Wavy skirting board. How to do?

[il_duce]

We might put up beadboard wainscoting by the stairs and hallway. Old house from the turn of the century. A problem has come up that I've been thinking about for a while now. The staircase stringer is quite heavily wavy. How on earth do you attach a baseboard to that? The beadboard will also be a problem! It's hard to make it look nice at the bottom edge if the trim is impossible to solve and you have to go "trimless".

 

[Larsa]

You can cut the beadboard after the stringer. A molding probably won't work, maybe with a plastic molding, but that's not so fun....

 

[spiskrok]

A kvartstav can be bent quite a lot.

 

[corre]

Trim up to the edge of the carriage piece, and if it's painted I would have caulked the gaps and painted an extra layer. No trim in front of the carriage piece then.

 

[Workingclasshero]

Surf a little on wooden boat builders and get some inspiration on steaming the strip to make it bendable.

You can ponder how I got the car valve into the wooden piece; once you understand it, it suddenly becomes a lot less work to attach a bent strip.

 

[Larsa]

It is also more aesthetically pleasing if there aren't "holes" at the bead like there are if you have a strip in front.

I make the base thicker and place the beadboard on top, we cut the beadboard in the profile of the stringer so it follows the stringer. It's not difficult since you can cut the length afterward...

 

[lorens]

You can think about how I got the car valve into the piece of wood, when you understand that it's suddenly much less work to put on a curved strip.

It's awesome how this is done, I've thought about trying it myself sometime in the future!

 

[il_duce]

Thanks for the replies! I will probably go without a trim in the staircase and use latex caulking before painting.

A trim in front of the beadboard would have been a last resort to cover up the sawing at the bottom (which I suspect will be tricky). But now I'm going without a trim, so it won't be a problem

Does anyone have a tip on how to make the cut at the bottom? It would be convenient if I didn't have to experiment. As mentioned, the stringers are wavy and the miter saw doesn't favor curves

 

[Larsa]

Saw with a jigsaw from the backside. First, cut roughly, then place the piece and trace the profile (draw with the pencil along the stringer, possibly with a block in between). Then remove and saw again. It's not particularly difficult or time-consuming.

 

[Hennke85]

Saw with a jigsaw from the backside.

Or buy forward-facing blades so you can saw from the correct side, only cheapskates like Timell insist on cutting from the backside. Besides, I don't think these blades are much more expensive than others.

 

[Larsa]

Or buy reverse blades so you can saw from the correct direction, only penny-pinchers like Timell insist on working from the backside. Besides, I don't think these blades are much more expensive than others.

If you have a low saw, it's easier to saw from underneath (you look from the front). It's then possible to saw with super precision.