I am going to try to help a friend with stabilizing an ongoing construction of a 5*5m shed, and the problem is that it is not stable. If you push on one side, it wobbles, and he doesn't want any diagonal boards for bracing. So my question is, can it work with a perforated strip screwed diagonally onto the studs? The wall frames are constructed with 45*95 cc1000 and 45*95 at angles both at the top and bottom to make it stiffer, and the walls are screwed at the corners for better stability.
Sounds a bit too weak with cc1000 I think... And impractical. Perforated tape should work, but it might be difficult to tension properly without special tools. You could also inset some diagonal braces, with cc1000 you can fit pretty long ones.
Built a smaller building of about 30 m2 that wasn't supposed to be finished inside for a couple of years, used perforated tape and anchor screws, no problem tightening the perforated tapes, just screw a little at an angle, the building stood perfectly straight after 3 years and various storms, I chose to remove the perforated tapes when the interior cladding was done.
Sheet metal on the outside, nothing on the inside.F fribygg said:
S Sune i Blekinge said:
Then you might be able to put the perforated bands on the outside before cladding with sheet metal to avoid having them in the way if you want to do some kind of interior design in the future.R roke said:
When you're not going to cover the inside, I think cc1000 should work fine.joakim_j said:
That sounds completely reasonable. In two simple buildings, I have tensioned the perforated straps by attaching the strap at one end, and near or beyond the other end, diagonally screwing a long screw with a washer through the strap in the tensioning direction. Then fixed the strap at that end with permanent screws. It's not how the pros do it, but it has become sufficiently rigid. On the outside of the wall studs, inside the standing paneling. Both buildings seem to be standing very straight a few years later.I Incinerator said:
If you anchor the perforated strap to two standing wall studs, you risk them bending toward each other and loosening the brace. So anchor it to cross braces - hammer beam, noggings, sill plate. I don't know where I got that from, but I think it makes sense.
When I built my conservatory, it was a bit wobbly at first since I didn't have diagonals in the walls, but it became much more stable when I added the roof. It was a polycarbonate roof, but even in a shed with a different type of roof, it should be possible to reduce some of the wobbliness by strengthening the roof with diagonals if there are no construction boards, etc. Construction boards in the walls, as people have suggested, are also a good idea since the board can handle diagonal forces, even shorter braces are beneficial, maybe you can place them at a high height so they are not in the way? Placing a more discreet brace in the form of a type of cladding board just inside the facade also provides stability, especially if the facade is also screwed into the brace, which reduces the buckling length of the brace and makes it more stable when it has to handle pressure.
I have a freestanding, uninsulated shed without diagonals.
Vertical cladding and no boards.
Over time, it has become a rhombus.
So, that type of construction I cannot recommend.
Vertical cladding and no boards.
Over time, it has become a rhombus.
So, that type of construction I cannot recommend.
When the sheet metal is screwed on, it stiffens up significantly as well. No, you don't need any diagonals, but it certainly doesn't hurt to have strapping there. It's also so cheap in this context.
Can you elaborate on that reasoning? If you're not cladding the inside, it seems strange to make the structure weaker…I Incinerator said:
It is common to space the studs further apart if the inside is not going to be covered or insulated, but 1000c/c is a bit unusual, better with 1200c/c in that case.