Talked to a guy who works here. He said the only thing to do is to choose as straight as possible and screw together as quickly as possible. Alternatively, buy dried lumber from a finisher.
Talked to a guy who works here. He said the only thing to do is to choose planks as straight as possible and screw them together as quickly as possible. Alternatively, buy dried wood from a carpenter.
As I've said before. Screwing them together doesn't help. Not in the way you should join them.
Anyway, there was nothing from where I was. I went to two hardware stores.
There was a much larger selection of pressure-treated studs. At Byggmax, it also stated that they are planed. However, I didn't see much difference compared to dimension-planed studs. Some of the planed ones already looked a bit warped there.
I see the options as either buying the straightest possible regular studs again but driving them home with open windows or a trailer and then putting them out on the balcony immediately and start assembling them by gluing them together and letting them dry with the parasol base as weight.
You should absolutely not buy some impregnated studs. They are toxic, and above all, they are dripping with moisture = even greater risk of warping when they dry.
Another suggestion. Buy 2 or more shelves of glued laminated pine. Glue these together to get the thickness you want. This will be incredibly stable and won't move at all.
It will probably be another attempt with reglar but to assemble it as quickly as possible. I just need to plan it very carefully so it goes quickly. One question, when I glue them together. Should they just be glued against each other without further ado or should I use dowels or something? I'm thinking it might be difficult to get it completely straight with dowels but... And is it regular wood glue I should use?
And when I have glued them together and they have dried. Do I dare to bring them inside immediately or should they stay out on the balcony under cover to dry for months or what?
Regular white wood glue works fine as long as you won't be using the bench outdoors. I would guess that the jointed beams you're looking at have a slightly lesser tendency to warp. You don't need to use wooden dowels. For it to turn out well, you need proper clamping pressure. Just placing weights on it isn't enough. It's best if you can use three or four clamps. Brush the glue so that it covers the entire surface and doesn't just lay in a line. Then, you should clamp it so that glue seeps out of the joint along its entire length on both sides. You can wipe away what comes out, but when it comes out, you know you've used enough glue.
Or should I take it off and add more glue now? I didn't apply it in a straight line but I didn't brush it out. Nothing came out in the joint... I don't really know if it would ruin or help to take it off now.
Edit: That thing about not screwing perforated plates, why?
Edit 2: I can't really do more than this. I felt that the perforated plates might still be needed since I don't have much weight to keep the boards in place. Please explain why I shouldn't have them if I should remove them.
The perforated plates do no harm where they are. But if the glue joint is worth its name, they do no good either. It looks a bit sparse with clamps. If glue hasn't come out, then the entire surface isn't glued. But there shouldn't be that much load, right? It will probably hold anyway. And if it doesn't, then you know how to do it next time.
The perforated plates don't do any harm where they are. But if the glue joint is worth its name, they don't provide any benefit either. It seems a bit sparse with clamps. Moreover, if glue hasn't seeped out, the entire surface isn't glued. But it shouldn't be under too much stress, right? It will probably hold anyway. And if it doesn't, you'll know how to do it next time.
Stress? I'm currently struggling to prevent the beams from twisting. The shelf will likely handle the load regardless of whether it's glued or not.
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peterwesterlund said:
