With or without horizontal blocking behind horizontal battens (behind exterior cladding)?
I am a bit curious. How many people install horizontal noggings behind horizontal battens behind exterior cladding?
If you're using something like 28x70 for battens, do you skip the nogging behind or do you keep it?
Personally, I think it feels better with nogging behind so it holds better when nailing the cladding, plus it becomes a more stable and robust construction. It feels a bit flimsy to just nail at each upright stud and let the battens hang in the air between the studs
How do you do it?
If you're using something like 28x70 for battens, do you skip the nogging behind or do you keep it?
Personally, I think it feels better with nogging behind so it holds better when nailing the cladding, plus it becomes a more stable and robust construction. It feels a bit flimsy to just nail at each upright stud and let the battens hang in the air between the studs
How do you do it?
I cross-braced outside the frame with 45x45, and placed insulation inside. So I got what you're talking about for free.
But no, I wouldn't stand behind and add short pieces.
I chose 25x50 as the nailing batten (which in reality is more like 23x48) and was satisfied with this since I had my horizontal 45x45 behind.
If I didn't have the cross-braces behind, I would have used 28x70 as the nailing batten or, if there was a concern about the nail holding well enough, 34x70.
And then a nail gun with 50 or 60 mm nails, which are 2.8 thick regardless.
But no, I wouldn't stand behind and add short pieces.
I chose 25x50 as the nailing batten (which in reality is more like 23x48) and was satisfied with this since I had my horizontal 45x45 behind.
If I didn't have the cross-braces behind, I would have used 28x70 as the nailing batten or, if there was a concern about the nail holding well enough, 34x70.
And then a nail gun with 50 or 60 mm nails, which are 2.8 thick regardless.
Oh, you cross-insulated there, yes. That avoids a lot of thermal bridges as well. But of course, then the whole thing builds an additional 45.Mikael_L said:I cross-braced outside the frame with 45x45, and insulation inside. So I got what you describe as a bonus.
But no, I wouldn't stand and batten behind.
I chose 25x50 as a nailing batten (which in reality usually is more of 23x48) and was satisfied with that since I had my horizontal 45x45 behind.
If you use wind barrier, won't the nails (if you use 60mm nails) puncture the barrier behind? (With 22mm panel, of course)
It's recommended that the nail for the panel is anchored 2/3, and if the panel is 22mm, then it's essentially a 3-inch nail that's required. But that will definitely puncture the barrier behind the battens. How do you handle that situation?
What nails are you using? 2 inches? And what kind of wind barrier do you have behind, board or paper?PCLarsson said:
Or you take 45mm less dimension in the frame structure, so it doesn't build more.Martin_B said:
But one shouldn't overestimate the cross battening's impact, that it insulates so much better than traditional battening of the same thickness. But I did 45+195+45, and think 45+220 would have been a bit meager.
. And I got the constructive advantage of better support for the nail rule.If a 3" nail sticks out 1" in the back, the extra length serves no purpose.
But there's the advantage with nails for nail guns, which keep a 2.8 diameter regardless of how short the nail is used, meaning it grips as well as 75x2.8 if it still gets most of it in free air behind.
In the garage, I nailed with 50x2.8, as I only had 25mm nail battens behind.
But in hindsight, I would have splurged on 28x70 as nail rule and 60x2.8mm nails, as my 50x2.8 nails grip a little poorly.
That's why I like to short-cut at the backMikael_L said:
...so the nail holds all the way to the tip.What do you mean by "free air"? Behind the nailing strip is the wind barrier, isn't it? So it makes a hole in that instead? Or am I missing something here?
What I mean is, if you have, for example, a 22mm panel and then a 28mm nailing strip beneath it, and then use a 3-inch or let's say 60mm nail, 25mm or 10mm goes right through the wind barrier, whether it's board or felt, unless you have a spacer behind the nailing strip of corresponding measure. Or am I completely confused now?
Yes, I think 50 is too weak. Especially with today's weather changes. Here, it rains tropical rain and it's around 25 degrees alternately. The panel dances salsa around the clock, so it's about holding it in place
I mean material for the nail to grip. The fact that it punctures the wind barrier is just an additional disadvantage.Martin_B said:What do you mean by "free air"? Behind the nailing slat, there is the wind barrier, right? Wouldn't it get punctured instead? Or am I not following now?
But anyway, to answer your question:
...I would either settle for 28x70 as a nailing strip or go up to 34x70 if I suspected problems.
Adding support behind is a j*** job and also reduces the wall's insulating ability.
And it is hardly cheaper than 34x70 either.
I advocate the same construction as Mikael_L, i.e., to place a horizontal framework (and insulation) on the outermost part of the structure. I personally use 70x45 laid horizontally on the outside of the standing (170x45) studs. The horizontal framework also addresses the issue of facade nails piercing the wind barrier, as it does not matter when the barrier is clamped between the studs and the battens.
45x45 or 70x45 is mostly a matter of taste, but I find the 45 insulation too flimsy to work with, so I chose 70 thickness both externally and internally.
45x45 or 70x45 is mostly a matter of taste, but I find the 45 insulation too flimsy to work with, so I chose 70 thickness both externally and internally.