26,443 views ·
64 replies
26k views
64 replies
Water damage due to incorrectly mounted balcony
I mean let the roof go all the way down. Then it takes up part of the balcony as it is. There will be a smaller balcony.V varga said:Yes, indeed, water ran "backwards" in the tracks on the plastic and into the wall.
If I understand you correctly, they should never have opened up the roof along the dormer wall, but let the eaves remain all the way to the dormer wall, and then built the balcony on top of the roof? But then the balcony floor would have ended up about 40 cm up on the sliding window....
Use flexitak as a drainage system for the balcony. This is available at REMM AB.
V varga said:Hi
We have made an Attefall extension by building out from an existing dormer. The new dormer section was supposed to have a small balcony on the south side. The builder suggested that the balcony (which is only 70 cm wide) should be supported by the dormer's support beam at the outer end and attached to the house's roof structure where it meets the house wall.
However, this resulted in water damage where rainwater from the roof ran directly down into the house wall under the balcony and gushed onto the wooden floor inside the house. Fortunately, there is not an entire wall section under the balcony but a double door, but the eco-fiber above the double door got wet and the upper door reveal inside was damaged by water.
It turned out they made an insane construction (as the pictures reveal). Drainage from the roof tiles at the balcony attachment was supposed to flow straight down onto the balcony's decking boards, through the gaps, and down onto a polycarbonate sheet they had installed along the entire length of the balcony (with a slight slope), and drain out through a gap on the other balcony end.
But the water instead flowed backward and gushed straight into the open unprotected wall into the eco-fiber (they had placed the balcony and decking boards into the house's core wall about 12 cm (3 of these into the insulation).
The big question now is how to fix it, if it's even possible...the builder doesn't seem to have any acceptable proposal.
As I see it, there are 2 problems:
1. How to secure drainage from the roof when they've removed the entire eaves and gone 12 cm into the core wall?
2. As the pictures show, they have sealed under the balcony with facade boards, so even rain and snow on the balcony must drain securely on their special solution (the polycarbonate sheet) which they have screwed to the edges of the balcony beams and sealed with a lot of silicone. As seen, it is also spliced in one place and there sealed only with silicone. There is an obvious risk that in 2 years, rain, moisture, and ice will break the silicone and the underlying boards will rot, as there is no ventilation or drainage since they screwed the polycarbonate sheet directly to the balcony joists.
My little brain says the whole solution is insane - is there any fix for these 2 problems?
V varga said:Hi
We have made an Attefall extension by building out from an existing dormer. The new dormer section was supposed to have a small balcony on the south side. The builder suggested that the balcony (which is only 70 cm wide) should be supported by the dormer's support beam at the outer end and attached to the house's roof structure where it meets the house wall.
However, this resulted in water damage where rainwater from the roof ran directly down into the house wall under the balcony and gushed onto the wooden floor inside the house. Fortunately, there is not an entire wall section under the balcony but a double door, but the eco-fiber above the double door got wet and the upper door reveal inside was damaged by water.
It turned out they made an insane construction (as the pictures reveal). Drainage from the roof tiles at the balcony attachment was supposed to flow straight down onto the balcony's decking boards, through the gaps, and down onto a polycarbonate sheet they had installed along the entire length of the balcony (with a slight slope), and drain out through a gap on the other balcony end.
But the water instead flowed backward and gushed straight into the open unprotected wall into the eco-fiber (they had placed the balcony and decking boards into the house's core wall about 12 cm (3 of these into the insulation).
The big question now is how to fix it, if it's even possible...the builder doesn't seem to have any acceptable proposal.
As I see it, there are 2 problems:
1. How to secure drainage from the roof when they've removed the entire eaves and gone 12 cm into the core wall?
2. As the pictures show, they have sealed under the balcony with facade boards, so even rain and snow on the balcony must drain securely on their special solution (the polycarbonate sheet) which they have screwed to the edges of the balcony beams and sealed with a lot of silicone. As seen, it is also spliced in one place and there sealed only with silicone. There is an obvious risk that in 2 years, rain, moisture, and ice will break the silicone and the underlying boards will rot, as there is no ventilation or drainage since they screwed the polycarbonate sheet directly to the balcony joists.
