Zero-energy Attefall. How would you have done it?

[fribygg]

I would never choose a house like the one in the picture, called halvtimmer..
It absorbs moisture to the inside. Outer walls and frame are the same thing. When the outer wall is bad and needs replacing, the whole house disappears.

I, on the other hand, could consider building in halvtimmer, but then it would have to be a building like a wood-fired sauna that shouldn't be insulated or kept permanently heated.

 

[Ulltand]

I would never choose a house like the one in the picture, called halvtimmer..
It absorbs moisture to the inside. The exterior walls and frame are the same thing. When the outer wall is bad and needs to be replaced, the whole house disappears.

Why would it absorb moisture to the inside? You maintain the outer wall, I think, so that it doesn't need to be replaced. A good roof overhang protects against rain and snow.

 

[Karrock]

Exciting thread, even if it might be starting to get out of hand. Vacuum panels and space insulation are exaggerated in this context.
I believe, without having calculated it, that with 400+mm thick mineral wool walls and proper execution, the heat source matters less. A compatible storage tank/water heater for solar collectors connected to a water-jacketed chimney on the small stove and underfloor heating loop might achieve very good energy performance. It's a bit more uncertain though if you want to meet certain standards that don't allow for Åsanisse-style construction.

 

[Ulltand]

Exciting thread, even if it might be getting off track. Vacuum panels and space insulation are over-the-top in this context.
I believe, without having calculated it, that with 400+mm thick mineral wool walls and proper execution, the heat source plays less of a role. Such an accumulator tank/water heater that is solar collector compatible and connected to a water-jacketed chimney on the small stove and a floor heating loop, I think you can achieve very good energy performance. A bit more uncertain though if you want to meet certain standards that don't allow for DIY construction.

If you're going to build a very small house, you'd preferably not want 400 insulation if you get the same with 250 mm in another material. Almost decisive, I would say.

Water-jacketed chimney sounds like an idea. Could connect it to the water heater as you write. Sounds a bit overkill with underfloor heating here, IMO.

 

[fribygg]

If you're going to build a very small house, you preferably don't want 400 insulation if it's the same with 250 mm in another material. Almost decisive, I would say.


A water-jacketed chimney sounds like an idea. Could connect it to the hot water heater as you write. Sounds a bit overkill with underfloor heating here imo.

If you're going to build an insulated attefallshus, I don't think half-timbering is a smart choice either if the usable floor area becomes larger with another facade material that isn't more expensive.

Are you thinking of slab on grade?

 

[Ulltand]

If you're building an insulated "attefallshus," I don't think half-timber is a smart choice either, especially if the usable floor space can be larger with another facade material that isn't more expensive.

Are you considering a slab on grade?

That's true, you can increase the floor space a bit more with another construction. We currently have a full timber house nearby, so it might look good with timber or something similar.

It's a rock knoll, so the plan is to use a pillar foundation.

 

[fribygg]

It's true you can increase the floor space a bit more with another construction. We have a full log house next to it so it could look good with logs or similar.

It's a rock knoll so the thought is a pillar foundation.

Consider a slab on grade if you're building according to Attefall rules, it gives more space inside the house which is sensible if you plan a loft.

 

[Rabbithole]

A slab makes it easier to break the thermal bridge.
You can run half-timber according to the image as a pure facade. Then let a 70mm frame support the roof.

Slab, 70mm supporting frame inside. Outside the frame, you lay 2 layers of PIR and then for the facade, frame with 45mm and build with wood paneling that looks like timber.
The roof is insulated like the wall with PIR on top of the sheathing.
There will be a small thermal bridge where the roof beams go through the wall, but it should be okay.

 

[Karrock]

Edit: I seem to be unable to quote.

Ulltand: In terms of price and complexity, I don't think underfloor heating is overkill. 100m plastic pipe and a small shunt/circulation. Compared to llvp and ftx mentioned earlier, it sounds both simple and cheap to me, since you'll need something for hot water anyway. Maybe I mixed it up, thought it was ts who wanted 500mm mineral wool first and others who suggested more advanced materials.

 

[oliven1]

If one is building a very small house, one preferably does not want 400 insulation if you get the same with 250 mm in another material. Almost entirely decisive, I would say.

A water-jacketed chimney sounds like an idea. Could connect it to the water heater as you suggest. Seems a bit overkill with underfloor heating here imo.

but you're contradicting yourself.
when building small, you naturally want to maximize the area and that doesn't align with passive houses.
and surely timber isn't what you want then, as you would "lose" about 250mm that you could have used for construction with insulation in?

 

[fribygg]

but you are contradicting yourself.
when building small, you obviously want to maximize the area, and that doesn't align with passive houses.
and then you really don't want timber because you "lose" about 250mm that you could have used for construction with insulation?

Why are you writing about passive houses @oliven1?
The original poster is considering a Zero-energy house, which you would see if you take the time to read the thread.

 

[Rabbithole]

Edit: I seem not to be able to quote.

Ulltand: In terms of price and complexity, I don't think underfloor heating is overkill. 100m of plastic tubing and a small pump/circulation. Compared to the air-to-air heat pump and heat recovery ventilation that were discussed earlier, it sounds both simple and inexpensive to me, since you need something for hot water anyway.
Maybe I mixed it up, I thought it was the original poster who wanted 500mm mineral wool at first and others suggested more advanced materials.

The downside is that underfloor heating is slow. An air-to-air heat pump reacts faster in a cabin and turns off the heat as soon as the sun comes out and warms it up.

 

[Karrock]

The downside is that underfloor heating is sluggish. LLVP is faster in a cabin and turns off the heat as soon as the sun comes out and warms.

It is not a concrete slab that we're talking about. But sure, it's quicker to heat the air directly than through a chipboard in the floor. But underfloor heating is quiet

 

[oliven1]

Why are you writing about passive houses @oliven1?
TS is considering a Zero Energy House, which you would see if you took the time to read the thread

does it matter?, it's essentially the same constructions to achieve passive as zero energy

 

[fribygg]

It is a rocky knoll, so the plan is to use a pillar foundation.

Is the area zoned?