Hello
I have tried to find the answer but can't search any longer.
We have just moved into an old hundred-year-old small farm. The interior walls are tretex =O(
We are not planning to renovate but need to hang quite a few shelves. Is it even possible?
Right now I'm stuck trying to find anchors that work to hang a rod for hanging pots. Do molli anchors work?
How thick should I assume the board is?
Regards
Henrietta
I have tried to find the answer but can't search any longer.
We have just moved into an old hundred-year-old small farm. The interior walls are tretex =O(
We are not planning to renovate but need to hang quite a few shelves. Is it even possible?
Right now I'm stuck trying to find anchors that work to hang a rod for hanging pots. Do molli anchors work?
How thick should I assume the board is?
Regards
Henrietta
Are you sure there's nothing substantial behind the tretex? It was used as a surface layer and insulation, and it's not impossible that there's "timber" behind it. Just tretex by itself as a wall would be quite flimsy.
In my case, behind the tretex there was 22mm thick tongued wood - Now, my house is only 60 years old after all.
In my case, behind the tretex there was 22mm thick tongued wood - Now, my house is only 60 years old after all.
After 8 holes, I can conclude the following:
Hole 1 (after that, I started to seek tips) had an air gap of about 2-3 cm behind followed by mortar.
Hole 2 - mortar directly after the three-tex board.
Hole 3 (same height as hole 1) probably a stud.
Hole 4 - mortar and probably a stone after 2 cm =O(
Hole 5 - same as hole 3 - a stud.
Hole 6 - possibly a cm of air and then brick?
Hole 7 and 8 mortar
I put up two IKEA bars for hanging kitchen utensils, so about 6 cm distance in height and about 1 meter sideways.
Tried to find studs using the tapping method and with a stud finder - wasn't good at hearing and the detector beeped wildly without any structure...
I thought the lady we bought the house from had overdone it a bit with large plugs of 9-10 mm diameter and huge screws of 8-10 cm for CURTAIN RODS - but I'm starting to understand now =O)
We don't have much floor space, so we have (imagined) wall-mounted shelves. There is a piece of interior wall that is solid, but the rest is a mix of - WHAT?? I have tested with the stud finder and it can show a solid wall at a given spot - one meter up and one meter sideways - in the middle of an exterior wall. Then it's quiet a meter sideways, etc. The house is a small "Skånelänga" in Sjöbo, built about a hundred years ago. 79 sqm. Crawling foundation. Clay tiles. Timber framing - my husband says, I completely missed that part. Visible ceiling beams - so maybe I should screw into them from now on, but I think that would be a shame, don't you?
Does anyone have a tip about a website where I can read about houses of this kind?
Hole 1 (after that, I started to seek tips) had an air gap of about 2-3 cm behind followed by mortar.
Hole 2 - mortar directly after the three-tex board.
Hole 3 (same height as hole 1) probably a stud.
Hole 4 - mortar and probably a stone after 2 cm =O(
Hole 5 - same as hole 3 - a stud.
Hole 6 - possibly a cm of air and then brick?
Hole 7 and 8 mortar
I put up two IKEA bars for hanging kitchen utensils, so about 6 cm distance in height and about 1 meter sideways.
Tried to find studs using the tapping method and with a stud finder - wasn't good at hearing and the detector beeped wildly without any structure...
I thought the lady we bought the house from had overdone it a bit with large plugs of 9-10 mm diameter and huge screws of 8-10 cm for CURTAIN RODS - but I'm starting to understand now =O)
We don't have much floor space, so we have (imagined) wall-mounted shelves. There is a piece of interior wall that is solid, but the rest is a mix of - WHAT?? I have tested with the stud finder and it can show a solid wall at a given spot - one meter up and one meter sideways - in the middle of an exterior wall. Then it's quiet a meter sideways, etc. The house is a small "Skånelänga" in Sjöbo, built about a hundred years ago. 79 sqm. Crawling foundation. Clay tiles. Timber framing - my husband says, I completely missed that part. Visible ceiling beams - so maybe I should screw into them from now on, but I think that would be a shame, don't you?
Does anyone have a tip about a website where I can read about houses of this kind?
Tretex only holds for things you can hang on pins, so you have to go into the brick to attach anything. Google, talk to neighbors, talk to the previous owner, or wait for tips from here. Uppreglad tretex doesn't sound very easy to handle unfortunately.
Building conservationist
· 3 512 posts
Walls in old Skåne houses are very difficult to hang anything on other than pictures. The difficulty is primarily due to the material of the walls rather than the timber. If you’re lucky, you might manage to secure it in a brick, but just as often you've drilled into a joint of porous lime mortar or unbaked clay brick. I think you simply need to rethink and aim to furnish with shelves and cabinets that stand on the floor. Another option I have thought about is building a kind of fastening mechanism in wood, which is attached to the ceiling beams or the beam that is usually found at the top of the wall.
If the timber is fresh and doesn’t smell musty, it’s quite a good material for such old houses. Better than drywall.
Those who radically renovate these kinds of old houses often build inner walls of leca, i.e., a house within the house, both insulating and providing stability to old porous walls. But such a thing is only worthwhile if it’s a really dilapidated house.
If the timber is fresh and doesn’t smell musty, it’s quite a good material for such old houses. Better than drywall.
Those who radically renovate these kinds of old houses often build inner walls of leca, i.e., a house within the house, both insulating and providing stability to old porous walls. But such a thing is only worthwhile if it’s a really dilapidated house.
Last edited:
Building conservationist
· 3 512 posts
Saw that you were asking for tips on websites and such.. Great to see people seeking knowledge before they start tearing down! d^_^b
Here are my standard tips. (There are probably more)
Good books:
"Skånelängor: att förstå och bevara ett kulturarv" by Ove Torgny
ISBN 91-38-90281-8 (hb)
"Handbok i sydöstskånsk byggnadsteknik" by Kerstin Barup, Mats Edström
Sydöstra Skånes samarbetskommitté (publisher)
Alternative name: SÖSK
ISBN 91-7260-857-
Good links:
Föreningen Bevis (Byggnadsvård i Skåne)
http://www.bevis.nu/
Föreningen Skånska gårdar
http://www.skanskagardar.se/
Good luck with the house!
Here are my standard tips. (There are probably more)
Good books:
"Skånelängor: att förstå och bevara ett kulturarv" by Ove Torgny
ISBN 91-38-90281-8 (hb)
"Handbok i sydöstskånsk byggnadsteknik" by Kerstin Barup, Mats Edström
Sydöstra Skånes samarbetskommitté (publisher)
Alternative name: SÖSK
ISBN 91-7260-857-
Good links:
Föreningen Bevis (Byggnadsvård i Skåne)
http://www.bevis.nu/
Föreningen Skånska gårdar
http://www.skanskagardar.se/
Good luck with the house!
Thank you sommartorparn!
/Henrietta
/Henrietta