My little brain says the whole solution is insane - is there any fix for these 2 problems?
HkhgV varga said:Hi
We have made an Attefall extension by building out from an existing dormer. The new dormer section was supposed to have a small balcony on the south side. The builder suggested that the balcony (which is only 70 cm wide) should be supported by the dormer's support beam at the outer end and attached to the house's roof structure where it meets the house wall.
However, this resulted in water damage where rainwater from the roof ran directly down into the house wall under the balcony and gushed onto the wooden floor inside the house. Fortunately, there is not an entire wall section under the balcony but a double door, but the eco-fiber above the double door got wet and the upper door reveal inside was damaged by water.
It turned out they made an insane construction (as the pictures reveal). Drainage from the roof tiles at the balcony attachment was supposed to flow straight down onto the balcony's decking boards, through the gaps, and down onto a polycarbonate sheet they had installed along the entire length of the balcony (with a slight slope), and drain out through a gap on the other balcony end.
But the water instead flowed backward and gushed straight into the open unprotected wall into the eco-fiber (they had placed the balcony and decking boards into the house's core wall about 12 cm (3 of these into the insulation).
The big question now is how to fix it, if it's even possible...the builder doesn't seem to have any acceptable proposal.
As I see it, there are 2 problems:
1. How to secure drainage from the roof when they've removed the entire eaves and gone 12 cm into the core wall?
2. As the pictures show, they have sealed under the balcony with facade boards, so even rain and snow on the balcony must drain securely on their special solution (the polycarbonate sheet) which they have screwed to the edges of the balcony beams and sealed with a lot of silicone. As seen, it is also spliced in one place and there sealed only with silicone. There is an obvious risk that in 2 years, rain, moisture, and ice will break the silicone and the underlying boards will rot, as there is no ventilation or drainage since they screwed the polycarbonate sheet directly to the balcony joists.
My little brain says the whole solution is insane - is there any fix for these 2 problems?
Not in Stockholm but Skokloster, 60 km west of Stockholm, and yes, it is extremely difficult to find a construction company that wants to take on such a small job out here in the wilderness... we are 45 km from Uppsala and 60 from the big city as said. It was even difficult to get someone for the entire Attefall building, but now to get someone who takes over such a build and fixes a balcony, that's out of the question. I've informed the construction company today that if they don't have access to an experienced Building Engineer and/or Metalworker who can solve this, we will have to find one ourselves and deduct that cost from the invoice later. Even this is not particularly easy, just getting a Building Engineer to come and look at it... it seems all categories in that industry can choose and pick jobs, so why take a tiny job. No, one should have educated themselves as a Building Engineer, electrician, and plumber, and done everything themselves.Appendix said:
Hemmapularen is also on the right track. This is a "risk construction". I would have someone who understands construction take a look at it.
Guessing with the builder will most likely lead to a bad solution.
Moreover, small balconies like these are extremely rarely used. So, I would rather recommend you to eliminate this risk instead of trying many ways to solve it that might not work. Especially with your and the builder's lack of competence.
I need to ask again. Why do you continue working with this unknowledgeable builder? Could it be that you live in Stockholm and it is hard to find builders and even harder to find someone willing to take on a risky project like this?
Most balconies in the country are rarely or never used, especially the type built on top of entrances or extensions. So the wisest thing is to replace it with a small pitched roof. Alternatively, hire a real builder and redo it properly. And even then, it will cause problems and require maintenance. I have three balconies.
One of the many craftsmen we went through was a tinsmith who suddenly disappeared. After three days, I called, and he said he would come immediately. After a week, there was a downpour, and it poured right into a wardrobe—he had stopped in the middle of a valley!
I didn't have the energy to argue with him, either. Found a tinsmith who actually worked instead.
One of the many craftsmen we went through was a tinsmith who suddenly disappeared. After three days, I called, and he said he would come immediately. After a week, there was a downpour, and it poured right into a wardrobe—he had stopped in the middle of a valley!
Metal roofs typically require a minimum slope of around 6 degrees if I'm not mistaken? But perhaps there's enough space underneath? Otherwise, one usually uses felt roofing when the slope is only a few degrees... and as previously mentioned, a high-quality felt roof. A rubber membrane that is fully welded and extends properly behind paneling, etc., all around!
