
· 12 299 posts
Remember that just because you've built lots of low-energy houses, it doesn't automatically mean you're right. It's still possible to build in many different variants; you just need to understand the basic physics and the goal.O oliven1 said:
A few years ago ~10 it was somewhat difficult to find good suppliers for low-energy house components. Today, it is quite easy to find passive house windows and doors. Even though finding stylish doors in the right style can be difficult. There, you can advantageously build a cold vestibule as an airlock.
Do you perhaps mean that you have been professionally involved in 40,000m2? Are your professional experiences of large constructions relevant to the thread, which is about a proposed summer cottage, Attefall-sized, Zero-energy house with half-timber facade? Can you apply your knowledge to the size of the building TS is considering, or do you persist in thinking that it's not possible to build with timber?O oliven1 said:
Know-It-All
· Västra Götaland
· 12 299 posts
Absolutely, but it can still be solved. The conditions for the floor become similar to those for the wall.O oliven1 said:
The soil's inertia does not play a critical role even though it is nicer with a few plus degrees than minus.
If you want to build on a rock slab without making a pile of gravel around the house, I still suggest building down a wall or similar first, and then inside this, level and insulate. Clearly unnecessary with cold draft under the beam structure.
