I'm just about to install some new interior doors and need wedges to support the door frame, but where can I buy wedges?
I'm also going to lay flooring soon and you also need wedges for that, where can I find them?
I'm also going to lay flooring soon and you also need wedges for that, where can I find them?
Cheaper than a box of wedges... http://www.byggahus.se/forum/verkty...-hjaelpmedel-vid-foenster-doerrmontering.html
What type of flooring is going to be installed? For parquet floors, wedges work well, but for thin laminate floors, I find it more convenient to use masonite pieces that aren't as "top-heavy." If you're passing by Ekesiöö in Bromma, they have pre-cut (3.2x45x2400 mm) masonite strips for 6:-/each.
What type of flooring is going to be installed? For parquet floors, wedges work well, but for thin laminate floors, I find it more convenient to use masonite pieces that aren't as "top-heavy." If you're passing by Ekesiöö in Bromma, they have pre-cut (3.2x45x2400 mm) masonite strips for 6:-/each.
The best way to get wedges is to make your own.
I also agree with ACME on using masonite instead of wedges...
However, you can cut your own strips; they don't need to be exact in size.
There are "Starter Kits" for parquet flooring that include a tapping block and wedges.
Keep in mind that if it's so-called, click flooring, meaning the kind you snap together, you shouldn't use anything other than the palm of your hand if there's a gap, as you'll easily damage the surface, (edge dents).
I also agree with ACME on using masonite instead of wedges...
However, you can cut your own strips; they don't need to be exact in size.
There are "Starter Kits" for parquet flooring that include a tapping block and wedges.
Keep in mind that if it's so-called, click flooring, meaning the kind you snap together, you shouldn't use anything other than the palm of your hand if there's a gap, as you'll easily damage the surface, (edge dents).
I looked closer at the door frames I bought and the holes in them are pre-drilled, where about half the depth is drilled with 14mm and then the rest with about 4mm. Unfortunately, the frame screws I bought do not fully go into the pre-drilled holes because the depth is not sufficient.
What should I do now? Drill more? Or just force the frame screw in with strength for the last 5-6 millimeters?
What should I do now? Drill more? Or just force the frame screw in with strength for the last 5-6 millimeters?
They are drilled in this way to give you options when it comes to mounting. If you only use wedges and screws/nails to fasten the frame, you mount it as it is.
If you want to use frame screws, like Programa, you must enlarge the holes with a 14 mm drill bit. There are special frame drill bits that have a 5 mm drill for guidance. If you enlarge the holes when the frame is in place, the 5 mm drill also provides a pre-drilled hole in the right place in the stud. One of these costs about 150-200:-.
If you want to use frame screws, like Programa, you must enlarge the holes with a 14 mm drill bit. There are special frame drill bits that have a 5 mm drill for guidance. If you enlarge the holes when the frame is in place, the 5 mm drill also provides a pre-drilled hole in the right place in the stud. One of these costs about 150-200:-.
There are special frame screws for interior doors, they work excellently. You also don't need to shim - just hold something in between when you screw it in, and it turns out great... (but we usually don't even hold anything in between - it's fine to screw the frame rigidly against the stud and then "adjust back" so it ends up in the middle of the hole...!)
When it comes to floors, I fully agree that masonite is what does the job..!!
When it comes to floors, I fully agree that masonite is what does the job..!!
we simply place a wedge in 2 places on the interior doors to avoid having to adjust them back... the most important thing is the level of the frame... and that is often best adjusted with masonite... if it is needed that is... 
Stefan, you must drill through the frame if you have regular frame screws. (Recommended)
If you don't use frame screws, you can carefully fix in regular wood screws with wedge screws instead. but you can't adjust the frame back with those... which, as mentioned, requires extremely careful fixing and stability... + it takes a heck of a lot of time.
Stefan, you must drill through the frame if you have regular frame screws. (Recommended)
If you don't use frame screws, you can carefully fix in regular wood screws with wedge screws instead. but you can't adjust the frame back with those... which, as mentioned, requires extremely careful fixing and stability... + it takes a heck of a lot of time.
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Yes, well, we've probably done that too at some point - or just wedged a hammer when screwing in the screw... Those screws are damn convenient otherwise...Milkshaken said:yes, we just place a wedge on 2 spots on the interior doors to avoid having to adjust them back... the most important thing is the level on the frame... and that's usually adjusted best with masonite as well... if needed, that is...
"driven between the hammer" is a bit "Boffa boffa" I think .. with flair it goes faster to set and adjust a door in just under ten minutes.... And then it's ready to put on the moldings..
with flair it goes faster to set and adjust a door in just under ten minutes.... And then it's ready to put on the moldings..Faster and faster.. I don't know if you misunderstood me - I'm NOT talking about regular wood screws..
http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_Produkt.aspx?id=27320
Place one side flush against the beam - adjust back so it ends up in the middle..
Then put the level on so it's even - fasten it with the hammer and screw in the other side - done (well, almost done - a few minor adjustments are probably needed too)..
http://www.beijerbygg.se/templates/BB_Produkt.aspx?id=27320
Place one side flush against the beam - adjust back so it ends up in the middle..
Then put the level on so it's even - fasten it with the hammer and screw in the other side - done (well, almost done - a few minor adjustments are probably needed too)..
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No, I'm not talking about regular wood screws either, but frame screws... and you advantageously fix a frame with at least 2 wedges.
I only mentioned wood screws as an example if he can't or doesn't want to drill all the way through.....
I just saw that you're using a different frame screw....
I/We use traditional frame screws, like ESSVE.....
I only mentioned wood screws as an example if he can't or doesn't want to drill all the way through.....
I just saw that you're using a different frame screw....
I/We use traditional frame screws, like ESSVE.....