Then normal roof drainage from the tiles, such as gutters, downspouts, etc., to direct away the water masses that come from there!
Then normal roof drainage from the tiles, such as gutters, downspouts, etc., to direct away the water masses that come from there!
Smart alek
· Hallands Län
· 860 posts
Check with someone who installs industrial roofs. We have a balcony/terrace with a 1-degree slope, and there we have double layers of fully welded roofing felt of a more robust kind to ensure it lasts a long time so we don't have to remove the decking on top to inspect the felt. The designer had recommended EPDM membrane as the first layer and then felt on top of that. The roofer dismissed it because felt and rubber move differently, but mainly because the felt welding risked damaging the rubber membrane.
I think you should have continued to look for a contractor who knew what they were doing. Especially after what you saw in your previous thread.V varga said:Not in Stockholm but Skokloster, 6 miles west of Sthlm, and yes, it is extremely difficult to find a construction company that wants to do such a small job out here in the wilderness... we are 45 km from Uppsala and 60 from the big city as mentioned. It was even difficult to get someone for the entire Attefall building, but now to get someone to take over such a project and fix a balcony, you can forget about it. Today, I informed the construction company that if they do not have access to an experienced Structural Engineer and/or Sheet Metal Worker who can solve this, we must find one ourselves and deduct that cost from the invoice later. Even that is not particularly easy, just to get a Structural Engineer to come and look at it... it seems like all categories in that industry can choose and pick jobs, so why take a tiny job. No, one should have trained as a Structural Engineer, electrician, and plumber, and done everything oneself.
Now it seems these ones are trying to work with you for a solution. Do you really want to start arguing about invoices and deducting costs for the suppliers you should have brought in from the start? Don’t you think they might simply say "ok, forget it then. goodbye". And then the tradespeople in the area will know you’re difficult?
Attefallshus provides a simplified procedure, but an extension shouldn’t just be thrown together; I would have hired a sensible architectural firm to access their design and engineering competencies. And then a contractor who can build according to that plan.
As a side note, I went and looked at the Mediterranean balcony constructions this week and there is a very distinct slope away from the house on all new builds (6 degree slope). I had to ask, and the answer was "ahh, it is the winter rains. They destroy walls otherwise". So maybe that’s something to ensure? You can lay decking on top to make it level if you want it like that.
Feel free to write back in a couple of years when this is done, about how much the balcony was used...
I simply think that the real builders didn't want to go to TS. Either TS didn't want to pay, or they thought it was too messy.J Jehu said:Most balconies in the country are rarely or never used, especially the type built above entrances or extensions. So the wisest thing is to replace it with a small pitched roof. Alternatively, hire a real builder and do it over the right way. And even then it will cause problems and require maintenance. I have three balconies.
One of the many craftsmen we've gone through was a roofer who suddenly disappeared. After three days I called, and he said he would come immediately. After a week, there was a downpour, and it ran right into a closet - he had stopped in the middle of a valley!
I couldn't be bothered to argue with him either. Found a roofer that actually worked instead.
Most builders who work with extensions want a structural engineer to have already made all the decisions on how it should look.
TS??? What does that stand for?Appendix said:
OK, It's probably true that "the real" builders didn't want to come... it was too small but still a cumbersome project for traveling to Skokloster. I say it again, you should have trained to be a construction engineer, carpenter, electrician, plumber, and sheet metal worker and take care of the whole job yourself, avoiding the hassle of chasing craftsmen... with constant anxiety and nightmares.buspojken said:
The drip strip under the sliding door is incorrectly installed.
Screwed externally, the joint is not folded and lacks an upturn at the ends.
Have they done the same under all the windows?
Screwed externally, the joint is not folded and lacks an upturn at the ends.
Have they done the same under all the windows?
How do you screw the plate from the inside? It's an approved way to screw, all plates for this purpose sold at the lumberyard also have pre-drilled holes... likewise, you usually don't seal the joints under windows?P Patrik Friberg said:
However, it's bad that they haven't properly bent up the edge, a lot of water will run in there.....