It doesn't matter if it enters the panel or not. You will get damage from melting snow, water splashing up, etc. Normally, you pull up a sheet metal a bit on or inside the wall on all surfaces bordering a plane. I think, but you need to have someone who knows this look at the construction. And the builder is obviously not the one who can contribute knowledge here.
I'm a little curious about how the trusses and pillars were resolved in the other thread, can't you update there?
If it had been me, I would have kicked them out headfirst. Withheld the final payment. Taken a quote from a reputable company on what it costs to fix what is incorrect. Made an agreement with the old company that they cover the cost before any work/repair begins. If they refuse, bring in an inspector to confirm the faults. If they still refuse, then ARN applies.
Regarding the solution to the problem, I think that the only serious solution is to tear away all their inventions with channel plastic, etc. Then lay welded felt that is raised about 20-30 cm on the existing wall (to handle snowmelt). This means you need to loosen the panel on the house and then reattach it. End the panel about 15 cm above the decking. So, you will have a bit of visible welded felt between the balcony and the wall. Welded felt withstands an incredible amount and can practically be used to make a pool. If you or your so-called carpenter haven't welded felt before, you should not attempt it without letting a professional handle it.
Of course, a gutter and a downspout leading to the existing roof of the house to reduce moisture load on the balcony. The balcony should only handle the water that rains on it, nothing more. As someone previously mentioned, balconies are almost always a risk construction.
Good luck. Looking forward to hearing how it went.
Regarding the solution to the problem, I think that the only serious solution is to tear away all their inventions with channel plastic, etc. Then lay welded felt that is raised about 20-30 cm on the existing wall (to handle snowmelt). This means you need to loosen the panel on the house and then reattach it. End the panel about 15 cm above the decking. So, you will have a bit of visible welded felt between the balcony and the wall. Welded felt withstands an incredible amount and can practically be used to make a pool. If you or your so-called carpenter haven't welded felt before, you should not attempt it without letting a professional handle it.
Of course, a gutter and a downspout leading to the existing roof of the house to reduce moisture load on the balcony. The balcony should only handle the water that rains on it, nothing more. As someone previously mentioned, balconies are almost always a risk construction.
Good luck. Looking forward to hearing how it went.
Member
· Västernorrland
· 12 029 posts
See it this way instead, build a roof first. Then make a decking structure that you can walk on that rests on the roof.
I had called the nearest company that has a Construction Engineer who checked it out.
A friend built a gigantic deck with a basement underneath, where they laid both tar paper and ribbed metal sheeting under the decking, and a wicked framework under that for 300mm insulation.
Good luck
A friend built a gigantic deck with a basement underneath, where they laid both tar paper and ribbed metal sheeting under the decking, and a wicked framework under that for 300mm insulation.
Good luck
Interesting, we did a similar extension and we placed stainless steel under the entire terrace with a proper slope and well-folded sheet metal on the house wall. I don't think there are any shortcuts, the sheet metal wasn't free but it works well.
Why choose to have the slope in that direction? I would have preferred the slope to be in the same direction as the dormer's roof and then a gutter on it. Of course, the water from both the roof and the dormer's roof should have its own drainage system. Directing all the water from the dormer and the valley onto the balcony is making an already risky construction even more hazardous.
A contract goes both ways. They have committed a "breach of contract" from the start by claiming to be carpenters and then building without knowledge, which they have evidently done, -you can safely terminate the contract. They would never get far in court.V varga said:
A lawsuit application and a claim sent directly to the enforcement authority for all the expenses you have had with them, -then they have to dispute the case and that's when you take it to court. Also, submit a bankruptcy application because they are running a business without liquidity in the company since they do not have the means to pay your invoices. Additionally, they are performing work without affiliation.
Snickare is not a protected title, so nothing can be claimed regarding that. What kind of work requiring authorization have they performed?D Dr.Per said:
There is no chance that this construction will hold. For roofs transitioning to another roof, there should be a metal transition so that no water can blow in at the joint.
The water damage is either due to water leakage at the plastic sheet or water blowing in through the air gap.
The suggestion is to continue the roof with the same slope under the balcony and then build the balcony over the roof.
The water damage is either due to water leakage at the plastic sheet or water blowing in through the air gap.
The suggestion is to continue the roof with the same slope under the balcony and then build the balcony over the roof.
Yes, quite right, the water ran "backwards" in the grooves on the plastic and down into the wall.L Lars48 said:
If I understand you correctly, they should never have opened up the roof along the dormer wall, but let the eaves remain all the way to the dormer wall, and then built the balcony on top of the roof? But then the balcony floor would have come about 40 cm up on the sliding window.
The new Attefall addition is an extension outward from an existing dormer (in which we have a bathroom and a sauna). The exit to the new dormer part was made by replacing the window in the sauna with a door. The height of the floor in the new dormer extension was therefore already determined by the floor level in the existing dormer. Maybe I should have explained earlier, sorry...
Yes, I ask the same question. It can't just be "must be finished" at any cost.H hempularen said:
I would never continue with a craftsman who does a poor job, even if things are patched up. I would rather wait and get a craftsman who knows what they are doing.
For health's sake.
The DIY enthusiast is also on the right track. This is a "risk construction". I would have someone who knows construction look at it.
Guessing with "the builder" will most likely lead to a poor solution.
Furthermore, small balconies like these are extremely rarely used. So I would rather recommend you eliminate this risk instead of trying to solve it in ways that might not work. Especially with your and the builder's lack of expertise.
I also need to ask again. Why do you continue to work with this inexperienced builder? Could it be that you live in Sthlm and it's hard to find builders and even harder to find someone who wants to build this risky structure?
Guessing with "the builder" will most likely lead to a poor solution.
Furthermore, small balconies like these are extremely rarely used. So I would rather recommend you eliminate this risk instead of trying to solve it in ways that might not work. Especially with your and the builder's lack of expertise.
I also need to ask again. Why do you continue to work with this inexperienced builder? Could it be that you live in Sthlm and it's hard to find builders and even harder to find someone who wants to build this risky structure?