Widen door in load-bearing wall.

[Tiger79]

Then it could be a dormer that was built later than the house with a beam in the attic and a post that transfers the force right there ;-)

 

[Michael86]

Then it could be a dormer that was built after the house with a beam up in the attic and a post that transfers the force right there ;-)

 

[JanneL]

A house from '47 I would guess has diagonal braces, i.e., crosses!

I don't think so. It's probably a later invention. I myself have an apartment building in wood, built in '32, where the distance between the floor beams is anything but 24 inches. Most are spaced at 28-32 inches, without noggings. In my houses from the 1940s, there are no noggings either.

 

[JanneL]

hmmm, probably opening the wall won't help to see what's on top, there is probably a top plate/lying noggin on the standing studs. Hard to see through that? The only thing you can see is if there's a lintel.

If it's a gable, it's easy to check from above.

No, you can't see through it, but you can see if there's a lintel. You've probably also removed the molding and if you're lucky you might see and feel where the ridge/beam is located. Old houses are rarely completely sealed, most likely there's a gap by the wall. You might even see some nails on the edge where the underroof is nailed. Then you don't have to guess anymore. There's probably also tar paper up there along with sawdust. The doorway is reportedly about 1 meter from the chimney. The first beam/ridge is likely about 5-10 cm from the wall. The next beam/ridge will then land somewhere in the existing doorway. It might be possible to cut away the stub wall without doing anything else. Often tongue and groove floorboards were used, which also makes the construction "flexible." The problem comes later because it's not certain that it will settle immediately. But, over time it will, and then it's not as easy to rectify/restore.