1,917 views ·
2 replies
2k views
2 replies
Where does the tile adhesive end and the filler begin?
Hello!
We are in the process of building a new kitchen in a former living room where we have gotten stuck on how to proceed with the spackling. We will have the area between the upper and lower cabinets tiled, and as far as I understand, you should NOT spackle the areas that will later have tile adhesive.
But how in the world should I do this? I need to get the wall straight in order to install the kitchen cabinets (it's plastered with 13mm plasterboard). These were screwed directly onto old Tretex boards that we kept for various reasons (cable recessing, etc.), and these are now causing the plasterboards to "bulge" in places. We believe there are such large variations that the best solution would be to skim coat where it is worst - but then we come to the issue with the tiles that need to be installed! Where can I stop the spackling to avoid interfering with the tile adhesive, and how should these two "meet"? How thick can the tile adhesive be? Can I use a putty knife to even out the irregularities with adhesive and then apply the final layer and use the notched trowel for the tiling? It needs to be straight, as I said, for both the kitchen cabinets and the tiles.
Sorry....there are a thousand questions when I don't know!
What are your tips?
Grateful for a response
/Sofia
We are in the process of building a new kitchen in a former living room where we have gotten stuck on how to proceed with the spackling. We will have the area between the upper and lower cabinets tiled, and as far as I understand, you should NOT spackle the areas that will later have tile adhesive.
But how in the world should I do this? I need to get the wall straight in order to install the kitchen cabinets (it's plastered with 13mm plasterboard). These were screwed directly onto old Tretex boards that we kept for various reasons (cable recessing, etc.), and these are now causing the plasterboards to "bulge" in places. We believe there are such large variations that the best solution would be to skim coat where it is worst - but then we come to the issue with the tiles that need to be installed! Where can I stop the spackling to avoid interfering with the tile adhesive, and how should these two "meet"? How thick can the tile adhesive be? Can I use a putty knife to even out the irregularities with adhesive and then apply the final layer and use the notched trowel for the tiling? It needs to be straight, as I said, for both the kitchen cabinets and the tiles.
Sorry....there are a thousand questions when I don't know!
What are your tips?
Grateful for a response
/Sofia
Sorry, if the gypsum is bowing, it’s not properly secured with backing. The tretex isn't snug against the underside and not properly screwed in, and you can't screw gypsum into it (screws won't hold in tretex, they pull out). Behind the tiles, there must be a rigid surface, otherwise, it might move, and the grout could crack on you. Normally C/C 300 is used to screw gypsum for tiling; it's likely C/C 600 behind the tretex.
Thanks for the answer! I forgot to write that behind the Tretex we have a standing plank wall at 76mm, but yes... the Tretex probably hasn't been completely flush with it in some places since the plasterboard has sunk inS skutten11 said:Sorry, if the plasterboard is bowing, it's not properly secured with support behind it. The Tretex isn't tight against the substrate and not screwed in correctly, so you can't screw plasterboard onto it (the screw won't hold in Tretex, it will come out). Behind the tiles there has to be a rigid surface, otherwise, it might move and the grout lines could crack. Normally, plasterboard for tiling is screwed at C/C 300, but it's likely C/C 600 behind the Tretex.
Best regards, Sofia
Click here to reply